Section 5: Shop-Made Safety Accessories; Featherboards - Grizzly G0771Z Manual

SECTION 5: SHOP-MADE SAFETY

Featherboards

Easily made from scrap stock, featherboards
provide an added degree of protection against
kickback, especially when used together with
push sticks. They also maintain pressure on the
workpiece to keep it against the fence or table
while cutting, which makes the operation easier
and safer because the cut can be completed with-
out the operator's hands getting near the blade.
The angled ends and flexibility of the fingers allow
the workpiece to move in only one direction.
Making a Featherboard
This sub-section covers the two basic types of
featherboards: 1) Those secured by clamps, and
2) those secured with the miter slot.
Material Needed for Featherboard
Hardwood ⁄ " x 3" x 10" (Minimum)
3
4
Hardwood ⁄ " x 6" x 28" (Maximum) ..................1
3
4
Additional Material Needed for Mounting
Featherboard in Miter Slot
Hardwood ⁄ " x (Miter Slot Width) x 5" L ..........1
3
8
Wing Nut / "-20 ..................................................1
1
4
Flat Head Screw ⁄ "-20 x 2" ...............................1
1
4
Flat Washer ⁄ "-20..............................................1
1
4
To make a featherboard:
1.
Cut a hardwood board approximately
to size. Length and width of board can vary
according to your design. Most featherboards
are 10"–28" long and 3"–6" wide. Make sure
wood grain runs parallel with length of feath-
erboard, so fingers you will create in Step 3
will bend without breaking.
2.
Cut a 30º angle at one end of board.
-46-
ACCESSORIES
⁄ " thick
3
4
We recommend using a bandsaw for mak-
ing fingers in the next step because it tends
to be safer. A table saw can be used, but it
will over-cut the underside of the ends, pro-
duce a thicker kerf, and require you to stop
the blade half-way through the cut, which
can be dangerous.
3. Make a series of end cuts with the grain
⁄ "– ⁄ " apart and 2"–3" long, as shown in
3 1
8 4
Figure 73 (A). Alternatively, start cuts at 2"-3"
deep, then make them progressively deeper,
as shown in Figure 73 (B).
10" (Minimum)
⁄
3
A
8
2"-3"
B
⁄
3
8
Figure 73. Patterns for featherboards
(top view shown).
IMPORTANT: Cuts made across grain result in
weak fingers that easily break when flexed. When
made correctly, fingers should withstand flexing
from moderate pressure. To test finger flexibility,
push firmly on ends with your thumb. If fingers do
not flex, they are likely too thick (cuts are too far
apart).
Only Steps 1–3 are required to make a
clamp-mounted featherboard. Refer to Page
48 for instructions on clamping.
Model G0771Z (Mfd. Since 01/21)
30°
Kerf
"
⁄ "- ⁄ "
1 1
16 8
2"-3"
Initial Cut
Kerf
⁄ "- ⁄ "
1 1
16 8
"
Progressively
Longer Cuts