Craftsman 113.201892 Owner's Manual page 20

VERTICAL.UP
WELDING
Figure 6
WELD
Figure 9
Use 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods for all vertical-up welds and
start by running practice beads from bottom to top of a
3/16 or I i4-inch plate, tack-welded in a vertical position.
Hold the rod as shown in figure 6, noting that the angle
of the rod is not as steep as for vertical-dawn welding, but
tilted just stlghtly (approximately five degrees) so the tip
ofthe electrode points upward. Sffike and hold a short arc
Until a small amount 0f metal is deposited, then quickly
raise the rod upward with a Wrist movement to increase the
length of the arc at the top of the stroke (fig. 7). As soon
as the metal deposited in the crater has solidified, bring the
rod down :and deposit more metal. Keep repeating this
whipping motion, while gradually moving the rod upward
and toward the plate as the electrode burns off. The length
of the Stroke will depend upon the amount of metal de_
......... posited and the welding current used. Keep the rod in
constant motion :once it has left the crater. The purpose
of a long arc is to prevent any metal from being deposited
except when the rodi_ held at the Crater,;If globules of
molten metal drop from the tlp of the rod when the arc is
lengthened, either the current is too high or the rod has
remained away from the ..... ...... Crater t0o long. Care Should be
taken not to break the:arc at:the :top Of the strokel Donot
deposit too much metal at One time as this wilt Cause the
weld to sag and result: in a high narrow bead undercut
along the sides. Better penetration can be had by the
vertical-up method_ This can be. demonstrated _by joining
two pieces of 3/16-inch metal with abutt weld, using the
whipping motion. Leave agap between the plates and use
a 5/32-inch rod with a fairly high current, cletermined by
experimenting. TEe whipping motion will melt the corners of
the plate and form a pocket in which to deposit the weld
metal Ifig. 8).
Burn the rod in deep so the crater extends through to the
back side. After completing the weld, inspect the back
side for the small bead, which indicates 100_percent pene-
tration. Butt welds on heavier materials should be welded
on both sides:
On materials up to 1/4-inch thick, use the whipping motion
on small single-pass fillet welds for lap and tee-ioints_ Larger
single-pass fillet welds can be made by the whipping motion
with a slight side-to-side weave added and combined with
the up and down movement to make a triangular shaped
weave (fig. 9). This will produce a "shelf" upon which
additional metal is deposited intermitter_flyas the welding
progresses. There should be a slight pause [n the weaving
motion at the toes of the weld to avoid making a bead that
is too convex. Materials 1/4-inch and thicker must be bev-
eled on one or both sides,depending upon the joint.
Practice making a wide bead using a side-to-side weaving
motion with a very slight whipping action at each end to
give the metal at each end a chance to solidify and avoid
undercutting along the sides of the weld (fig. 10). This type
of bead is used on welds that require more than one pass
and is called the finish bead or "wash" pass. Hotd a short
arc, making the bead approximately 3/4-inch wide and
fairly light. Multiple verticai welds may be made as shown
in the series of diagrams, figure 11.
Figure 11
1-12