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RS SAILING 21 Rigging Manual

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Rigging Manual V7
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER

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  • Page 1 Rigging Manual V7 PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    4.18 - Spinnaker bag ..................45 4.19 - Rudder ....................46 4.20 - Preparing the mainsail ................47 4.21 - Battens ....................47 4.22 - Sail care ....................48 4.23 - Adding the Torqeedo ................49 - 54 5 - Using the boat 55 - 69 ..................

  • Page 3: Introduction

    RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in this truly excellent design. The RS 21 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS 21, in a safe manner.

  • Page 4: Specification

    2 - Specification Designer Richards / Whitehouse / RS Sailing Length 6.34m Beam 2.2m Draught 1.38m Displacement 650kg Hull construction Eco-friendly composite Keel Lifting - with bulb Rudder Removeable - composite Mainsail area - Race 16.2m Jib are - Race 8.4m...

  • Page 5: Customer Pack

    3.1 - Components - Customer Pack Part Quantity 40mm block with becket (kicker) 40mm block with fiddle (kicker) 40mm block with fiddle/swivel/fixed cam (jib/main halyard tackle) 45mm wire block (kicker) 30mm block with becket (main/jib halyard hoist) 30mm single swivel block (cunningham/vang) 40mm strap block (mainsheet)

  • Page 6: Components

    3.2 - Components - Rope Pack (Regular) Torqeedo Block tie Torqeedo Uphaul Backstay Part 2 Backstay Part 3 Backstay Control Line Stanchion Back Rest ties Main Halyard Jib Halyard Spinnaker Halyard Vang Control Vang Purchase Halyard Tension (Shockcord) Jib Tension Jib Cunningham Part 2 Jib Cunningham Part 1 Cunningham...

  • Page 7: Initial Commissioning

    Rigging Manual 4. Initial Commissioning PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 8: Stanchions And Guard Rails

    4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Locate the following items: 4 x Stanchions 2 x Guard rails 4 x Guard rail ties Remove the retaining screws from each of the four stanchion bases. Add the 4 stanchions and replace the screws. Note: The guard rail ties differ for the regular and race versions.
  • Page 9 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Attach the guard rail tie onto the D-ring at each end of the guard rail. Standard spec. Race spec. Knot #6 Knot #1 Pass the other ends of the guard rail ties through the hole in the top of the stanchions (in a forward direction for the front stanchions and an aft direction for the aft stanchions).
  • Page 10 4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails Race spec. Remove one screw from the deck eye. Rotate the deck eye to allow you to slip the loop over it. Rotate the deck eye back into place and replace the screw. Pull to adjust...

  • Page 11: Adding The Spinnaker Pole

    4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole The spinnaker pole may already be attached to your boat. If it is already attached you can move straight on to section 4.3. Locate the spinnaker tack line, launch line and 40mm block in the packs. Tack line Launch line 40mm block...
  • Page 12 4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole Pass the aft end of the pole in through the opening at the bow of the boat (You will need to feed the tack line in first). Continue to push the pole into the boat, making sure it passes underneath the webbing strap (feeding the tack line through first).

  • Page 13: Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line

    4.3 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line Knot #2 Knot #3...

  • Page 14: Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line

    4.4 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line Add the launch line as shown. Knot #3 Knot #2...

  • Page 15: Adding The Hoop

    4.5 - Adding the Hoop Your boat may arrive with or without the hoop attached. If the hoop is already attached move straight on to section 4.6. There are 3 screws on each side of the centre console which hold the hoop in place.

  • Page 16: Dressing The Mast - Lowers

    4.6.1 - Dressing the Mast - Lowers Remove the bottle screw from the lowers. Thread the wires through the hole in the spreader bracket. Replace the bottle screw. Tighten until the wire just appears on the inside of the bottle screw. Add the lower part of the bottle screw (fork toggle).

  • Page 17: Dressing The Mast - Spreaders

    4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders To complete this section you will need: • Spreaders x 2 • Shrouds x 2 • Forestay • Backstay • Backstay flicker and 3 x machine screws • Main halyard • Jib halyard •...

  • Page 18: Dressing The Mast - Forestay

    4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders Remove the screw and the front face of the spreader tip. Thread the shroud wire into the gap and replace the front face of the spreader tip and the screw. Repeat for the other shroud and spreader. 4.6.3 - Dressing the Mast - Forestay Attach the forestay to the mast with the T-terminal.

  • Page 19: Dressing The Mast - Backstay

    4.6.4 - Dressing the Mast - Backstay Fit backstay flicker. Add the block and line to the end of the backstay flicker. The length of this line is important. Make sure that it is 150mm. Attach the backstay through the flicker block and terminate it on the pin at the mast head fitting.

  • Page 20: Dressing The Mast - Halyards

    4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Note: There are mouse lines for the halyards already running through the mast. Locate the following items: Main halyard Main halyard shackle Plastic bobble x 2 The main halyard is composed of two lines, a thicker red rope with a loop and a thinner line attached to it.
  • Page 21 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards e) Untie the mouse line, add the plastic Add the main halyard shackle to the other end of the main halyard (the end emerging bobble on the end of the rope and from the top of the mast.) tie knot #4 to stop the bobble from coming off.
  • Page 22 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Pull the mouse line through until the jib halyard emerges from the mast. Untie the mouse line, add the plastic bobble on the end of the main halyard and tie knot #4 stop the bobble from coming off. Add a plastic bobble and snap shackle to the other end of the jib halyard (the end emerging from top of the mast).
  • Page 23 4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Locate the following items in the rigging pack. Spinnaker halyard Snap shackle Fitting the spinnaker halyard is a similar process to the main and jib halyards, except the spinnaker halyard is only composed of a single piece of rope. mouse line Knot #7 The mouse line for the spinnaker halyard emerges...

  • Page 24: Dressing The Mast - Halyards

    4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard around the sheave and through the cleat as shown, and tie knot #3 in the tail. Remember to secure the other end of the spinnaker halyard near the base of the mast. If you are using the club spinnaker, lead the other end of the halyard back down from the head of the mast and pass it through the...

  • Page 25: Stepping The Mast

    4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the mast is stepped.
  • Page 26 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Using some spare line, tie the spinnaker halyard onto the bow stem fitting. This will act as a temporary forestay. With the tallest person at the back, lift the mast up and move it backwards. The back of the mast should be lifted above the mainsheet hoop.
  • Page 27 4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Loosely attach the lowers. Towards bow Walk the mast upright. Pull the spinnaker halyard tight at the cleat to act as a temporary forestay.

  • Page 28: Stepping The Mast

    4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast Attach the forestay and set to base setting for mast rake. You can now remove the spinnaker halyard from the mast stem fitting and attach it near the base of the mast. Attach the shrouds. Take up the tension but don’t make them tight yet.

  • Page 29: Stepping The Mast With The Keel Up

    4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast With the Keel Up To step the mast with the keel up: • Lay the mast in the boat slightly off to one side with the heel at the mast step. • Attach both of the lowers and the one shroud on the same side of the boat as the mast. •...

  • Page 30: Rough Rig Setting

    4.8 - Rough Rig Setting To complete this section you will need a long tape measure and an adjustable spanner. Use the jib halyard to make sure the mast is vertical. Take it from gunwhale to gunwhale and adjust shrouds as required. Sight up the track to see how straight the mast is.
  • Page 31 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting c) Add backstay. Overhand knot forming a loop Hitch Race Regular Knot #1 Overhand knot forming a loop Hitch Regular Race...
  • Page 32 4.8 - Rough Rig Setting Attach one end of your tape measure to the main halyard and hoist it to the top of the mast, keeping the other end in your hand. Take the end of the spinnaker halyard in youir other hand and lead it aft to the top of the transom and pull it tight.

  • Page 33: Rough Rig Setting

    4.8 - Rough Rig Setting Using a rig tension gauge, wind down the cap shrouds and lowers in equilibrium until they reach the numbers shown on this table. Wind Speed Caps Lowers (Knots) 0 - 10 10 - 18 Once you have reached the base settings, add the velcro shroud straps between the shroud and lower bottle screws to prevent them from working loose.

  • Page 34: Adding The Boom

    4.9 - Adding the Boom Add the boom using the clevis pin and split pin. Note that a there is a flat section on the head of the clevis pin which means it can only fit one way round and cannot rotate once fitted.

  • Page 35: Vang

    4.10 - Vang Locate the following items in the rigging pack: Vang purchase regular race version 30mm block Shackle Single block 45mm block Vang control 40mm block version (spliced ends) Double block with becket Locate the black vang purchase line and attach it to one of the shackle from one of the 40mm blocks using knot #6, leaving one end 140mm longer than the other.
  • Page 36 4.10 - Vang Pass the shorter end of the black rope through the Shackle the black rope, double block which you added in step d and shackle it onto block and 30mm block onto the the double block. mast as shown. Regular version Race version Locate the pink vang rope in the pack.

  • Page 37: Mainsheet

    4.11 - Mainsheet Locate the mainsheet in the rope pack. Thread the mainsheet through the 40mm blocks on the boom Pass the tails through the ratchet blocks as shown. and hoop as shown. Pass one end of the mainsheet through the centre console. You can open the hatch in the side to help you pass the rope through.

  • Page 38: Main Halyard Purchase System

    4.12 - Main Halyard Purchase System Locate the main halyard purchase blocks and shackles in the hardware pack. Shackle the double block with cleat onto the aft eye on the port side of the mast. Note: You may need to add the shackle to the block.

  • Page 39: Cunningham

    4.13 - Cunningham Locate the following items in the customer packs. 30mm block 30mm strap block (bottom) Cunningham Cunningham tail (top) Shackle the bottom block onto the middle metal eye on the port side of the mast step. Tie one end of the cunningham control line to the block on the mast step with knot #2 then it through...

  • Page 40: Cunningham

    4.13 - Cunningham Tie the cunningham tail onto the top block (30mm strap block) with knot To use the downhaul, pass the downhaul tail through the cringle on the tack of the sail and tie it off on the hole in the gooseneck fitting.

  • Page 41: Jib Halyard Purchase System

    4.14 - Jib Halyard Purchase System Locate the jib halyard purchase line and blocks. Shackle the double block with cleat onto the middle eye on the port side of the mast. Note: You may need to add the shackle to the block. Locate the block with snap shackle.

  • Page 42: Halyard Elastic Take Up

    4.15 - Halyard Elastic Take Up Locate the halyard elastic take up. knot #3 in one end. Pass the other end through the top block of the main halyard purchase system. Pass the end of the elastic through the boom gooseneck fitting as shown. Pass the end through the centre of the jib halyard purchase block and tie knot #3...

  • Page 43: Jib Tack Line

    4.16 - Jib Tack Line Knot #3 Knot #4 (slots into keyhole on bow fitting.) Knot #2...

  • Page 44: Jib Sheet

    4.17 - Jib Sheet Locate the 2 x 40mm jib clew blocks in the hardware pack. Dismantle the jib clew blocks as shown. Reassemble the jib clew blocks through the ring in the clew of the jib.
  • Page 45 4.17 - Jib Sheet Knot #3 Knot #3...

  • Page 46: Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet

    4.18 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet Add the snap shackle at the mid point of the spinnaker sheet.

  • Page 47: Spinnaker Bag

    4.19 - Spinnaker Bag...

  • Page 48: Rudder

    4.20 - Rudder Lift the rudder into place between the two gudgeons and insert the rudder pin to secure it. You may find you need to grease the pin to get it through. Insert the tiller into the rudder and add the tiller pin. The tiller will prevent the rudder pin from coming out.

  • Page 49: Preparing The Mainsail

    4.21 - Preparing the Mainsail Sail numbers are supplied with each sail. Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers. Unroll your new sail. There are faint lines on the sail to show you where to stick the sail numbers.

  • Page 50: Sail Care

    4.23 - Sail Care Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the Roll from 2nd Batten. head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown) so the top of the battens coincide before starting rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away from sunlight.

  • Page 51: Adding The Torqeedo

    4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Locate the following items: Torqeedo Battery Throttle Battery Throttle Bung cable cable Add the propeller to the motor. Lay the motor on the floor beneath the boat. Pass a rope down through the hole in the console from from above deck.
  • Page 52 4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Use this rope to pull the torqeedo cable up through the hole. Once you have hold of the torqeedo cable above deck you can use this to pull the extrusion up into the hole. Put something underneath the boat to hold the motor in place so you can work on the top part of it without it falling back down.
  • Page 53 4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Bolt the two sides of the handle together, making sure that the pin and sheave locate properly in place. Add the motor lifting line as shown and cleat it off. With the motor in the fully up position, make a mark on the extrusion so you know how far to pull it in when you are on the water.
  • Page 54 4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Remove the forward mainsheet block and jammer base to reveal a hole. Locate the two cables extensions supplied with the Torqeedo. Connect the longer cable extension to the cable which comes from the top of the torqeedo handle.
  • Page 55 4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Remove the hatch in the side of the console. This will reveal a pipe running forward with two mouse lines emerging from it labelled ‘battery’ and ‘throttle’. Attach the other end of the cable (which you posted down the hole in the previous step) to the mouse line labelled ‘battery’, then pull it through from the front hatch.
  • Page 56 4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo Pass the other end down through the hole in the console and connect the other end to the mouse line labelled ‘throttle’ which emerges from the pipe inside the console. Pull it through from the front hatch. Fit the two screws (from below) Attach it to the connection labelled which hold the throttle in place.

  • Page 57: Using The Boat

    Rigging Manual 5. Using the Boat PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 58: Lowering The Keel

    5.1 - Lowering the Keel Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the hatch just to the port side of the keel). Before you lower the keel for the first time use electrical tape to mark a position on the keel hoist that is level with the top of the keel.

  • Page 59: Raising The Keel

    5.2 - Raising the Keel Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the Undo the velcro strap which is holding hatch just to the port side of the keel). the keel down. Shackle the rope from the keel hoist onto the keel.

  • Page 60: Hoisting The Mainsail

    5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above the gooseneck. Shackle the main halyard to the head of the mainsail. Hoist the mainsail by pulling on the line which comes out of the port side of the mast.

  • Page 61: Hoisting The Mainsail

    5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail Pull on the main halyard purchase line until the sail reaches the top of the mast, then cleat it off. There is a pouch on the front edge of the spinnaker bag which can be used to stow the tails of all halyards.

  • Page 62: Outhaul

    5.4 - Outhaul Attach the outhaul to the clew of the sail. Add the clew strap. The outhaul line runs through the inside of the boom and is already attached. Pull on outhaul tension with this line then cleat it off.

  • Page 63: Hoisting The Jib

    5.5 - Hoisting the Jib Hank the luff of the jib onto the forestay. Shackle the jib halyard to the head of the jib. Hoist the jib by pulling on the line which comes out of the starboard side of the mast, just below the level of the gooseneck.

  • Page 64: Motor

    5.6 - Motor Knot #1 Uncleat to lower motor or pull in to raise motor. This gudgeon will lock the motor down. To release push the blue button. Knot #3...
  • Page 65 5.6 - Motor Connect the battery. Uncleat the engine lifting line and lower the engine. Only lower the engine when you are moving at less that 3 knots. You may need to push downwards on the Torqeedo handle to get the engine to drop.

  • Page 66: Motor

    5.6 - Motor Make sure the throttle is set to neutral. Turn on the power. Add kill cord to the throttle. If you remove the kill cord whilst the engine is running, make sure the throttle is set to neutral before you re-attach the kill cord. To lift the motor: •...

  • Page 67: Weed Cutter

    5.7 - Weed Cutter As an optional extra, a built in weed cutter is available which runs through the front of the keel, with a blade that is hidden inside the keel bulb . If you have weed stuck on your keel, pull the rod which emerges from the top of the keel and the blade will run up and down the keel until the weed is removed.

  • Page 68: Storing Sail Bags

    5.8 - Storing Sail Bags Inside the forward hatch there is a loop of rope with a hook on it, which runs around a block on the aft bulkhead. To stow your sail bags, hook them onto this rope and pull on the other end of the rope.

  • Page 69: Lifting The Boat

    5.10 - Lifting the boat There is a lifting eye just aft of the keel which can be used for a single point lift if the keel is attached to the boat. If the boat is to be lifted without the keel attached: •...

  • Page 70: Removing / Adding The Keel

    5.11 - Removing / Adding the Keel To remove the keel with the boat on a crane, first drop the boat down so that the chocks at the top of the keel are accessible. Remove the two chocks from the keel using a 2 x 13mm spanners.

  • Page 71: Bilge Pump

    5.12 - Bilge Pump The bilge pump is located on the starboard cockpit side (just forward of the console). The water exits from a hole behind the rope bag. 5.13 - Mooring the boat When mooring the boat, tie the bow line to the jib tack plate. 5.14 - Antifouling There are faint marks along the waterline approximately every metre.

  • Page 72: Knots

    6 - Knots Knot #1 Knot #2 Knot #3 Knot #4 Knot #5 Knot #6 Knot #1 - Knot on knot Knot #2 - Bowline...

  • Page 73: Knot

    6 - Knots Knot #3 - Figure of eight Knot #4 - Overhand knot Knot #5 - Double sheet bend Knot #6 - Cow hitch...

  • Page 74: Glossary

    7 - Glossary At the back Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat Astern Behind the boat Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water Batten...
  • Page 75 7 - Glossary Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction Capsize...
  • Page 76 7 - Glossary Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing Foils The daggerboard and the rudder Foot The bottom edge of a sail Fore...
  • Page 77 7 - Glossary ‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from, causing the sails to flap ‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib Heel A boat ‘heels’...
  • Page 78 7 - Glossary Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west. They help you measure position and distance on a chart. Leech The back edge of the sail Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the wind is blowing Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind...
  • Page 79 7 - Glossary Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast Meteorology The study of weather forecasting Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object Mylar...
  • Page 80 7 - Glossary Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to trail behind a vehicle Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in...
  • Page 81 7 - Glossary Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents Starboard.

  • Page 82: Glossary

    7 - Glossary ‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be in motion Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing...

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