RS SAILING RS Quest Rigging Manual
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RS SAILING RS Quest Rigging Manual

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Rigging Manual V4

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Summary of Contents for RS SAILING RS Quest

  • Page 1 Rigging Manual V4...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Contents 1. Components ......................1-6 1.1 - Spars ..........................1 1.2 - Rudder pack ........................1 1.3 - Rigging pack ........................2 1.4 - Rope pack ........................3 1.5 - Asymmetrical spinnaker pack ..................4 1.6 - Symmetrical spinnaker pack ..................5 1.7 - Asymmetrical spinnaker rope pack ................6 1.8 - Symmetrical spinnaker rope pack ..................

  • Page 3: Components

    1.1 - Spars QUANTITY COMPONENT Lower mast Spreader Spreader end Clevis pin Split ring Upper mast Boom and gnav 1 (optional) Spinnaker pole 1 (optional) Bowsprit 1.2 - Rudder pack QUANTITY COMPONENT Rudder Tiller Tiller extension Screws...

  • Page 4: Rigging Pack

    1.3 - Rigging Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT Shroud eye bolts Shroud recess bars Plastic bobble (jib halyard) Shroud adjuster plate 30mm block (jib halyard) 40mm block with becket (mainsheet) Forestay Shrouds Shroud vernier covers April 2017 onwards...

  • Page 5: Rope Pack

    1.4 - Rope Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT Jib halyard Main halyard Mainsheet strop Jibsheet Mainsheet Reefing line Cunningham (downhaul) Outhaul...

  • Page 6: Asymmetrical Spinnaker Pack

    1.5 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT M5 X 8mm bolt M4 x 25mm bolt Metal ring Plastic bobble Metal eyelet Cleat Cleat base Bow turning block M4 x 25mm bolt M4 x 12mm bolt 30mm block Ratchet block 30mm block with shackle, spring and eyelet 30mm block with shackle (Spinnaker halyard) Spinnaker halyard takeup elastic...

  • Page 7: Symmetrical Spinnaker Pack

    1.6 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT M5 X 8mm bolt M4 x 25mm bolt M5 x 35mm bolt Size 8 x 3/4” pan head screws Size 10 x 1” pan head screws Large cleat Cleat Cleat base Metal eyelet Large metal eyelet Ratchet block 30mm block with shackle, spring and eyelet...

  • Page 8: Asymmetrical Spinnaker Rope Pack

    1.7 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Rope Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT Spinnaker sock elastic tie Spinnaker takeup elastic Spinnaker sheet Spinnaker halyard 1.8 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Rope Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT Spinnaker sock elastic tie Spinnaker takeup elastic Spinnaker sheet Spinnaker halyard Twinning line 1.9 - Foredeck Pack QUANTITY COMPONENT...

  • Page 9: Introduction

    RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in this truly excellent design. The RS Quest is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic sailability and performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS Quest, in a safe manner.

  • Page 10: Preparation

    3 - Preparation Your RS Quest comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools: • Pliers or a shackle key • Small, flat-bladed screw driver •...

  • Page 11: Hull

    Rigging Guide 4 - Hull PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 12: Toestraps

    4.1 - Toestraps Start by attaching the toestraps to the thwart across the middle of the cockpit. To do this you will need a pozidrive screwdriver. Make sure you attach the toestraps the right way round. The ends with the webbing loop attach to the thwart. The ends with the buckle DO NOT attach to the thwart.

  • Page 13: Shroud Eye Bolts

    4.1 - Toestraps You can now attach the two forward toestrap ends and one aft toestrap end to the toestrap retainers using the buckle. There are two elastics emerging from the track on the mast support beam. Tie one of these elastics to each of the front toestraps through the webbing loop behind the buckle.

  • Page 14: Asymmetrical Spinnaker Fittings

    4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker fittings. If you have purchased the asymmetric spinnaker pack (which is available as an option), there are a number of fittings that must be added before you can rig the boat. To complete this section you will need: •Asymmetric spinnaker kit •...
  • Page 15 4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker fittings. Attach the spinnaker halyard cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided. Make sure cleat opens towards the stern of the boat. If overtightened the jaws may not close properly. e) Spinnaker Halyard Block Remove the plastic plugs from the next set of holes. Screw a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.
  • Page 16 4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker fittings. Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on the port side of the cockpit. h) Spinnaker Retrieval Block Screw a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided. i) Spinnaker pole outhaul block Remove the two black plastic plugs which are just to the port side of the front end of the spinnaker pole channel.
  • Page 17 4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker fittings. Add the turning block using the screws provided. M4 x 12mm Pozi head M4 x 25mm Pozi head k) Tack Line Eyelet Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes in the channel that runs forwards from in front of the centreboard case.
  • Page 18 4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker fittings. n) Rigging the Tack Line Make sure that the bowsprit is fully extended. boats built before April 2017 boats built after April 2017 (pole is 1.65m long) (pole is 1.34m long) Block A Block A Tack line Tack line Keeping the bowsprit fully extended, pull the tack line...

  • Page 19: Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings

    4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings. If you have purchased the symmetrical spinnaker pack (which is available as an option), there are a number of fittings that must be added before you can rig the boat. It is easiest to do this before attaching the foredeck. To complete this section you will need: •Symmetrical spinnaker kit •...
  • Page 20 4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings. Attach the spinnaker halyard cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided. Make sure cleat opens towards the stern of the boat. If overtightened the jaws may not close properly. e) Spinnaker Front Halyard Block Remove the plastic plugs from the next set of holes forward.
  • Page 21 4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings. g) Spinnaker Retrieval Block Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on the port side of the cockpit. Screw a 30mm block from the symmetrical spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided. i) Twinning line cleat Remove the two black plastic plugs from on top of the gunwhale just inboard of the shroud eye...
  • Page 22 4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings. Attach the cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided. Make sure cleat opens into the boat. If overtightened the jaws may not close properly. Repeat on the other side of the boat. k) Spinnaker Sheet cleat Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes in the recess half way along the gunwale on both sides of the boat.
  • Page 23 4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings. Remove the plastic caps just further inside the boat from the cleats you just added. Repeat on the other side of the boat. Add a metal eyelet from the symmetrical spinnaker kit using the M5 x 8mm bolts provided. Repeat on the other side of the boat.

  • Page 24: Adding The Spinnaker Sock

    4.5 - Adding the Spinnaker Sock Remove the two screws and washers from inside the spinnaker chute. Add the screws through the tongue of the spinnaker sock back into the holes that they came from. Slide the port side of the front edge of the spinnaker sock into the opening of the track on the tack bar.
  • Page 25 4.5 - Adding the Spinnaker Sock Make sure the port side is fully inserted into the track and then insert the starboard side into the track opening. This can be a little tricky as you will need to bend it back on itself to get to the opening, but as long as the starboard side is fully inserted first it shouldn’t be too hard.

  • Page 26: Foredeck

    Rigging Guide 5 - Foredeck To complete this section you will need: • The foredeck • A pozidrive screwdriver PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER Water ingress: The four small compartments are not water tight water will enter and drain. The large compartment may also allow water ingress in the event of a capsize.

  • Page 27: Attaching The Foredeck

    5.1 - Attaching the Foredeck If you have purchased the foredeck, it will not come attached to the boat. You will have to add it yourself. It is much easier to do this after you have fitted out and rigged the boat for the first time as many of the fittings are difficult to access with the foredeck attached.
  • Page 28 5.1 - Attaching the Foredeck Pick up the foredeck and locate this into the tack bar making the spigots go into the holes. Rotate the foredeck down into position. Open the two hatches on the sides of the foredeck. At the base of the two compartments you will see a hole.

  • Page 29: Adjusting The Trolley For Extra Foredeck Weight

    5.2 - Adjusting the trolley for extra foredeck weight Adding the foredeck will increase the weight of the Quest and will move the centre of gravity forward. To reduce the handling weight it is possible to adjust the front support of the trolley. Use a spanner to extend the front support. This will push the boat further back in the trolley and will aid manoeuvrability.

  • Page 30: Mast

    Rigging Guide 6 - Mast To complete this section you will need: • The mast and rigging packs • A flat-bladed screw driver • PVC electrical tape • 8mm (or small adjustable) spanner PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 31: Jointing The Mast Sections

    6.1 - Joining the Mast Sections The Quest mast comes in two sections which must be slotted together before stepping the mast. Ensure that the sleeve and the inside of the tube are clean and free of sand. Quest rigs are designed with a tight engineering tolerance on the sleeve. Ensure the tubes are aligned and push together.

  • Page 32: Attaching The Shrouds

    The end cap can also be rotated so that the shroud can be positioned at either the forward or aft position of the spreader end (see diagram above). For the RS Quest the end cap should hold the shroud in the aft position.

  • Page 33: Main Halyard

    6.5 - Main Halyard Feed one end of the main halyard into the track on the back of the mast through the opening above the gooseneck joint. Feed the main halyard the whole way up the mast, through the masthead fitting, around the turning block and back down the mast.

  • Page 34: Forestay

    6.6 - Jib Halyard Pass one end of the jib halyard through the cleat on the port side of the mast above the gnav bracket. Tie off both ends of the jib halyard at the bottom of the mast so that they are easily accessible once the mast is stepped in the boat.

  • Page 35: Spinnaker Halyard Mast Turning Blocks

    6.8 - Spinnaker Halyard Takeup Elastic Feed the other end of the spinnaker halyard takeaway elastic through the small ring on the front of the mast below the eyelet that the jib halyard block is attached to. Pass the end on the spinnaker halyard takeaway elastic down the mast, through the spinnaker pole eye on the front of the mast (if fitted) and tie it through the hole in the mast step heel.
  • Page 36 6.9 - Spinnaker Halyard Mast Turning Blocks Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard down the mast and through the metal ring on the end of the takeaway elastic. Add the plastic bobble on the end. When rigged, this end will attach to the head of the spinnaker.

  • Page 37: Masthead Float

    6.10 - Attaching the Masthead Float (optional) If you have purchased the optional masthead float, you will have to fit it before stepping the mast in the boat. Attach the bracket to the masthead float using the four bolts provided. Slide the masthead float onto the mast with one plastic mounting plate on either side.

  • Page 38: Shrouds

    6.11 - Shrouds BEFORE PICKING UP THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES Before stepping the mast, familiarise yourself with how the “foot” (bottom end) of the mast will fit into the “step” (fitted to the boat). Locate the mast foot in the mast step and lay the mast in the boat.
  • Page 39 6.11 - Shrouds If using hole #4,5 or 6 use the M5 bolt and Nyloc in the top hole of the Vernier. Make sure the shroud passes outside the bolt. If using hole 2 or 3 use of the bolt is not required Ensure that the thread goes well into the nyloc of the nut, but do not bend the Vernier.

  • Page 40: Stepping The Mast

    6.12 - Stepping the Mast Ensure that the forestay is fitted correctly and loose at the lower end. Ensure all 3 halyards are tied to the pole ring on the front of the mast. BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or “stepped”.

  • Page 41: Stepping The Mast

    6.12 - Stepping the Mast Pass the mast, foot first, into the boat over the stern so that the foot lines up with the mast step. See Fig.1 One person inside the boat should line the foot of the mast up correctly with the mast step so that the pins on either side slot into the grooves of the mast step.

  • Page 42: Forestay

    6.13 - Forestay One person should continue to hold the mast upright while the other attaches the forestay to the foredeck eye with the clevis pin and split ring provided. Ensure the tensioning lever points forwards. Release when not in use. PVC tape around the ring to prevent pre April 2017 it catching on the sails.

  • Page 43: Boom

    Rigging Guide 7 - Boom PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 44: Fitting The Boom

    7.1 - Fitting the boom To complete this section, you will need: • The boom • The gnav bar Connect the gnav bar to the slider at the front end of the boom. Open the drop nose pin then connect the front of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast.

  • Page 45: Gnav Control Line

    7.2 - Gnav control line Feed the gnav control line down through the swivel block and through the cleat below the boom. Tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope TOP TIP You can keep the boom up by hoisting with the mainsheet at the rear of the boom.

  • Page 46: Mainsheet

    7.3 - Rigging The Mainsheet Rigging the Mainsheet Strop Find the 40mm block with a becket and the mainsheet strop from the rope pack. Take the mainsheet strop and fold it in half to form a loop. Pass this loop through the base of the block. Pass the two tails of the rope back through the loop, making sure the block is in the middle.
  • Page 47 7.3 - Rigging The Mainsheet Tie one end of the mainsheet to the becket on the mainsheet block (with a bowline) then thread through the blocks as shown. Tie a second knot in the mainsheet to prevent the boom from hitting the shrouds.

  • Page 48: Sails

    Rigging Guide 8 - Mainsail and Jib PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 49: Preparing The Sails

    8.1 Preparing the Sails. Sail numbers should be supplied with each sail. Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers. Unroll your new sail. Stick the sail numbers on sail by following the measurements below. NUMBERS MUST BE PLACED HIGHER ON THE STARBOARD SIDE.

  • Page 50: Battens

    8.1 Preparing the Sails. There are also faint lines on the sail to show where to place the national letters (although these are optional and not supplied as standard.) 8.2 Battens • Batten key should be on clew of sail. Check the inboard ends of the battens are positively located in the inboard plastic end fitting.

  • Page 51: Hoisting The Jib

    Note: Boats build from April 2017 onwards will have a new style of jib shackle. The RS Quest Upgrade Pack contains the new shackle and everything else needed to bring older boats up to current spec.
  • Page 52 8.4 - Hoisting The Jib Attach the tack of the jib to the furler unit. Boats built before April 2017 Boats built April 2017 onwards or older boats with the upgrade pack fitted: Fit the shackle on the furler unit through the cringle on the tack of the jib.

  • Page 53: Hoisting The Jib

    8.4 - Hoisting The Jib Lead one end of the jib sheet along the side of the boat and then down to the jib fairlead and cleat. Thread it through the fairlead and through the jib cleat. Repeat with the other end of the jib sheet, making sure they pass either side of the mast.

  • Page 54: Outhaul

    8.5 - Outhaul Slide the mainsail clew slug into the track on the top of the boom. Attach one end of the outhaul line to the eye on the end of the boom (on top) with a knot-on-knot. Pass the other end of the outhaul line through the cringle on the clew of the mainsail.

  • Page 55: Hoisting The Mainsail

    8.6 - Hoisting the Mainsail To hoist the mainsail: Put the boat head to wind. a) Unroll the mainsail. b) Take the end of the main halyard that emerges from the top of the mast, and tie it to the head of the mainsail, using a knot-on-knot.

  • Page 56: Hoisting The Mainsail

    8.6 - Hoisting the Mainsail When the sail reaches the top of the mast, cleat off the main halyard in the upper cleat on the Starboard side of the mast. Tie a figure-of-eight knot in the tail. Insert the slug on the tack of the mainsail into the track on the mast and pull the tack of the sail down towards the boom.

  • Page 57: Downhaul

    8.8 - Mainsail tack strap From April 2017, new boats will be provided with a mainsail tack strap as standard. For older boats, the RS Quest Upgrade Pack will provide you with everything you need to bring your boat up to the newest spec.

  • Page 58: Gennaker/Spinnaker

    Rigging Guide 9 - Gennaker/Spinnaker PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 59: Rigging The Asymmetric Spinnaker

    9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker Before stepping the mast you should have attached the spinnaker halyard block to the mast and threaded the spinnaker halyard through it. You should now have two ends of the spinnaker halyard at deck level. Take the end of the spinnaker halyard without the plastic bobble on it and feed it down the port side of the mast and through the foredeck (if attached) past the mast step.
  • Page 60 9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard back towards the cockpit (again passing underneath the spinnaker sock). Pass it through the cleat and then the block just to the port side of the centreboard case. These two blocks must not touch when the pole is fully extended.
  • Page 61 9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker Attach the tack of the spinnaker to the line coming from the end of bowsprit. Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with the plastic bobble on it to the head of the spinnaker. Asymmetric Spinnaker System Make sure these blocks do not touch when the pole is fully extended.
  • Page 62 9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker Shackle the two ratchet blocks from the asymmetric spinnaker pack to the shroud eye bolts on either side of the boat. The shackle should be attached forward of where the shroud adjuster attaches. Find the middle of the gennaker sheet and double it over to form a loop. Pass this loop through the eyelet at the clew of the gennaker.

  • Page 63: Rigging The Symmetrical Spinnaker

    9.2 - Rigging the Symmetrical Spinnaker. Before stepping the mast you should have attached the spinnaker halyard block to the mast and threaded the spinnaker halyard through it. You should now have two ends of the spinnaker halyard at deck level. Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with the plastic bobble on it to the head of the spinnaker.
  • Page 64 9.2 - Rigging the Symmetrical Spinnaker. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the cleat and then through the block just to the port side of the centreboard case. Pass the spinnaker halyard through the block at the aft end of the spinnaker sock and then through the spinnaker sock towards the bow.
  • Page 65 Symmetrical Spinnaker Halyard/Retrieval Line...
  • Page 66 Symmetrical Spinnaker System Pole uphaul/downhaul Pole uphaul/downhaul should go between the pole open line and the pole. This will keep the pole attached to the boat in the event of capsize. Spinnaker sheet Retrieval line Twinning line g) Spinnaker pole set up Put the spinnaker pole between the middle two knots of the yellow uphaul/downhaul and attach the inboard end to the eye on the front of the mast.

  • Page 67: Spinnaker Pole

    9.3 - Spinnaker pole. Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on each side of the boom near to the gooseneck joint. Add one metal eyelet (from the symmetrical spinnaker pack) on each side using the size 10 x 1” pan head screws provided. Remove the plastic endcap from the track on the underside of the boom.
  • Page 68 9.3 - Spinnaker pole. Slide the small metal eyelet along the track on the underside of the boom and line it up with the holes just before the aft mainsheet block. Screw it in using the size 10 x 1” pan head screws provided.

  • Page 69: Spinnaker Pole

    9.3 - Spinnaker pole. Pass one end of the pole retainer wire through the small metal eyelet so that the wire is half way through. You might need to loosen the screws slightly to allow this to pass. Attach the two ends of the pole retainer wire to the boom using the size 8 x 3/4”...

  • Page 70: Foils

    Rigging Guide 10 - Foils To complete this section you will need: • The rudder pack • A large flat-bladed screw driver PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 71: Rudder

    10.1 - Rudder In the rudder pack you will find the rudder, tiller, tiller extension and two small flathead screws. Insert the tiller into the stock. Line up the holes, making sure that the tiller extension joint is on the top of the tiller, Then attach using the screws provided.

  • Page 72: Centreboard

    10.1 - Rudder To pull the rudder up - 1. Lift the tiller slightly to unlock the blade. 2. Pull towards you (into the boat) until the blade reaches it’s maximum up position. 3. Push the tiller gently down to hook over the top of the stock. Do not paddle with the rudder half up.

  • Page 73: Reefing

    Rigging Guide 11 - Reefing PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...

  • Page 74: Rigging The Reefing Line

    11.1 - Rigging your reefing line. Reefing enables the less-experienced or younger sailor to continue sailing in stronger winds. Please follow the instructions for reefing, ensuring that the reefing line is threaded the correct way through the mainsail. Tie one end of the reefing line to the eyelet on the end of the boom (on top) with a bowline.

  • Page 75: Reefing The Mainsail

    11.2 - Reefing the mainsail One person may reef the mainsail while sailing on a close reach, sails eased, on a starboard tack. Make sure you are in plenty of clear water while reefing. Ease the main halyard. Pull the reefing line tight. Make sure the reefing clew slug is inserted into the track on the mast.
  • Page 76 Note: From April 2017, new boats will be provided with a different hook which makes this step easier. The new style of hook is included in the RS Quest Upgrade Pack. Re-tension the main halyard and cleat it off. Use the second pouch on the mainsail for the main halyard tail.

  • Page 77: Outboard Bracket

    Rigging Guide 12 - Outboard bracket PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 78 12 - Outboard Bracket The optional outboard bracket pack contains: Outboard bracket Pintle Bolts, nuts and Eye bolts x 2 washers x 4 First bolt the pintle to the outboard bracket through the second and third row of holes as shown. The outboard bracket is universal and can be set up in different ways for different RS boats, so it is important that you assemble it correctly or it will not fit the Quest.
  • Page 79 12 - Outboard Bracket If you have assembled the bracket correctly, the bottom two holes on the outboard bracket should now line up with two threaded inserts on the aft face of the transom. Insert the two eye bolts and tighten by hand. You are now ready to attach an outboard motor to the Quest.

  • Page 80: Sailing Hints

    Rigging Guide 13 - Sailing Hints PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER...
  • Page 81 13 - Sailing Hints 13.1 Introduction The RS Quest is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack confidence or feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can be recommended.
  • Page 82 13 - Sailing Hints 13.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the mainsail and jib.
  • Page 83 13 - Sailing Hints The gennaker halyard pulls the bowsprit out at the same time – when the gennaker is hoisted, you are ready to go. The crew, or the helm if sailing singlehanded, should now pull gently on the leeward gennaker sheet until the gennaker has filled. Gennakers may be effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach so, to get downwind, one should become adept at gybing.
  • Page 84 13 - Sailing Hints 13.7 - Using the Symmetrical Spinnaker As with the gennaker, it is best to first sail with the spinnaker on a quiet day. Hoisting- Bear away (turn downwind) until the boat is almost on a run. If on starboard tack unhook the pole from the boom.
  • Page 85 13.8 - Three essential knots Bowline The bowline is a reliable knot used for tying a loop in rope. It is extremely strong when under load, and unties easily once free of load. Some people use the rhyme “the rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree, and back down the hole”...
  • Page 86 Knot-on-knot A ‘knot-on-knot’ is useful for tying the end of a rope to a sail or a fitting, and is particularly reliable due to the manner in which the rope binds upon itself. Tie a single overhand knot in the end of the rope.

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