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AJS G2 Servise Manual

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TWO STROKES & TUNING
T W O - S T R O K E
H I G H
P E R F O R M A N C E
E N G I N E
TWO-STROKE EXHAUST
D E S I G N & T U N I N G
SYSTEMS
By World famous engine designer
Full details on how to calculate design
Bossaglia w h o was responsible for
and make competition exhaust systems.
most of the Italian rotary valve kart
55p
engines including Komets and Parillas
TWO-STROKE PORTS FOR
from the very first—the V11 to the K89.
227 pages packed with information
POWER
including : Characteristics and types of
Read how to calculate and design the
two-stroke motors. Multi-cylinder
right port timing for your requirements.
55p
engines, Fuel, Quantity of air necessary
for combustion. Determining the power,
TWO-STROKE
The Pressure Volume diagram,
A N D IGNITION
Roy Bacon's third book on racing two
Performance, The operation of the
crank, Balance, The Stroke/bore ratio,
strokes. Vital information on carburation
Third port induction, Induction through
& ignition.
valves, Blade type valves, Cylindrical
55p
rotary valves, Rotating disc valves,
ROTARY VALVE TWO-STROKE
Transfer and scavenging w i t h transverse
KART ENGINES
flow, tangential flow, uni-directional
All about 100cc kart engines. Includes
flow, Counter-flow scavenging,
Arisco, B.M., Corsair, Famrel, Komet,
Position of the ports,
Parilla, Petry, Saetta, Starr, Basic
Bi-metal cylinders, Cylinders w i t h
preparation, using Bleepers,
chromed bore, The piston, The gudgeon
Transistorised Ignition, Tillotson carbs.
pin, The piston rings, Constructional
£1.10
ideas for the piston, The head, The
IMPROVING TWO STROKE
crankcase, The crankshaft, Modification
ENGINE
of the crank shaft assembly, Modification
Villiers, Maico, Vespa, Marcelle,
of cylinder, piston and head, The
Zundapp, Itom, DKW, Lambretta.
carburettor, Fuel pumps, Carburation
85p
adjustments, Fuel injection, The magneto
The sparking plug, Ignition timing,
Electronic ignition, Lubrication,
Exhaust System, Mufflers, Exhaust
BUILDING KARTS
system for multi-cylinder engines,
Exhaust silencers, Test procedure,
KARTING FOR SCHOOLS &
Examples of modifications.
YOUTH GROUPS
£4.35 (incl. insurance)
Ref 290
Organising, driving and building
low-cost karts. Forming clubs.
ABOUT KART RACING
90p
S T A R T I N G
K A R T I N G
JAVELIN SET No. 1
H o w to start the sport explained, details
Details and drawings to build a low
of classes, location of tracks. British
price kart without a tube bender.
clubs and addresses. Where to buy
Suitable for 2 or 4-stroke engines
karts, engines fr accessories. 4th Edn.
without gearbox, max 5 hp & 40 lbs for
50p Ref 286
Cadet racing, fun and driver training.
G O I N G
K A R T I N G
Bolted-construction.
Covers every aspect of karting, h o w to
50p Ref 270
buy your kart and engine, racing on
CADET SET No. 3
motor tracks, etc. 4th Edn.
Details and drawings to make a fun kart
£ 1 . 4 5 Ref 2 6 6
without a tube bender. Suitable for 2 or
R.A.C. K A R T REGS 1974
4 stroke engines without a gearbox up to
All the rules and regulations governing
5 hp and weighing up to 40 lbs. New
drivers, organisers, tracks, karts and
edition provides option of bolted or
engines. British calendar of events,
welded construction.
club addresses and list of tracks.
Any parts can be purchased if required.
50p Ref 130
£1.10 Ref 293
L O D G E M A R K
P R E S S
BANK HOUSE, SUMMERHILL, CHISLEHURST,
KENT BR7 5RD, ENGLAND
Reprinted in Belgium
Ref 252
Available again March
Ref 253.
CARBURATION
Ref 281
Ref 288
PERFORMANCE
Ref 135
Ref 292
L T D
SERVICE AND OVERHAUL MANUAL
FOR THE
AJS & MATCHLESS
SINGLE MOTORCYCLES
by
F. NEILL
Covering 1958 to 1964 Lightweight 250 c.c. and 350 c.c.
models G2 G2S G2CS G2CSR 14 14S 14CS 14CSR
G5 8 and 1957 to 1966 Heavyweight 350 c.c., 500 c.c.
and 600 c.c. models G3 G3C G3S G3LS G3LCS G80
G80S G80CS TCS
16 16S 16C 16CS 16MS
16MCS 18 18S 18CS
16MC

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  • Page 1 Covering 1958 to 1964 Lightweight 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. low-cost karts. Forming clubs. ABOUT KART RACING Ref 292 models G2 G2S G2CS G2CSR 14 14S 14CS 14CSR S T A R T I N G K A R T I N G JAVELIN SET No. 1 G5 8 and 1957 to 1966 Heavyweight 350 c.c., 500 c.c.
  • Page 4 Technical details, together with working instructions given in ensuing chapters are solely confined to the single cylinder A.J.S. and Matchless models, which are similar regarding design, and identified by the petrol tank emblems and colour finish. The engine design of the heavyweight single cylinder models is basically identical since 1948, and in consequence the engine assembly instructions—in the main—apply to all models made from 1948 to 1966.
  • Page 5 SERVICE AND OVERHAUL MANUAL FOR THE AJS & MATCHLESS SINGLE MOTORCYCLES F. NEILL S.B.N. 850770203 EDITOR H. A. NIMMO © LODGEMARK PRESS LIMITED Bank House, Susan Wood, Chislehurst Kent BR7 5RD, England...

  • Page 6: Table Of Contents

    Contents page … … … … Technical data … … … Engine design changes … … … … … Lubrication Recommended lubricants … … … … … … Periodical maintenance … … … … Engine servicing … … … … Engine overhaul …...

  • Page 7: Technical Data

    TECHNICAL DATA 250 c.c. G2 and G2S Models Identity On the crankcase near engine Engine Number plate cowling. On right hand side of frame head Frame Number lug. Cylinder Bore 69,85 mm. Stroke 64.84 mm. Cubic Capacity 248.5 c.c. (15.2 cu. ins.)
  • Page 8 Sprocket Sizes Engine 22 teeth Gear box 18 teeth Clutch 46 teeth Rear Wheel 55 teeth Chain Sizes Duplex .315 x .638" (72 links) Front Rear ½" x .305" (124 links) Carburettor Type 389/82 (18" bore) Main jet Size 200 Size 30 Pilot jet Throttle slide...
  • Page 9 Chain Sizes a" x .225" (73 links) Front chain ½" x .305" (125 links) Rear chain Gear Ratios Internal Ratios 1 to 1 1.30 to 1 Third Second 1.85 to 1 2.92 to 1 First Actual Ratios 6.89 to 1 8.96 to 1 Third 12.75 to 1...
  • Page 10 Piston Size Skirt diameter (taken at right angle to gudgeon pin top of the skirt). High limit 2.8286" Low limit 2.8276" Piston Rings Compression rings Diameter 72 mm. Width " Radial Thickness .151"—.109" Scraper ring Diameter 72 mm. E " Width Radial Thickness .109"—.101"...
  • Page 11 Con rod diameter high 1.7037" 1.7035" high 1.23075" Crank pin diameter 1.20350" Crank pin rollers ¼" x ¼"—30 Valve spring free Length " Valve spring wire diameter .168" 1" x 2¼" x ¾" Drive side bearing 1" x 2¼" x s" Timing side bush diameter—...
  • Page 12 Valve spring wire diameter .168" FOR OTHER DIMENSIONS REFER TO 350 c.c. LONGSTROKE Carburettor Type 389/1 Bore size 1E" Main jet 250 (no air filter) Slide 3½ Pilot jet Needle jet .106 Needle position Central notch Spark Plug 500 c.c. Scrambler Model Cylinder bore size 3.2505—3.2495"...

  • Page 13: Gear Ratios

    Sprocket Sizes Rear wheel 54 teeth 42 teeth Clutch Final drive {gear box) 16 teeth 19 teeth Engine Chain Sizes ½" x .305" (67 links) Front chain a" x s" (104 links) Rear chain Valve lift—inlet cam .442" Valve lift—exhaust cam .339"...
  • Page 14 Sprocket First Second Third Fourth Engine size gear gear gear gear (top) 16 teeth 18.39 to 1 12.19 to 1 9.30 to 1 6.89 to 1 „ 17.30 to 1 11.47 to 1 8.74 to 1 6.48 to 1 „ 16.34 to 1 10.83 to 1 8.26 to 1...

  • Page 15: Engine Design Changes

    TABLE OF CHAINS Chain Sizes (Heavyweight Model) … … … Front chain ½" + .305" … … … s" + .380" Rear chain … … … a" + .225" Magneto chain … … … a" + .225" Dyno chain 1957 Models 350 c.c 500 c.c 350 c.c...
  • Page 16 the big end assembly. To remedy—providing the roller path on the crank pin and also the big end eye is not broken—a new set of rollers will take up the slight movement. A similar rattle that is not affected by engine load, on engines with a number before 6850 is due to the stator in the crankcase breather being loose, this being secured by the steel tube located between the rear of the crankcase and the gear box.
  • Page 17 with suitable guide pin. (2) Wire-wound pistons fitted to 500 c.c. models. (3) 500 c.c. type high crankcase used for 350 c.c. models after engine number 8000. (4) 500 c.c. flywheels used for the 350 c.c. model. In addition to these engine design changes; (5) Larger brakes (7"...

  • Page 20: Lubrication

    LUBRICATION Lightweight Models This is by true dry sump system. The oil tank, or reservoir, is integral with the crankcase. The oil pump has only one moving part, i.e., the oil pump plunger, which rotates and reciprocates. Rotation is created by the worm gear on the timing side flywheel axle.
  • Page 21 from a close grained felt, supported by a wire cage, the cage is not detachable. The filter is mounted in the front of the drive side crankcase and is retained by a cap washer, spring and plated dome nut. At the far end of the filter, a steel cup is fitted to support the filter and sea] the filter end, so that all returned oil will pass through the filter.

  • Page 22: Recommended Lubricants

    The normal oil content is 3 pints (1.8 litres), the gear box must not be completely filled with oil. After draining and replenishing the oil at the first 500 miles (800 kilometres) top up every subsequent 1,000 miles (1600 kilometres) to a level just below the bottom of the orfice for the inspection plate.

  • Page 23: Periodical Maintenance

    Mobiloil Arctic (S.A.E. 20) Energol (S.A.E. 20) Shell X-100 Motor Oil 20/20W {S.A.E. 20) Castrolite (S.A.E. 10W-30) Essolube 20 (S.A.E. 20) Regent S.A.E. 20 use S.A.E. 30 for G2 and G2CS REAR CHAINS Mobilgrease MP Energrease A.O. Regent Marfax Multipurpose...

  • Page 24: Air Filter

    WEEKLY Oil tank Check level and top-up if necessary. Tyres Check pressures and inflate if necessary. EVERY 500 MILES Oil tank/Reservoir Drain at first 500 miles, re-fill with new oil and clean filter. Ignition Check contact breaker points. Gear box Drain at first 500 miles and re-fill.

  • Page 25: Engine Servicing

    Filters (Heavyweight models) clean metal mesh filter in oil tank, Ignition Clean and adjust as detailed in Electrical section. Dynamo Clean as detailed in Electrical section. Front fork Check each side of front fork for hydraulic fluid content and, if necessary, top up. Insufficient oil content is indicated by abnormally lively action, Carburetter Remove carburetter float chamber side cover and...
  • Page 26 FIG 3 Exploded view of 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. OHV engine...
  • Page 27 Turn the engine until both valves are closed, i.e. after the inlet valve has opened and just closed. Remove two nuts and the bolt securing the engine steady bracket to the rocker box and frame. Disconnect valve lifter cable. Take out the nine bolts securing the rocker box to the cylinder head (one of these bolts is inside the rocker box).
  • Page 28 Decarbonisation. Instead of the usual stipulated mileage interval between periods of decarbonisation, it is recommended that this is undertaken only when the need becomes apparent because of loss in power, heavy petrol consumption or generally reduced performance. When undertaken, unless it is thought necessary to inspect the piston and rings, the cylinder barrel is best left undisturbed.
  • Page 29 oil on the valve stems and also inside each guide before assembly. Removing the cylinder and piston. With the cylinder head removed, the barrel can be raised vertically to clear the holding down studs. Before doing so, position the engine with the piston on the top of its stroke, have available a piece of clean rag.
  • Page 30 Just behind is a tapped hole for the cylinder head bolt. (Lightweight engines only.) Close to the cylinder bore and to the right of the cylinder head bolt hole is a smaller hole, which is the oil feed passage from the pump to the rocker gear.
  • Page 31 on the wire to register with the seating for the sparking plug on the cylinder head. Take out the wire and make a further mark on it ¼" ABOVE the previous mark. Put the wire through the sparking plug hole, then turn the engine BACKWARDS until the top mark on the wire registers with the seating for the sparking plug, the piston is now ¼"...
  • Page 32 To reset ignition timing. As the ignition advance is limited to ¼" B.T.D.C, this setting is critical and must be carefully carried out. The automatic ignition control unit is a taper fit on the camshaft, retained by a central bolt. To remove this unit take out the retaining bolt, use in its place a withdrawal bolt, Part No.
  • Page 33 Remove the bolt securing the automatic timing control to the cam wheel shaft. Fit a 024328 withdrawal bolt in place of the fixing bolt removed which should be lightly tightened. A sharp blow on the end of the withdrawal bolt will dislodge the unit from the shaft. Do not disturb the contact breaker cam.
  • Page 34 FIG 6 Setting the ignition timing (Heavyweight) re-fit the plate with the two scribed lines in register, and firmly tighten the fixing screws. As the ignition timing is important, a re-check should be made, before re-fitting the sparking plug, rocker cover, etc. MAGNETO IGNITION To re-time the ignition.
  • Page 35 (No need to remove nut.) Lever off sprocket until it is loose on the taper of the shaft. (Use stout screw-driver or old type tyre lever.) Turn over engine till both valves are closed. Insert rod through sparking plug hole, feel piston by rocking engine forwards or backwards till it is felt the piston is at the top of its stroke with both valves closed, Mark rod flush with top face of sparking plug hole.

  • Page 36: Engine Overhaul

    .016 inch so that the tappets may be well clear of the quietening curves of the camshafts. The timing gears are marked to facilitate their replacement. To re-set the valve timing, by using the marks on the gears, proceed as follows;—...
  • Page 37 rear engine plate with distance pieces behind it. Release the two clamp nuts then take away the plate and the gear box. Take out the engine by: Removing five studs passing through the crankcase and frame. Raise the rear end of the crankcase—pull it back and out of the frame. If difficulty exists, take the machine off the central stand the frame will open and let the engine come out.
  • Page 38 Flywheel tool Removing the flywheel shafts. Both shafts are a force fit in the flywheels and are removed by using an arbour press. Removing the timing side bush. Support the case with a suitable piece of tubing and press out the bush from inside the case—the retaining pin will come out with the bush.
  • Page 39 Assembling the flywheels. The importance of using an arbour press to assemble the flywheels cannot be too highly stressed. To rely on tighten- ing the crank pin nuts will result in a broken crank pin, due to the fly- wheels flexing when the engine is under load. It is for this reason that after fitting the crank pin, both flywheels must be forced together under a press, so that the shoulder of the crank pin is hard against the flywheel.
  • Page 40 Fitting the timing gear. Assemble as detailed in para VALVE TIMING. Oil filters. Before fitting ensure that the fabric filter is undamaged and is clean. 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. Heavyweight Models Removing the engine from frame. If the engine has to be removed for dismantling, commence by following the instructions given for removing the cylinder and piston.
  • Page 41 Remove front chain and take off clutch assembly (use clutch with- drawal tool 040449). Remove rotor, engine Sprocket, watch for distance piece behind it. Remove three countersunk screws fixing rear portion of chaincase to engine. Remove crankcase breather pipe. Remove front engine plate bolts and take away engine plate. Remove both footrest arms, Remove three bolts passing, through rear engine plate and crankcase.
  • Page 42 off the spindle. The outside rocker with spindle can be pulled out together with the steel sleeve 017292. Either one or two felt sealing rings used midway between the two rocker axle bushes can be prised out with a sharp pointed tool. As a guide, measure the protrusion of the inner bushes before removal.
  • Page 43 The rotating oil pump plunger is here shown in situ, together with the guide screw which registers in the plunger profiled groove, thereby providing the reciprocating movement.
  • Page 44 Key to 1 Dowel peg, locating timing gear cover. 2 Timing side flywheel axle with integral gear for driving oil pump plunger. 3 Oil pump plunger. 4 Screw (one or three) with fibre washer, plugging oil passages cast in crankcase. 5 Guide pin, for oil pump plunger.
  • Page 45 Fitting the crankpin. If the engine has covered considerable mileage prior to dismantling, and a new crankpin is needed, the roller cage should be replaced also. Metal or abrasive can become embedded in the soft metal used for the cage, which with further use can cause abrasive wear. Verify oil holes in the crankpin are clear and clean before fitting.
  • Page 46 damage to the oil seal during the process of refitting the cover, a guide tool is used. The tool is fitted over the shaft for the cam wheel, with a little oil on it to guide the seal over the shaft. The seal should be fitted in the cover with the metal backing facing outwards, Clean the lace of the cover and stick a new gasket to it.
  • Page 47 The 500 c.c. version has a bore size of 86 mm. and 85.5 mm. stroke, as opposed to 596 c.c. engine, which has a bore size of 89 mm. and 96 mm. stroke. The peak r.p.m. of the 500 c.c. engine is 6,200, the larger capacity engine peaks at 5,500 r.p.m.
  • Page 48 big end cage. In the event of damage to the crankpin, by reason of deto- nation, due to excess ignition advance, pre-ignition (soft plug), or unsuitable fuel, it is essential to replace the roller cage as well as other big end parts. The crankpin and liner for con rod have a mirror like finish (5 micros) and are made to close limits.
  • Page 49 Removing magneto control cable handlebar end and contact breaker vent pipe and front engine plate. Removing both oil pipes (be careful with spanner manipulation at crankcase end). Removing outer portion front chain case. Removing clutch assembly, engine sprocket and chain (see note). Removing rear portion front chain case.
  • Page 50 alternative, use an Arbour press with one flywheel supported by two stout steel bars placed on four blocks, which is the best method if suitable equipment is available. Removing the timing side bush. Firmly support the crankcase on the timing cover end, press out the bush from inside the crankcase. To fit a new bush, reverse the crankcase, press in the new bush, the inner edge should be flush with the crankcase.
  • Page 51 Fitting new type camshafts. The special inlet cam No. 024534 first intro- duced in 1960 can be fitted to earlier type engines providing the crank- case alongside the timing side bush is machined for clearance, as the valve lift is higher. The inlet tappet guide should also be reduced in length (inside the timing cover) to the extent of 8", also use inlet valve guide 026030.
  • Page 52 The oil pump. The face of the oil pump body, where it joins the crank- case, must be perfectly flat also free from bruises and blemish; otherwise the oil “pick up” from the pump will be curtailed, as the pump will suck air at this point.
  • Page 53 FIG 12 1964 crankcase Tappets and guides. The timing side crankcase tappet guide in situ has two locating diameters ¼" wide at the top and bottom of the guide bousing. The guides are located by a grub screw in register with a vee shaped groove machined circumferentially on the outside diameter of the guide.
  • Page 54 Fitting tappets and guides. Warm the crankcase, pass the tappet up the guide hole and put on it the tappet guide. Press the guide home until the edge of the large diameter is just flush with the crankcase face, the vee shaped groove should now register with the grub screw hole, fit the screws.
  • Page 55 THE GEAR BOX 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. Lightweight Models It will be seen in Fig. 13 that the gear box internals are situated above the centre line of the gear box shell. It is for this reason that at least three pints of engine oil must be filled and maintained for satisfactory lubrica- tion.
  • Page 56 First gear modification. In gear boxes made before number G8603 (250 c.c. model) and M2701 (350 c.c. model) a plain layshaft first gear 041291 was used. This is superseded by a bushed pinion 044080. The new first gear can be used with the existing second gear pinion. Wear on kickstarter axle bush.
  • Page 57 Remove gear cluster with mainshaft, layshaft and two striker forks. The plunger 042835 together with its spring 040045 will remain in the gear box shell. Removing sleeve gear and sprocket. Remove the rear chain. The sleeve gear sprocket nut 041271 has a left-hand thread. As the sprocket on the sleeve gear is subject to reversal by accelerating and decelerating the sprocket nut must be positively tight.
  • Page 58 pinions is clearly illustrated. Ensure the plunger and springs are in posi- tion in the gear box shell. For clarity, assemble in the following order: (1) Fit footchange spindle and quadrant. (2) Take up the main shaft fit first, second and third gear, enter shaft through sleeve gear.
  • Page 59 the steel plates together, hold them up to the light when it will be seen if one or more of the plates are buckled. Later type plates are "dimpled" to prevent buckling, Check the free length of the clutch springs which should be 1¾" overall length.
  • Page 60 FIG 14 Removing clutch shock absorber rubbers then the plate 043195, to expose the rollers and cage. Note the closed end of the roller face faces the plate 043195. To remove clutch cable. Remove oil filler cap from kickstarter case cover. Screw right home the clutch cable adjuster, as far as it will go.
  • Page 61 rod can be felt, unscrew the adjuster exactly half a turn and retighten the lock nut, taking care the adjuster does not move. Complete the adjust- ment by unscrewing the clutch cable adjuster until there is x " movement between the outer casing and the adjuster, tighten the lock nut. Replace the inspection cap.
  • Page 62 MAINSHAFT 041701 MAINSHAFT 041703...
  • Page 63 MAINSHAFT 041263 MAINSHAFT 0 4 3 0 5 8...
  • Page 64 Damaged kickstarter stop plate (94). Can only be due to violent backfire causing excessive ignition advance, or too much throttle when starting. Drill the rivet head to remove swaging and push out the pin. Kickstarter spring disengages. This is due to the end of the spring taking 'a set' where is is located in the cover.
  • Page 65 Heavyweight gearbox...
  • Page 66 Key to FIG 17 Kickstart 'O' ring Layshaft third Clutch retaining gear pinion Bush Return spring Washer Layshaft second- gear pinion Stop-plate washer Locking screw Stop-plate screw Mainshaft first- Locking plate gear pinion Circlip Locking nut Mainshaft ball Layshaft first- Drive sprocket gear pinion race...
  • Page 67 Remove sleeve gear sprocket nut (5), which has a left-hand thread. Use a good fitting ring spanner across the flats and refer to method of removing this type of sprocket nut described for Lightweight gear box. Remove sleeve gear Sprocket which is splined; also distance piece. Remove sleeve gear by tapping it through the bearing (17).
  • Page 68 Re-assembling the gear box. NOTE—Apply some clean oil to all moving parts before fitting. Fit the sleeve gear ball race (17) and layshaft bearing (22), pre-heat the shell and ensure bearings are entered squarely; apply a little clean oil. Fit sleeve gear through bearing, and oil the sleeve or distance piece for oil seal.
  • Page 69 spindle (25) and firmly tighten. (7) Fit the first gear (40). To complete the assembly. Insert the roller (32) into the quadrant in position to receive the spindle for the footchange. Examine the gasket (46) for blemish, locate it and refit the inner cover. Before finally tighten- ing the clutch body lock ring (80) verify the operating lever (82) is in line with the clutch cable entry, to ensure a straight pull on the inner wire.
  • Page 70 Back plate (bonded) Roller cage Rollers (15) Race plate Spring studs Spring-stud nuts Centre hub Shock rubbers (large) Shock rubbers (small) 10 Shock plate Shock-plate screws Shock centre Sprocket Friction plates (double) Steel plates Friction plate (single) Pressure plate 18 Pressure-plate adjuster Pressure-plate-adjuster nut Spring cups Springs...
  • Page 71 Replace buckled plates with the new type. An excess of oil in the front chaincase will adversely affect the dutch. Friction plates so affected should be de-greased as they are usually serviceable. Avoid the use of petrol or paraffin and use trichloroephylene. Alternatively, copiouslv dust the inserts with Fullers Earth to absorb the oil.

  • Page 72: Front Forks

    operating through the oil filler cap opening. Completely unscrew the dutch cable adjuster. Disengage, from the handlebar operating control lever, the clutch inner wire. Pull cable, by its lower end, till removed from the machine, easing it through the frame cable clips while doing so. Dismantling shock absorber.
  • Page 73 be due to lateral movement caused by wear on the black fork bushes. The movement can be detected also by jacking up the front wheel clear of the ground when, by raising and lowering the front wheel, the movement will show up.
  • Page 74 Support the tube in 'V' blocks and use an Arbour press. NOTE—The fork tubes must be smooth and free from bruises and blemish, particularly in the part where the oil seal operates, otherwise the seal will be damaged beyond further use, with serious oil leakage. Fork damper conversion (Scrambler Models).
  • Page 75 Exploded view of Teledraulic Heavyweight forks FIG 21 Washer, leather, for fork spring top seating. Buffer, rubber, for fork inner tube. Spring, main, for front fork. Buffer, rubber, for fork inner tube. Buffer, rubber, for fork inner tube. Washer, leather, for fork spring bottom seating. Extension for fork slider.
  • Page 77 If the circlip becomes distorted during removal, replace it with a new one. To dismantle the damper tube. Use a thin wall box key to take out bolt (31) in the slider recess ½" across the flats, pull out the damper tube, with damper rod assembled.
  • Page 78 FIG 22 Fork tube tool frame race and bearings. Alternatively, place a box under the forks to support. Assemble the two top cover tubes and handlebar lug, connect the damper rods to the top bolts. Engage the top bolts as far as possible, then release the clamp screws. Firmly tighten the top bolts then the clamp screw.
  • Page 79 Continue to tighten the lower adjusting nut until no perceptible move- ment can be felt and yet the steering head is perfectly free to turn, then tighten down the domed nut in order to lock the adjustment. Securely tighten the two fork crown Allen screws (this is very impor- tant).
  • Page 80 Fit rubber sleeves, spaced over fork spring length. Fit main spring, leather washer and top tube (16). Fit the tube assembled into the two top members, as far as it will go, tighten the clamp screw lightly to hold the tube in position. Fit the draw bolt, well engaged in the tube and pull the tube home.
  • Page 81 extreme care, to avoid losses by spilling. Use a measured container for the correct content of 5ozs. Replace the drain plugs before filling, also firmly tighten the filler plugs after. Steering head adjustment. On a new machine the filler plugs (34) should be checked for tightness due to settling down, check as well the steering head bearing at the first 100 miles, and then occasionally, as the mileage increases.
  • Page 82 Exploded view of front forks—1959 (Lightweight type) Drain screw fibre washer. Fork, H. Mudguard clip left. Inner tube top screw. Mudguard clip right. Inner tube top screw fibre Mudguard clip bolt. washer. Mudguard clip bolt washer. Top cover tube. Mudguard clip bolt nut. Inner tube top adaptor.
  • Page 83 1964-66 Front Fork Assembly Fork main tube Main tube bush Main tube bottom bush Main tube bottom bush circlip Fork end left hand 6 Fork end right hand 7 Fork end drain plug Washer for plug Oil damper tube Oil damper rod Oil damper tube bolt Washer for bolt Washer for tube...
  • Page 84 them along the fork tube and take off from the top end past the taper end, if the oil seal is to be used again. Assembling the forks. It will be apparent from the dismantling instruc- tions given that there is nothing complicated in the fork assembly and if the reverse sequence is used, no difficulty should occur with the following precautions.

  • Page 85: Rear Suspension Units

    slider, the seal will go over the bush without damage. Refill with 70 c.c. of S A E . 30 oil. NOTE—The fork tube bushes are silver soldered to the tubes 5¼" apart. Steering head adjustment. With the machine on the stand, need for adjustment of the steering head bearings may be detected by trying to rock the forks with hands holding the fork legs.
  • Page 86 350 c.c. Trials Model 043312 8½" … Red/Red/Red Heavyweight Scrambler 024443 8d" Green/Green/Green „ Touring Model 023373 8¼" … Red/Pink/Red 8¼" „ Sidecar Model … 023372 Blue/Yellow/Blue 250 c.c. Touring Model … … … 043312 Red/Red/Red 8½" c.c. Lightweight Model …...
  • Page 87 First try the effect of releasing the nut fixing the cotter pin on the left side of the arm. Tap the cotter pin upwards, then knock together the two tubular members and drive back the cotter pin and retighten. This will absorb end play, which is often associated with wear in the bushes.

  • Page 88: Frame

    Removing the rear mudguard. Remove ¼" bolt securing rear guard to frame loop. Remove c" stud fixing bottom front of the guard to the frame lug. Remove bolt (3) and spacer, and chain guard. Remove bolt fixing rear chain guard at front. To remove the rear loop.
  • Page 89 FIG 26 Front wheel bearings 8 Oil seal cup 1 Circlip 9 Adjusting ring 2 Oil seal cup 10 Adjusting ring locknut 3 Oil seal 11 Nut locating brake coverplate 4 Washer retaining seal 5 Wheel spindle complete 12 Nut securing brake coverplate 6 Washer retaining seal 13 Spindle end washer 7 Oil seal...
  • Page 90 Brake drum bearing Fig. 28. With the brake drum away from the frame. to dismantle: Remove dummy spindle (12). Remove circlip (11) and cup for oil seal (5). Remove bearing by drifting out, with second cup. Remove oil seal (4) and distance piece (6). Refit the oil seal with metal backing towards the inside of brake drum.

  • Page 91: Wheels And Brakes

    BRAKES Lightweight Scrambler and 350 c.c. Trials Model The front brake. The front brake is dimensionally the same as the rear brake. Brake adjustment to compensate wear on the linings is effected by finger adjustment on the rear brake rod and front brake cable. After considerable mileage, brake lining wear will adversely affect the leverage of the brake shoe expander.
  • Page 92 hub with a pull-out wheel spindle. A super oil seal is fitted against the bearing on the brake drum side to prevent grease entering the brake drum. A similar oil seal is used in the bearing retaining sleeve at the opposite end of the hub, also a felt sealing ring.
  • Page 93 FIG 28 Rear brake and wheel bearings, de-luxe models Spacer for withdrawable spindle Withdrawable wheel spindle Speedometer gear box sleeve Outer spacer for brake cover Ring retaining oil seal (small) plate Oil seal Washer for cover plate fixing nut Cup for oil sseal Brake cover plate fixing n u t Oil seal distance piece Spindle end washer...
  • Page 94 Slide out towards the rear spindle distance piece 029243, the wheel will now come away from the brake drum. If the machine is leaned over on the right side, the wheel will come out under the brake drum. To re-fit the rear wheel. Put the wheel back, insert the spindle through the frame and hub (without the distance piece of speedometer drive), which will help to line up the wheel.
  • Page 96 To remove the brake drum. With the rear wheel removed: Take off the brake rod hand adjuster, then remove the rear chain connecting link. Release the nuts securing the dummy spindle, pull back the brake drum clear of the fork ends. To dismantle front hub.
  • Page 97 when the spindle nut is removed together with the spacer and washer, the spindle can be taken out. Balancing the wheels. At high speeds, if the tyres are out of balance, the steering can be affected and in extreme cases the front forks can 'flap' at maximum speed.
  • Page 98 Release wheel spindle nuts, pull the wheel to the right to clear the brake anchorage and pull back the wheel. Take the wheel out on the right side of the machine. Wheel Bearings Lightweight Front wheel (1959 Model). Remove the brake cover plate assembled, then knock out the wheel spindle which will eject the bearing, the oil seal and cup.
  • Page 100 Key to 1960-62 front hub assembly Spindle, front wheel Enclosure cup, oil seal Washer, front wheel spindle Seal, felt, for bearing (350 c.c. only) Washer, bearing felt seal Lever, brake shoe expander Bearing, for h u b Nut, brake shoe expander lever Spacing tube, bearing Washer, brake shoe expander Pressing, spacing tub e...

  • Page 101: Transmission

    TRANSMISSION Heavyweight Models Front chain adjustment. The Scrambler Models use a chain adjuster on each side of the gear box, to prevent the gear box from moving. Remove the engine plate cover, also inspection cap on chaincase. Slack off the clamp bolt. To tighten the chain: Screw down the adjusting bolt.
  • Page 102 As the chain leaves the gear box sprocket, the string will be each side of the sprocket teeth. When the chain is well clear, cut one piece of the string about one foot from where it passes through the chain. Detach the chain, leaving the string in position.
  • Page 103 NOTE— After chain adjustment rear brake should be checked and re- adjusted as necessary. See 'Brake adjustment'. Removing and refitting rear chain. To protect the rear chain from mud and water it is very closely shrouded by the chain guard and removing the chain without first detaching the chain guard, can present consider- able difficulty.

  • Page 105: Wipac Alternator

    Air leaks either at junction of carburetter and inlet manifold, or by reason of badly worn inlet valve stems or guides. Faulty engine valve seatings. Sparking plug faulty, or its points set too closely. Ignition advanced too much. Contact breaker points dirty, pitted, loose or set too closely. High-tension wire defective.
  • Page 106 In this position the two groups of alternator coils are connected in parallel, and if the lights switch is in the 'OFF' position the full output of the alternator goes into the battery. This will raise the voltage of a dis- charged battery to a level sufficient to start the engine.
  • Page 107 way connector. If a maroon colour lead is also used, leave this in position. (2) Using the a.c. voltmeter with the one ohm. resistor across the ter- minals (parallel) join one wire from the voltmeter to the white wire, the other meter wire to the orange wire.

  • Page 108: Wipac Electrical Service

    mechanically identical and will interchange, the switch knobs being differently marked. If one switch is suspect, take off the lamp rim and glass. Pull off the cable plugs and reverse their location. A further check will indicate if the switch is defective or otherwise. Replace the cable plugs in correct position after changing the switch.
  • Page 109 Clean points with an abrasive strip or alternatively fine grade emery cloth. Pass a strip of clean paper, or rag soaked in petrol, across the points after cleaning. Check free movement of contact breaker arm on its pivot, Adjusting contact breaker gap. This adjustment is effected by altering the position of the plate for the fixed contact point by: (1) Releasing slightly the locking screw.
  • Page 110 (5) Place one of the rest wires on to one of the two coil terminals, the other to the coil case. No reading should show. Use the test wires on the h.t. connection and the case. No reading should show. A meter reading on one or both tests means the windings are earthed, the coil should be replaced.
  • Page 111 the wire end clear of the frame and engine). Connect one test lead to rectifier brown terminal, the other test lead to earth. Switch on to EMG and run the engine at tickover when, if the rectifier is O.K., the bulb will light brightly (six coils in circuit). Repeat the test with the switch at IGN {three coils in circuit), the bulb will light, but not so brightly if rectifier is O.K.

  • Page 112: Lucas Electrical Service

    Join the third test wire to the battery positive, also to the rectifier earth bolt or case. Connect the wire removed from the battery, in turn, to the white and green terminals. If the bulb lights in these two tests the rectifier is defective. Take off the test wires from rectifier and remake the circuit.

  • Page 113: Lucas Coil Ignition

    cured by two knurled screws. (1) Disconnect the green and yellow and green and black connectors. (2) Reconnect the green and black to the green and yellow, (3) Do not interfere with the green and white cable. It is stressed that this is only a temporary measure, prolonged use will adversely affect the battery.
  • Page 114 check the gap, turn the engine over slowly until the contacts are seen to be fully open, and insert a feeler gauge between the contacts. The correct gap setting is 0.014"—0.016". If the gap is correct, the gauge should be a sliding fit. (Make sure the gauge is clean and oil free before use.) To adjust the gap, keep the engine in the position giving maximum con- tact opening and slacken the screws securing the fixed contact plate.

  • Page 115: Dynamo

    borundum stone or very fine emery cloth and afterwards wiped with a cloth moistened with petrol. Adjustment of contact breaker (Magneto type SR-1). If and when adjust- ment is necessary slacken the two screws securing the fixed contact plate and adjust the position of the plate until the gap, when the contacts are fully opened, is set to the thickness of the gauge.
  • Page 116 Do not allow the voltmeter reading to rise above 10 volts. Do not race the engine in an attempt to increase the voltage. It is suffi- cient to run up the engine to a speed of 1,000 r.p.m. If the above reading is obtained the dynamo is in order. If there is no reading, check the brush gear.
  • Page 117 battery to be charged by the dynamo. On the other hand, when the engine speed is low, or the engine is stationary, the cut-out disconnects the battery from the dynamo, thereby preventing current flowing back from the battery to the dynamo, a proceeding that would soon cause the battery to become completely discharged.
  • Page 118 Main bulb … … Home Models Lucas No. 373 6-volt 30/24 watt prefocus (left hand dip). General Export Models … Lucas No, 312 6-volt 30/24 watt prefocus (vertical dip), Continental Models … Lucas No- 403 6-volt 35/35 watt prefocus duplo (vertical dip). …...
  • Page 119 The figures given in the following table are the minimum acceptable battery input currents. If the readings obtained are lower than the figures quoted, proceed to Test No. 2. Minimum acceptable battery charging currents. Despatch number of unit Switch Position 540, 210, 18 047, 534 540, 210, 05 Boost switch...
  • Page 120 Unsatisfactory readings can be due to defective wiring or connections. Ensure that all snap-connector joints and earth connections are in good condition before proceeding to Test. No, 2. If considered necessary, check the rectifier by substitution. (1) Disconnect the three alternator output cables. (2) Start the engine and set to run at approximately 3,000 r.p.m, (3) Connect the one ohm load resistance in parallel with the ax.
  • Page 121 wiring diagram 250 c.c. Scrambler...
  • Page 122 Wiring diagram, 250 c.c. Scrambler (with lights removed)

  • Page 123: Wiring Diagrams

    wiring diagram 250 c.c. and 350 c.c.
  • Page 124 1957 model...
  • Page 125 1958-1959 model...
  • Page 126 FIG 37 1960-66 models...
  • Page 127 Ref 265 SERVICE & O V E R H A U L M A N U A L AJS & M A T C H L E S S T W I N M'CYCLES Covering all 1955 to 1965 Twin Models including G9, G9CS, G9CSR, G 1 1 , G11CS, G12.
  • Page 128 GET KARTING REGULARLY - WITH A SUBSCRIPTION may use the form below to renew an existing subscription and to convert an existing normal sub- scription (at the renewal date) to a FROZEN subscription, receive the special gift. Subscrip- tions paid in foreign currency w i l l be adjusted in length to suit the amount actually received in British currency after payments of all bank...
  • Page 129 KARTING Oct. '71 British Champs. Motus BACK ISSUES Dec. '71 World Champs. C. Palace 12p each including p & p Ea. July '69 World Cup Jan. '72 B.M. Greeves Test Taifun Kart Mid. July '69 World Championships Feb. '72 Parilla SS20. Bodies Ea.

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