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First,
m ark position of the shoulder with a pencil held tothe
revolving
workpiece.
Then make a sizing cut with the
parting toolo placing
this cut about 1/16-in.
outside the
shoulder position, and cutting to within about 1/8-in. of the
depth desired
for the area outside of the shoulder. If
shoulder is shallow, the toe of the skew ca n be used to make
the sizing cut; but do not go _ndeeper than 1/84n.
with the
skew unless wider and wider vees are cut to provide
clearance for this tool.
WRONG
RIGHT
BEVEL
Use the gouge to remove
any waste stock outside of
shoulder -- and smooth this section, up to within t/8-in,
of
the shoulder, in usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder,
unless it is more than lqn.
high, is best done with the
1/2-in.
skew. First, toe of skew is used to remove thin
shavings from the side of the shoulder -- down to finish
size, Hold skew so that bottom edge of bevel next to
shoulder will be very nearly parallel to side of shoulder
--but with cutting edge turned away at the top so that only
the extreme toe will do the cutting. If cutting
edge is flat
against shoulder, the chisel will run. Start with handle low,
and raise handle to advance toe into the work. Cut down to
finished diameter of outside area; then cfean out the corner
byadvancing heel of the skew into it along the surface of the
outside area. Tilt the cutting edge, with handle raised up, so
that only the extreme heel does this cutting.
if shoulder is at end of work, the process is ca_led squaring
the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter
about 1/4-in.
larger than too! center diameter, then inter
saw off the waste stock,
CUTTING
VEES
Vee grooves
can be cut with either
the toe or heel of the
skew. When
the toe is used, the cutting
action is exactly
the
same
as in trimming
a shoulder
-- except
that the skew is
tilted
to cut at the required
bevel. Light
cuts she uid be taken
on first one side then the other,
gradually
enlarging
the vee
to the required
depth
and width.
When the heel is used, the skew is rotated down into the
work, using the rest as a pivot. Otherwise,
cutting
position
and sequence of cuts is the same. As when using the toe, it
is important that cutting
be done only by extreme end of
cutting edge_
If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to start them by
making a sizing cut at the center of each vee, Vees ca n also
be scraped with the spear point chisel or a three-sided file.
CUTTING
BEADS
This requires
considerable
practice.
First, make pencil
lines
to locate the tops (highest
points)
of two or more
adjoining
beads. Then make a vee groove
at the exact center
between
two lines--
and down
to the desired
depth of the separation
between
the beads,
8e carefuf
not to make the groove
too
wide
or you will
remove
portions
of the desired
beads,
The
sides
of the two adjoining
beads are now cut with
the heel
of the skew
--
preferably
1/2-in.
size,
unless
beads
are
quite
large.
Place skew
at right
angles
with
the work
axis,
flat against
surface
and well
up near the top, The extreme
heel should
be just inside the pencil line that marks
the top
of the bead.
Now
draw
skew
straight
back while
raising
handle
slowly
-- until
edge of the heel
at the pencil
tine
starts
to cut. As edge begins
to cut, roll skew in the direction
of the vee -- so that
the exact portion
of the edge
which
started
cutting
will travel
in a 90 ° arc down to bottom
of the
vee. Upon reaching
bottom
of the vee, the skew should
be
on edge.
Reverse
the movements
to cut side of the adjacent
bead.
SECOND
START
POSITION
BEVEL
TANGENT
FINISH
TO WORK
It is important
that
only the extreme
heel
should
do the
cutting.
This means
that the bottom
edge of the bevel next
to the vee must at all times be tangent
to the arc of the bead
being
formed.
Easier beads can be shaped
with the spear point chisel.
Use
pencil
marks
and sizing
cuts
as before.
Push
the
chisel
straight into each cut and rotate it horizontally
to round
off
the
adjacent
edges,
tt must
be
moved
slightly
in the
direction
of rotation
at the same time,
to keep the point
from
digging
into the adjacent
bead.
CUTTING
COVES
(CONCAVES)
This is the most difficult
single
cut to master
---- but or_e of
the most important
in good wood
turning.
First, use pencil
marks
to indicate
the edges. Then,
rough
it out -.- to withis
about
1/8-in.
of the desired
finish
surface
--- by scrapir_g
with
the gouge or round
nose chisel.
_f the cove is to be very
wide, sizing
cuts can be made to plot the roughing
out. Once
it is roughed
out, the cove can be finished
in two cuts----.- one
from
each side to the bottom
center.
At the start of either
cut, gouge
is held with
handie
high and
the
two
sides
of
blade
held
between
the
thumb
and
forefinger
of tool-rest
hand, just behind
the bevel_ Positio#
the fingers
ready
to roli the blade
into
cove. Hoid blade
so
that
bevel
is at a 90 ° angle
to the work
axis,
with
point
touching
the pencil
line and pointed
into work axis.
2_
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