Summary of Contents for Hudson Boat
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Page 1: Owners Manual
Owners Manual 1930 Mallard Rd. London, Ontario, Canada N6H 5M1 519-473-9864 www.hudsonboatworks.com... -
Page 2: Table Of Contents
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION INSURANCE & TRANSPORTATION INSURANCE TRANSPORTATION CAR TOP TRAILERING ASSEMBLY TOOLS PARTS FOOT ASSEMBLY (WITHOUT SHOES AND SHOE PLATE) SEAT ASSEMBLY SLIDES RIGGER (SWEEP) RIGGING FEET RIGGER RIGGER SPREAD (SCULLING) SPAN (SWEEP) HEIGHT PITCH BACKSTAY (SWEEP) SLIDES STEERING (2-/4-X) CLEANING PROTECTION LUBRICATION... -
Page 3: Introduction
INTRODUCTION Thank you for choosing Hudson. Your boat is a high performance racing machine, and taking the time to rig it properly will help you get the most out of it. With minimal preventative maintenance, your Hudson will give you years of trouble free pleasure. We have designed this owners manual to cater to all levels, and there are probably one or two things specific to Hudson Boats that even the most experienced coaches can learn (these are highlighted as tips). -
Page 4: Insurance & Transportation
Please refer to the FAQ How to lift and carry the boat, as the 4-/x/+’s and 8+’s should be lifted by the rigger, or by the sides of the boat, and not the inspection port. -
Page 5: Car Top
The rope should be tied such that even if it does loosen it cannot get caught in the wheels of the car. If this happens and the rope is over the bow of the boat, the rope will snap the bow off. -
Page 6: Trailering
Thread the strap through the cam making sure the webbing lies flat against the hull, • and draw on the end of the strap. Test the tightness by trying to move the boat side to side, if it moves draw on the end • of the strap again. -
Page 7: Assembly
7/16” wrench - Almost all of your adjustments can be performed using just one tool, the 7/16” wrench (11mm also works). This is the only tool you need to take your rigger off the boat and put it back on. Once you have rigged your boat to your specifications, this is the only tool you should have to carry for your boat. -
Page 8: Parts
PARTS Please use this section to help identify the parts referred to in this manual. Foot assembly (without shoes and shoe Plate) Toe Bar Foot Stretcher End Piece 1” Stretcher Bolt (side), Flat Hairpin Plug Washer, Lock Washer and Wing Notched Channel (side) -
Page 9: Seat Assembly
Seat Assembly Furk Axle Seat Top Snap Ring Wheel Bearing Flat Washer Bolt Lock Washer... -
Page 10: Slides
Slides Slide End Underside of Slide Wingnut Flat Washer Slide Bolt Lock Washer Slide Bolt Removal Hole... -
Page 11: Rigger (Sweep)
Rigger (Sweep) Sweep Angle Mount ¼” x 3/8” Bolt ¼” Lock Washer ¼” Flat Washer Speed Washer 3/8” Backstay Washer Oarlock Sweep Pitch Bushing Height Washer ½” Flat Washer ½” Lock Washer ½” Nut Rigger Shoe Mount... -
Page 12: Rigging
There are almost as many ways to rig for individuals as there are individuals. For that reason, we are showing you how to adjust your Hudson rather than giving you specific rigging numbers. We have also put these adjustments in the order that we think they should be done, to make your life easier. - Page 13 Foot height is measured from the seat top to the heel cup of the shoe. This is one way you can get a consistent feel from boat to boat. Please note that the seat sits above the gunnel in the 1x’s and the Lightweight 2x, and the measurement procedure will differ because in all other...
- Page 14 Subtract the first number from the second to get your height. • To adjust, loosen two ¼” bolts on the sternside of the foot plate, and slide the feet up • the hairpin for less height or down the hairpin for more height. Finger tighten the bolts to keep the feet from sliding when you re-measure.
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Page 15: Rigger
Most coaches will have a preference as to how the boat trims. We recommend that at speed the boat looks like it’s running level (similar depth in the bow deck and stern deck). Tip: Once you are happy with your rigger placement, you can use the provided anodizing plugs (black plugs in your spare parts bag) to mark the holes on either side of you rigger for easy location when you de-rig and rig again. - Page 16 ¼” Washer ¼” Lock Washer ¼” Nut ¼” Bolt Tip: Using the box end (closed end) of the wrench lessens the risk of damage to the hull. The sharp edges of the open end can easily scratch, or damage the hull if it slips. The other option would be to use a 7/16”...
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Page 17: Spread (Sculling)
Place this number on the tape on the gunnel in line with the pin (this effectively puts • the end of the tape at the centerline of the boat). Measure straight out to the pin (not up and on an angle), and adjust. To make small... - Page 18 precise adjustments, try tapping the base of the pin with the wrench. Measure again to see that you’ve adjusted it properly. Tighten the pin with a ¾” wrench, as tight as manually possible. • Check that tightening did not move the pin. •...
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Page 19: Height
1x’s and the Lightweight 2x, so the measurement procedure will differ from the rest of the boats. To measure and adjust oarlock height in any boat where the seat sits above the gunnel (all 1x’s and the Lightweight Women’s 2x): Place a straight edge across the gunnels in line with the pins (or another consistent •... - Page 20 Tip: If you look closely at the yellow speed washer, you’ll notice one face is flat, and the other has a shoulder (ridge) on it. The shoulder is designed to fit around the washers and the pitch bushings. If you find the oarlock is hard to turn, check to see if two of these shoulders are sitting against each other.
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Page 21: Pitch
Pitch Every standard rigger comes out of the factory at 0 degrees stern pitch, and 0 degrees lateral. Using pitch bushings (CII) you can set the pitch from 1 degree through 7 degrees. Every oarlock comes with 4 degrees inserted, which is usually a good place to start, unless you know what pitch you use. -
Page 22: Backstay (Sweep)
Please note: Our backstays are angled for the boat they were built for. If the backstay does not lay flush where it meets the boat when the bolt the threads in the top of the pin is tightened, it has to be bent to fit. Otherwise you risk damaging the pin. Fine adjustments can be made to... -
Page 23: Slides
However, if you set the finish position, and then set the slides this will have to wait until you are in the boat. Once the feet position has been established, slide to the catch and finish position. If you are hitting either end, you can loosen the four wing nuts under the deck to move the slides. -
Page 24: Steering (2-/4-X)
Our pairs and straight fours are equipped with steering controlled by rotating the right foot of the steering shoe assembly. Hudson boats come ready to be steered by the stroke or the bow. Additional seat options can easily be accommodated upon request. - Page 25 To move the steering from the stroke seat to the bow seat: Loosen the ¼” bolt on the back of the toe with a 7/16” wrench. • Draw the cables out of the toe, cable termination blocks, and the sleeving. •...
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Page 26: Cleaning
Fill half a bucket with water and the appropriate amount of soap. • Dump a soft cloth or wash mitt in the bucket and clean a section of the boat, then • shake it out in the bucket often to prevent scratching the surface. -
Page 27: Lubrication
LUBRICATION The only part that requires lubrication on your boat are the wheel bearings, (they are sealed to keep the grease that protects the bearing from escaping). The bearings can be repacked in grease, but in general it is much easier to replace them. -
Page 28: Storage
It is also important to ensure that the boat is properly supported when in storage. Ideally at least one end of the cockpit is supported. (see photos below) O.K. -
Page 29: Faq's - Rigger Dimensions
(see stamping below left). The best way to measure the rigger off the boat is to find a level floor, press down in between the boat mounts, and measure from the floor up to the top of the pin block (see below right). -
Page 30: Sculling
(see stamping below left). The best way to measure the rigger off the boat is to find a level floor, press down inbetween the boat mounts, and measure from the floor up to the top of the starboard pin block(see below right). -
Page 31: Faq's - Changing Wheels/Bearings
FAQ’S – CHANGING WHEELS/BEARINGS How do I change a worn out wheel or bearing? To swap out a wheel and bearing assembly is fairly straightforward. The only tool you need is a flathead screwdriver (and maybe a pair of vise grips to keep the axel from spinning if the bolt is a bit tight). -
Page 32: Faq's - Replacing The New Fin
FAQ’s – Replacing the new fin How do I replace the new fin? Our fins have always been designed to break away under impact. Our new fin/finbox system make the fin immediately replaceable, as they do not require silicone to keep them in place. Begin by clearing the fin slot of any old silicone (and the tab of the broken fin), and removing the set screw. - Page 33 Then tip the stern end down into the slot, and slide the fin to the stern. This will lock the stern end of the fin in. Using the provided allen key, you can replace the set screw to keep the fin from sliding out. While if is not necessary (as the fin box is sealed), you can use silicone to streamline the area.
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Page 34: Faq's - How To Lift And Carry The Boats
2-/x – It is most common to lift and carry the 2-/x ~ 5 feet from the ends of the boat. Some prefer to have the side of the hull cradled on their arm or on their shoulder, and others rather have the deck flat on their shoulder. - Page 35 1930 Mallard Rd. London, Ontario, Canada N6H 5M1 519-473-9864 www.hudsonboatworks.com...
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Questions and answers
At duxbury bay maritime school, we have an old hudson training quad. the stroke rigger has a removable plate. Does this go on the top or bottom of the assembly? The plate seems to have to be manipulated to fit properly onto the shell. Is one starboard and one one port?