Saddle Position - Jamis Bicycle Owner's Manual

clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you'll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum
of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you'll use off road should give you
four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension
is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your saddle position as described in B
without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the "Minimum Insertion" or
"Maximum Extension" mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from
your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank arm is
parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for
the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the
pedal, the saddle is too low.
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Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your
own saddle height adjustment:
• loosen the seat post clamp
• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
• re-tighten the seat post clamp to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer's
instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post does not project from the frame beyond
its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum Extension" mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see whether
the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it
instead of the "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum Extension" mark to make sure the seat post is inserted in the
seat tube far enough to be visible through the sight hole.
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described in B.1 above, the seat post
may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to
set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own front and back
adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of
the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer's instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little.
Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you have a
single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on the mechanism
to disengage before changing the saddle's angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer's instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the
serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle to move,
causing you to lose control and fall.
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