Download
Share
Print this page
BENETEAU First 18 Assembly Manual
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. BENETEAU Manuals
  4. Boat
  5. First 18
  6. Assembly manual
BENETEAU First 18 Assembly Manual

BENETEAU First 18 Assembly Manual

Hide thumbs

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
BENETEAU FIRST 18 ASSEMBLY MANUAL
VERSION 2.0
June 2020
PREAMBLE
Dear new owner,
Congratulations on your new Beneteau First 18 and welcome to the First family of passionate sailors!
We hope you are going to enjoy sailing her as much as we enjoyed in her creation. Although she is
very simple in concept, we believe that process of discovering her potentials will give you plenty of
satisfaction and fun for many years.
This assembly manual was written with one single goal – to make your first interaction with your
brand new Beneteau First 18 as easy, smooth and enjoyable as possible. It's leading you through the
rigging of the boat in by our experience the most practical steps.
Assembly Manual is not replacing the Owner's Manual, which is the official document delivered with
the boat. Please read it carefully and familiarise yourself with the boat before using it.
We would love to hear back from you!
You're reading the second version of Beneteau First 18 Assembly manual, and it is possible parts of
the manual will not be clear or even confusing. We encourage you to give us your valuable feedback
and would like to hear back from you about your experience. You can contact Tit Plevnik on
t.plevnik@beneteau-group.com.
A lot of joy with your new boat and fair winds!
First Team

Advertisement

loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the First 18 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for BENETEAU First 18

Summary of Contents for BENETEAU First 18

  • Page 1 This assembly manual was written with one single goal – to make your first interaction with your brand new Beneteau First 18 as easy, smooth and enjoyable as possible. It's leading you through the rigging of the boat in by our experience the most practical steps.
  • Page 2 1. PREPARATIONS Initial assembly of First 18 in the standard configuration in a team of two persons will take you at around 4 hours. All consecutive assemblies are considerably quicker and should after some practice take you 30­60 minutes. First, find yourself a flat and smooth place; ideally, you would do it on the grass. In case you are...
  • Page 3 1. Use a shackle key or small screwdriver to release one side of the Retainer Clip. Use a finger to hold the other side of the Retainer Clip in place. 2. Remove the free end of the Dyneema® Link from its recess in the head of the block. 3.

  • Page 4: Manual Mode

    Blocks: Sand, salt and other factors may damage the ball bearings and blocks. It is important to rinse all blocks with freshwater and clean them with a gentle soap. Lubricate bearings with Teflon-based lubricants. Never use oil-based lubricants or petrochemical products. Orbit blocks Ratchet mode application MANUAL MODE 1.
  • Page 6 Opening of the boat The entrance of First 18 is closed with black GRP plastic cover and vertical plexiglass, both locked with wire and numeric lock. The wire is on the top fixed around the mast foot and on the bottom locked on the hiking straps attachment point on the cockpit floor.
  • Page 7 Code at the delivery is set to 0000. Precisely align all four numbers in line with white marks and open the lock by pressing the black button on the bottom.
  • Page 8 To change the code on your unique 4-digit number, please follow the instructions of the lock supplier.
  • Page 9 Entrance plexi and on-deck hatch may be still protected with the protection folio. Check both sides of the plexi and hatch and if folio is still installed, remove it altogether.
  • Page 10 2. STANDARD EQUIPMENT OVERVIEW 2.1 Mainsail and boom equipment Mainsail connected parts (from left to right and from top to bottom): 2x mainsail A-frame Dyneema ropes with spliced ends, 3x Ronstan RF55101 blocks, 1x Ronstan RF55111 block, 2x spliced Dyneema loops, 1x textile vang strap, 1x Ronstan RF35101 block, 1x Ronstan RF45101 block,...
  • Page 11 1x Dyneema rope with a double overhand knot on one side 1x vang purchase rope, red-white 2x mainsail reefing shackle with a soft shackle 1x twisted mainsail halyard shackle, 1x cunningham purchase rope, black-white, 1x mainsail sheet, red-black. 2.2 Jib system equipment Jib system connected parts (from left to right and from top to bottom): 1x Ronstan RF5121 trapeze cleat, 1x Bartels swivel...
  • Page 12 Gennaker system connected parts (from left to right and from top to bottom): 1x snuffer bag 2x gennaker sheet (grey-blue, tapered) 2 m 1,5 mm Dyneema rope for snuffer fixation on the ring 2 m 3 mm nylon rope for snuffer cabin fixation 1 m 3 mm nylon rope for snuffer aft fixation 1x Ronstan RF25100 block with lashing rope 2x Ronstan RF56100 block with ratchet...
  • Page 13 Shrouds and halyards connected equipment (from left to right and from top to bottom): 1x set of shrouds (2x side shroud, 1x forestay) 4x velcro safety pin 1x set of open spanners, sizes 6 mm, 12 mm and 13 mm 1x 6 mm Allen key 1x mainsail halyard (red) 1x gennaker halyard (green)
  • Page 14 2.6. Steering system equipment Steering system connected parts (from left to right and from top to bottom): 2x First 18 rudder blade 2x 0,5 m 6 mm nylon rope with a double overhand knot on one side 1x Ronstan RF3132 tiller extension...
  • Page 15 Keel system connected parts (from left to right and from top to bottom): Assembled keel safety pin Spare keel safety pin screw Spare keel-plug 2.8. Standard North Sails set of sails From left to right: gennaker in the sail bag jib with battens, batten loader and sail bag mainsail with battens, tensioning key, batten tensioners, protective stickers and sail bag...
  • Page 16 3. Deck preparation 3.1. Jib furler Check that the jib furler drum opening is adjusted slightly on the starboard side when attached on the forestay chainplate. In case the drum opening is not facing on the black plastic leading eye on the deck, it can be adjusted by opening the nuts on the bottom of the furler.
  • Page 17 Attach jib furler to the bow chainplate and secure the pin with G-ring (it should be placed on the inside, facing backwards). Tape the pin with the electrical tape.
  • Page 18 Fix the jib furling line on the drum with an overhand knot, as shown on the picture. Neatly furl the rope into the drum until it's almost full...
  • Page 19 Pass the furling line through two plastic leading eyes on the deck to the cleat on the cabin. There should be left about 1,5 m of the furling line aft of the cleat. Secure the end of the furling line with a double overhand knot.
  • Page 20 3.2. Vang double block assembly Remove the shackle from the Ronstan RF20202 double block.
  • Page 21 Take 25 cm long Dyneema rope with a double knot on one side. Check that the knot is melted. Lead it through two holes one the mast foot as shown on the picture and attach double block Ronstan RF20202.
  • Page 22 Pass the rope in the same way through the holes on the opposite side. Secure the end with a double overhand knot as close to the mast foot as possible and melt the end.
  • Page 23 Advice: the Dyneema ropes tend to slip, and you should always make melted double overhand knots at the end of lines. Without melted ends, knots would open under load. Thread the soft shackle through the middle hole of the mast foot. 4.
  • Page 24 Side shrouds can be identified by the terminal on one side and the eye attachment point of the other. Both side shrouds are identical and can't be mixed.
  • Page 25 Warning: damaged and/or visibly bent wires have reduced working load and can break under tension. Before every stepping of the mast, carefully check that the wires are not damaged. Attach the jib swivel on the stainless steel ring of the textile loop at the shrouds attachments. Correctly turned jib swivel will have Bartels branding legible when the mast is stepped.
  • Page 26 4. 2 Halyards assembly Before installing any ropes, unwind them and make sure they are entirely untwisted. That's is especially important for the halyards. Jib halyard Lead the jib halyard through the jib swivel, just above the forestay eye. Pull the halyard halfway through and fix both ends on the gooseneck.
  • Page 27 Pass and fix one end of the mainsail halyard on the top of the mast as shown on the picture. Attach the mainsail twisted shackle.
  • Page 28 Pull the mainsail shackle to the gooseneck and attach it on the boom axe. Pass the other, free end of the mainsail halyard along the mast and through the bottom starboard swivelling cleat on the mast foot. Tension the halyard and secure the loose end with a double overhand knot.
  • Page 29 Nicely coil remaining halyard for easier handling and stepping of the mast. Gennaker halyard Start leading the gennaker halyard through the top starboard swivelling cleat on the mast foot. It's easy to recognise it because it's turned upside-down, compare to the other two swiveling cleats. Pass the halyard on the inside of the textile forestay loop and through the pre-fitted block.
  • Page 30 Warning: Make sure that the halyard lead from swivelling cleat to the redirection block pass inside the forestay dyneema loop! Rotate bottom two swivelling cleats forward and provisionally fix them with the cunningham dyneema rope, to prevent cleats from jamming and breaking during the mast stepping procedure. You can also fix the block with electrical tape.
  • Page 31 4.3. *OPTION - Windex If Windex option is ordered, assemble it in this stage and be careful you don't damage it during stepping of the mast. 5. Mast stepping 5.1. Preparations Before stepping the mast, make sure all the halyards and shrouds are set correctly and that they are not tangled.
  • Page 32 First, remove the mast foot axe and leave it on the cabin, next to the mast foot. Turn the swivelling cleat aft of the mast base on port or starboard. If you keep it in the middle, it will collide with the mast and get damaged.
  • Page 33 Open the terminals almost completely with threads just sticking out of the turnbuckle. Try to have approximately the same number of turns on both sides of the turnbuckle. Advice: it's highly recommended to apply some marine grease on the threads of the turnbuckles. 5.2 Mast stepping procedure We recommend stepping the mast in the team of two;...
  • Page 35 Lead the wires between the rudder boxes and cockpit freeboards. These will prevent wires from catching during stepping of the mast. Once again check that the shrouds are not tangled around the mast and are free all the way to the attachments on the mast.
  • Page 36 following the instructions from the person in the cockpit. Insert the mast axe and secure it with the G-ring. Warning: At this stage, the mast must be at least horizontal, or held with the masthead slightly elevated. Lowering the mast too much will damage the swivelling cleat on the cabin.
  • Page 37 The person in the cockpit steps back to the middle of the cockpit and continuously raise the mast to the upright position until the shrouds will stop the hoist. During stepping of the mast, the person on the groud checks that the shrouds and terminals are free and not jammed.
  • Page 38 While the person in the cockpit holds the mast upright, the person on the ground check that forestay is not tangled around side shrouds or the mast.
  • Page 39 The person on the ground attaches the forestay on the 4-hole plate. Choose the free hole opposite to attachment on the furler. Before tensioning the shrouds, rotate the mast axe so that the handle is completely covered with the mast base. It will prevent catching of the ropes in the manoeuvres.
  • Page 40 Push toggles on both sides inwards, so extra space in the toggle will be on the inside of the chainplate. It will prevent catching of the gennaker sheets in the manoeuvres. Tension the turnbuckles equally on both sides, starting with your hands. Ensure that the top wires don't turn, while adjusting the rig tension and always use supplied 6mm open spanner to hold it.

  • Page 41: Wind Range

    Count the number of turns to achieve an approximately equal number of turns on port and starboard side. Finish the trim with supplied keys and tension gauge to the base trim tension of 36. SHROUD TENSIONS FRESH HEAVY WIND RANGE MEDIUM EXTREMELY LIGHT...
  • Page 42 Mast stepping without assistance of second person Simplicity, design and weight (just 11 kg) of the First 18 mast enables also stepping of the mast alone, without the assistance of the second person. The procedure is very similar to the team of two persons, described in this chapter, with few differences.
  • Page 43 6. Mainsail controls 6.1 Boom assembly Fit the boom on the gooseneck and insert the bolt.
  • Page 44 Secure the bolt with the nut. * OPTION INSTRUMENTS BRACKET: If instruments bracket is ordered, it replaces the nut under the boom, while the screw stays the same. 6.2 Mainsheet assembly Attach the spliced dyneema a-frames on the Wichard u-bolts on both sides of the stern, by pulling one end through the spliced loop, so-called cowboy-knot.
  • Page 45 Connect both ends of a-frame on RF55111 block with simple attachment at 90°. Make sure you lead the ropes on top of the carbon tillers and properly close the retaining clip of the block.
  • Page 47 Next step is attaching two RF55100 blocks at the end of the boom. One is attached directly on the bottom stainless steel attachment point. Second is attached on the Dyneema loop lead through the top stainless steel attachment point. Both blocks should be attached with a twisted Dyneema link - attachment at 0°.
  • Page 48 Attach the mainsail halyard at the end of the boom and lift it to the horizontal position. Unwind the mainsail sheet and start to lead it in through the swivelling cleat on the cockpit floor. Swivelling block on the floor has ratchet function, so make sure you start in the right direction. Check arrow on the block, which indicates the right direction of the rope.
  • Page 49 Lead the mainsheet through the rest of the blocks as on the picture. Finish with a small bowline knot on the block on the A-frame.
  • Page 50 The mainsail swivelling cleat has few possible adjustments; please check the detailed instructions below. Besides, the mainsheet block on the swivelling cleat has ratchet options. Please see detailed instructions in the first chapter of this manual. 6.3 Vang Lead the black vang strap through the attachment point on the top side of the boom, wrap it around the boom and align both ends.
  • Page 51 Fix Ronstan RF45101 block on the strap ends with the soft shackle. It is not possible to attach the line directly to the kicker block without using a soft shackle.
  • Page 52 Attach spliced dyneema vang purchase on the Ronnstan RF35101 as shown on the picture. Warning: Make sure you always lead the loaded rope through the RF35101 blocks through the hole parallel to the roller axe, not perpendicular on it. Wrong attachment of the rope, can weaken the block and break it.
  • Page 53 Lead the other end of vang purchase Dyneema through RF45101 from stern to the bow and finish on the soft shackle on the mast foot. Position RF35101 block in the middle of the distance between the mast foot and boom attachment, secure the dyneema vang purchase with a double overhand knot and melt the end.
  • Page 54 Unwind vang purchase rope and lead it through the blocks as shown on the picture, starting on the swivelling cleat.
  • Page 55 Finish on the RF35101 with a small bowline knot. 7. Jib controls 7.1 Jib cunningham Lash Ronstan RF5121 trapeze on the only remaining free hole 3 to 4 times with 0,75 cm long 1,5 mm Dyneema rope.
  • Page 56 Finish the lashing with a series of half-hitches and melt the securing overhand knot at the end.
  • Page 57 Fix the »Jib cunningham« rope on the trapeze cleat with a simple overhand knot, attach square securing clip and secure it with a provisional bow knot. Jib sheets Unwind and untwist both »jib sheets«. Start leading it in on the swivelling cleat on the cabin and through the standing block on the jib traveller car.
  • Page 58 Attach Ronstan RF35101 block and finish in the front hole on the jib traveller car with a simple half- hitch. Repeat the same on the other side leading the jib sheet in front of the mast and connect both RF35101 blocks with the soft shackle,...
  • Page 59 Warning: be careful you install the soft-shackle correctly - through the holes parallel to the axe of the roller! 8. Gennaker controls 8.1 Gennaker retriever line and snuffer Gennaker halyard is on the loose end also gennaker retriever line, which perfectly cleans the cockpit of extra ropes in manoeuvres.
  • Page 60 Finish the lashing with few half-hitches and melted overhand knot at the end of the dyneema rope. Unwind and untwist the gennaker halyard. Lead the halyard from the cleat on the mast directly on the gennaker retriever block you've just fixed. Be careful you lead the gennaker halyard aft of the vang purchase system.
  • Page 61 Advice: in case you need to feed the retriever line into the snuffer bag later, you can help yourself with the tiller extension or sail batten. Fix the snuffer on the ring with 2-meter long dark grey 1,5 mm Dyneema rope (be careful you don't mix it with black 3mm nylon rope, which is for the snuffer fixation on the cabin).
  • Page 62 Tie and tension 1,5 mm dyneema rope all along the ring and finish on the hole on the bottom of the bowsprit bearing. Don't tie last two holes on the snuffer ring, but leave them free, to reduce friction between the snuffer and the bowsprit.
  • Page 63 Fix the aft end of the snuffer bag on the same attachment point as for the gennaker retriever block. Use 1 meter long 3 mm black nylon rope. Apply medium tension. Advice: in case you are rigging the boat a few times in a season, for snuffer fixation we suggest using bow knot, which can be easily untied.
  • Page 64 sagging when sailing on the port in stronger winds. Advice: if you have Teflon lubricant we suggest lubricating the snuffer entrance ring and bowsprit bearings on this point.
  • Page 65 8.2. Gennaker sheets Attach two RF45101 blocks on the Wichard U-bolts on the stern. Use attachment at 90° (straight dyneema link) and be careful to attach them on the front side of the mainsail a-frame dyneema rope. Attach two RF56100 blocks on the attachment points on the edge of the deck. Be careful to turn them correctly because of the ratchet function (check the arrow on the block for help) and use an...
  • Page 66 attachment at 0° (twisted Dyneema link). Lead-in the gennaker sheets, starting with tapered end (grey colour) through RF56100 ratchet blocks. Again check that the ratchet function work in the right direction – it should block the rope when you are releasing it.
  • Page 67 Continue through the RF45101 block on the stern from inside-out. Make sure gennaker sheet is lead on the outside of the shroud and provisionally tie it on the bow.
  • Page 68 Repeat the same on the other side. Secure both ends of the gennaker sheets with half-bow knot approximately 70 cm before the end of the rope and cleat them. The knot prevents slipping of the gennaker sheets through the blocks, but still enable complete easing of the sheet under tension.
  • Page 69 9. Deck equipment 9. 1 Hiking straps Warning: hiking straps are important safety equipment of First 18. Be particularly careful when attaching the hiking straps and always secure attachments with melted overhand knots. Failing of hiking straps attachment can result in the men-over-board situation.
  • Page 70 25 cm, measuring the highest point the hiking strap can lift from the cockpit floor. Advice: First 18 Class rules define maximum hiking straps length in C 2.2. e) point: The foot straps shall be adjusted so, that they do not lift for more than 50cm from the cockpit floor at any location.
  • Page 71 Fasten the elastic cord at the back of the hiking strap. Use dedicated, smaller attachment points on the hiking strap, as shown in the picture. Lifted and stretched hiking straps will be easier to hook with...
  • Page 72 your feet. Steering system Rudder blades need rope handles for easier operations. Install 0,5 m long 6 mm black nylon rope with a double overhand knot through both holes on the top of each rudder blade.
  • Page 73 Secure the end with double overhand knot. Warning: Never leave rudder blades in the water for longer periods of time! Remove rudder blades out of the water after every sailing day! Rudder-boxes design allows you to remove the blades out of the water easily. Because rudder blades are not meant to be protected with epoxy and antifouling, they'll form water bubbles under the gelcoat if left in the water.
  • Page 74 Advice: we recommend removing the tiller extension when the boat is not in use or hooking it for the mainsail sheet to keep it vertically. Both will significantly decrease the wear of the rubber joint and increase its life-time. *OPTION - ROPE BAGS Attach the rope bags on the installed attachment points.
  • Page 75 Secure each attachment point with plastic locking flap, as shown on the picture. 10 SAILS For the sails assembly, you need a flat surface. Ideally, you would do it on the carpet or grass. In case you are assembling the boat on the concrete or asphalt, we strongly suggest using some protection materials for the rigging of the laminate sails.
  • Page 76 10.1 Mainsail Assembly Unfold the sail, unpack the battens and remove the batten key front the clew. All mainsail battens are tapered on one side. Insert the battens in the pockets with tapered end leading the way. Batten pockets opening is on the leech of the mainsail.
  • Page 77 Check that all battens are properly fitted into the batten-pocket ends along the boltrope. Adjust the screws of all batten tensioners, so they are flat with the top. Attach batten tensioners on the battens, press them in and hook them for both of the webbings. Help yourself with the multitool or pliers.
  • Page 78 Push-in the batten tensioner and gently turn the screw clockwise. First, you want to achieve base tension, which is taking the slack out of the system. You should stop when the battens start to work against the webbings. At the base tension, the battens will not bend in the pocket yet. After achieving the base tensions of the battens, trim the battens according to the table below.
  • Page 79 Batten number (top-down) Number of full 360° turns (clockwise) After first rigging and few sailing days, materials will slightly stretch and you will lose the tension in the battens. You will very likely need to increase the tensions again. If you are in doubts, lose the battens back to the base tension and trim them according to the trim-guide above.
  • Page 80 Batten pockets are opening from the top. All three battens are identical. Insert them into the pockets with square end leading the way. Make sure the whole pocket is straight and press them all the way into the pocket.
  • Page 81 Insert the batten loader on the velcro strap and press it into the pocket over the batten-end. Be careful that the white loop stays outside of the batten pocket.
  • Page 82 Batten is secured and tensioned with velcro inside the pocket. Push the batten loader in with medium force and lock the velcro with your hand. Repeat it for all three battens. Removing of the battens If you need to fold the jib for winter storage or transport, removing of the battens is recommended. To do so, open the velcro pocket by pulling the white loop.
  • Page 83 11.1. Setting the JIB Jib halyard on First 18 is continuous and hidden into the zip pocket on the leading edge of the jib. Both ends of the halyard are fixed on the jib head and extra rope pulled into the zip pocket.
  • Page 84 Tie the other end of the halyard on the same attachment ring on the jib with secured half-hitch. Lead both ropes of the halyard and forestay inside the zip pocket and close it.
  • Page 86 Below the zip, you get a loop – one end for the hoisting of the jib and second end for pulling it down. All following steps are described for the halyard-end hoisting the jib.
  • Page 87 Hoist the jib completely, while closing the pocket.
  • Page 88 When the jib is completely hoisted, attach the jib tack on the furler with Dyneema loop and shackle. Place shackle pin on the starboard side, to save gennaker on drops.
  • Page 89 Tension the jib luff and fold the halyard at the end of the zip pocket. Tie a simple single loop on the halyard.
  • Page 90 Pass the jib cunningham purchase rope fixed on the trapeze cleat through the jib halyard loop and pass it through the roller of the trapeze cleat.
  • Page 91 Finish by leading the jib cunningham purchase through the rectangular clip and secure the end with overhand knot.
  • Page 92 Nicely fold the extra jib halyard in the pocket and close the zip. Clip the safety strap on the bottom of the jib.
  • Page 93 Tension the cunningham. For a start, apply medium tension, better less than too much.
  • Page 94 Tie extra rope of the cunningham around the purchase. Attach the jib sheets on the clew and be careful none of two jib sheets are twisted.
  • Page 95 GENNAKER First 18 featured smart gennaker system with snuffer bag. Gennaker halyard and retriever line are continuous where one end is fixed on the gennaker head and the other end is used as a retriever line. Snuffer system makes hoisting and dropping of the gennaker much easier, but preparation is the key point.
  • Page 96 Unfold the gennaker on the floor. Make sure the surface is smooth and can not damage the gennaker. Luff, easily recognised by the blue edge, should be facing forward. Attach the tack of the gennaker on the bowsprit with the soft shackle. North Sails sticker should be legible.
  • Page 97 Double-check that the gennaker halyard is not tangled on the top and tie it on the head of the gennaker. Gennaker head is usually marked with the ticker, but can also be recognised by joining point of blue end red edge of the gennaker.
  • Page 98 Tie port gennaker sheet on the clew of the gennaker with a bowline knot. You'll recognise it by red edges. Be careful that the sheet is lead outside of the shroud.
  • Page 99 Tie the starboard gennaker sheet on the clew of the gennaker. Make sure the sheet is lead inside of the gennaker halyard, around the jib and outside of the starboard shroud.
  • Page 100 Untie the gennaker retriever line from the bow and lead it under the starboard gennaker sheet and under the whole gennaker. Pass the rope through the bottom attachment point ring and tie it with small bowline knot on the top attachment point.
  • Page 101 Hoist the gennaker and check that the retriever line is not tangled. Pull the gennaker into the snuffer bag. In case you have some wind from the back, open the halyard and focus on the retriever line to rapidly pull it in the snuffer.
  • Page 102 In case of no wind, dropping procedure on land will require some help. Clean the ring entrance of gennaker foot before the gennkaer drop, to prevent damaging the gennaker.
  • Page 103 Because gennaker is brand new and still harder, it's normal that on the start hoists and drops will be a bit harder. MAINSAIL The mainsail can be attached to the boom on the land or later when the boat is already in the water. Last is absolutely recommended in case of stronger winds.
  • Page 104 Round the velcro around the boom. Leave space for one finger in between the velcro and the boom.
  • Page 105 Lead the outhaul through the stainless steel ring and finish on the attachment point at the end of the boom. That's how you'll gain 2:1 purchase. Fasten the outhaul on the attachment point.
  • Page 106 Check that the mainsail halyard is not tangled. Warning: In case that the mainsail is tangled you may experience problems while taking the mainsail down. If the halyard is twisted several times you will not be able to release it and recover the mainsail.
  • Page 107 Attach the mainsail halyard for the head of the sail with twisted shackle. On this stage, we recommend to launch the boat and continue with the last few steps of cunningham assembly after you hoist the mainsail. In this case, tie folded mainsail with a rope and continue in the chapter Launching of the boat.
  • Page 108 tack of the mainsail will be straight, without folds.
  • Page 109 When adjusted, secure the strap with velcro. Cross both Ronstan 20 Series block, spliced on Dyneema ropes over the goosneck.
  • Page 110 Attach both Dyneema ropes on the mast with the shackle. Tie Cunningham purchase rope on starboard eyelet on the mast foot.
  • Page 111 Lead the rope through the blocks and finish on the port swivelling cleat. Congratulation, through all of the steps you've completely rigged your new First 18 and you are ready to launch the boat! We wish you to enjoy each and every minute under the sails!
  • Page 112 SWINGING KEEL SYSTEM Swinging keel system on First 18 is very simple and consist of four main components: stainless steel keel winch Dyneema keel rope (1,5 m, 10 mm rope connecting the winch and the keel, with durable 32- braided cover) redirection block at the mast support the keel.
  • Page 113 Lowering the keel Warnings! Never sail with the keel in any other, but completely lowered, sailing position – 16,5 - 17 turns from the upmost position. Only in this position, the keel is securely fixed in the keel-box. Even though the force on the handle is reasonably small, hold it strongly at all times. If it will slip from your hand during lowering of the keel with the clutch in unlocked mode, it will unwind rapidly and can seriously hurt your palm.
  • Page 114 Leave the clutch in locked mode and winch the keel up. The keel is in completely up position when you can not turn the handle with reasonable force any more. You might even hear the keel touching the top of the keel-box. In case of a shallow mooring place, the boat can be moored with the keel completely lifted.
  • Page 115 4. Install fenders and mooring line before launching of the boat. 5. For easy launching of the First 18, the stern of the boat needs to float. How much you will need to submerge the trailer depends on the angle of the slipping ramp. If the launching ramp is very slight, you might need to use extension rope between the car and the trailer.
  • Page 116 RETRIEVING OF FIRST 18 Retrieving of the boat on the trailer consist of preparation of the boat and the trailer. Trailer preparation: a) Remove the lights from the trailer and pull the electric cable all the way to the front.
  • Page 117 TRANSPORT ON THE TRAILER When transporting your First 18 with the trailer, there are few key points you need to be extra careful about: 1. Keel must always rest on the trailer!
  • Page 118 WARNING: Never transport the boat on the trailer with the keel completely lifted. Keel needs to rest on the trailer during the transport. Transport of the boat with completely lifted keel will damage system components. First, check that the boat is in the centre of the trailer and that the keel is aligned with the resting pad.
  • Page 119 First 18 mast is protected with a UV stable sticker, which will get wrinkled if it comes in direct contact with straps.
  • Page 120 HOISTING & DROPPING OF THE GENNAKER FROM THE SNUFFER Snuffer system is a significant simplification of gennaker use, but only if you follow a few simple steps. GENNAKER HOISTING PROCEDURE: 1. Un-cleat both gennaker sheets and take them out of the rope bags. 2.