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Improper service of dive equipment can lead to severe injury or death. Dive Gear Express recommends that non-qualified individuals seek professional training/mentoring before attempting repairs or servicing on any diving equipment.
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Cleaning and Rinsing - General Considerations (11) Cleaning and rinsing of the components should be done using clean, fresh water. (12) Only use degreasers that leave no organic residue (e.g., Extreme Simple Green, Blue Gold Cleaner, or any clear liquid dish soap that does not contain scents or dyes). (13) To remove corrosion, use a 50/50 vinegar/water solution and nylon brushes.
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Cleaning of Regulator Parts (16) Cleaning of parts that are going to be reused is one of the most critical steps in servicing the regulator. As was stated earlier, use the proper solutions for the job at hand. Removal of hydrocarbons and debris should be accomplished before attempting removal of corrosion.
Inspection After Cleaning (21) Before assembling the regulator, it is necessary to inspect all the cleaned components. Using a magnifying glass or inexpensive USB microscope, ensure all parts are clean and contaminant-free, and check the components for damage that may have been hidden by corrosion or lubricant. Look for scratches that may affect the sealing surfaces of the regulator.
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This involves using a small clean plastic bag containing a small amount of lubricant. The O-ring is inserted into the bag, worked around to evenly coat with lube while squeezing off excess, then taken out of the bag and used in its location - Fig. 2. Fig.
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2. Tool List - Fig. 3 Magnehelic or Other Cracking Effort Gauge Side-Cutting Snips Thin Adjustable or Open End Hose and 11/16” Wrenches 3/16” Hex Key Thin Brass Pick Blunt Brass Pick and Blunt Brass Spade Thin Wooden Dowels Second Stage In-Line Adjusting Tool (Hex Adjusting Tip) Fig.
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3. Preliminary Testing (1) Preliminary testing of the regulator is necessary to identify any problems with the first and second stages and verify overall regulator function. This testing will include: Visual inspection of the regulator Inspection of the hoses Cracking effort and negative pressure test Visual inspection is done to identify issues that could affect servicing and to ensure that pressurizing the system will not compromise the safety of the service technician.
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4. Second Stage Evaluation (1) The negative pressure test verifies the seals of the Diaphragm and Exhaust Valve, confirms proper O-ring seal and verifies housing integrity. With the supply pressure off, and attached to a first stage on a cylinder, attempt a normal breath from the second stage. You should be unable to draw any air. If flow is obtained, remove the second stage from the hose and try to draw air while sealing the hose inlet with your finger.
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5. Second Stage Disassembly (1) Additional tips for performing disassembly of the D6 Second Stage can be found in our video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W12VDuCKOCE (2) Ensure the system is depressurized. The use of small, clean containers to hold parts is recommended. (3) In the following steps, the part numbers from the schematic will be used with their description.
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2. Remove the Heat Sink Nut (05) - Fig. 6. Holding the Lever (18) down, slide/pull the Adjust Tube assembly out of the Main Housing as one unit - Fig. 7. Inspect the Exhaust Valve (11*) by using a pick or dowel and gently press all around the edge to check that it is pliable and not stuck or torn.
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4. Turn the Adjust Knob (27) slightly with the assembly over a flat surface, allowing the Pin (19) to drop out - Fig. 11. This will allow the Adjust Knob to be removed. Remove the O-ring (20*) from the Adjust Tube (17) - Fig.
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6. Holding the Lever upright, use a thin wooden dowel to push the assembly consisting of the LP Seat (21*), Piston (22), O-rings (23*), Main Spring (24), and Balance Cylinder (25) out of the Adjust Tube. You may hear a slight click as you do this when the LP Seat end passes the Lever. Remove the Lever from the Adjust Tube - Fig.
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8. Use the hex end of the In-Line Adjusting Tool or 3/16” hex wrench to loosen the Orifice (13) in the Adjust Tube. Push the Orifice out with a thin wooden dowel from the threaded end. Do not use a metal tool.
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10. With side-cutting snips, carefully cut the Tie Wrap (02*) holding the Mouthpiece (03) - Fig. 20. Remove the Mouthpiece and check that the Main Housing (01), Exhaust Cover (12) and Exhaust Valve (11*) are undamaged and free of debris. The Exhaust Cover is not usually removed during service. The cover is fitted in such a way at the factory that removing it is likely to damage the Cover.
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(4) The photographs below show the disassembled second stage - Fig. 22 and the Service Parts Kit - Fig. 23. All the parts not in the service kit need to be washed, rinsed and dried, as discussed previously. O-rings and washers that will be replaced with new from the service kit should be discarded. Fig.
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6. Second Stage Assembly (1) Additional tips for performing reassembly of the D6 Second Stage can be found in our video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alL4njr5kxI (2) Before starting the assembly of the second stage, complete a thorough inspection of all parts to be reused.
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2. Assemble the Balance Cylinder (25), Main Spring (24) and Piston as shown in Fig. 26. Fig. 26 3. Place the O-ring (14*) on the Orifice (13) - Fig. 27. Insert the Orifice into the Adjust Tube (17) using the 3/16” hex - Fig. 28. Fig.
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4. Turn the Orifice clockwise into the Adjust Tube 4-5 turns until the threads have engaged - Fig. 29. Fig. 29 5. Lubricate the O-ring (20*) and place it in the groove on the Adjust Tube (17) - Fig. 30. Fig.
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6. Insert the Piston assembly (21*-25*) into the Adjust Tube, noting the step's orientation on the Piston and the air outlet of the Adjust Tube - Fig. 31. Fig. 32 shows how it should appear as the step passes the air outlet opening. Fig.
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8. Install the Lever, being careful to not rotate the assembly. Do not tilt the assembly as this may cause the Piston to move and the Lever not to engage the step - Fig. 34. Fig. 34 9. Install the unlubricated O-rings (28* and 30*) on the Knob Adjust Core (29) and insert the Core in the Adjust Knob (27) and press into place.
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10. Take the assembled Adjust Knob - Fig. 36 and insert it into the Adjust Tube and begin to screw it in - Fig. 37. Fig. 36 Fig. 37 11. Screw the Adjust Knob assembly into the tube until you can see clearly through the hole for the Pin (19).
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12. Place the Pin into its hole once the Adjust Knob is screwed in far enough to see clearly through the opening - Fig. 39. Position the Pin evenly so that equal amounts are visible on each side - Fig. 40. Fig.
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14. Hold the Lever down and slide the Deflector Knob over it onto the Adjust Tube - Fig. 42. Slide it on to cover the Pin - Fig. 43. Rotate the Deflector Knob and the Adjust Knob to ensure they move smoothly. Fig.
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16. Install the O-ring (04*) and the Heat Sink Nut (05) on the Adjust Tube - Fig. 46. Fig. 46 17. Carefully tighten the Heat Sink Nut to secure the Adjust Tube - Fig. 47. Do not overtighten. Fig. 47...
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18. Using the In-Line Adjusting Tool, while depressing the Lever, turn the Orifice so that the Lever is barely above or even with the face of the Housing - Fig. 48. Only turn the Orifice when the Lever is depressed to avoid cutting the LP Seat. This is the preliminary adjustment of the cracking pressure. The final adjustment will be made with the tool when the second stage is pressurized.
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20. Install the Cover assembly (08, 09, and 10) - Fig. 51. Reinstall the Mouthpiece (03) and secure it with the Tie Wrap (02*). Adjust as needed and use the snips to trim the end of Tie Wrap. Fig. 51 This completes the assembly of the D6 Second Stage.
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7. Second Stage Testing and Adjustment (1) Second stage testing and adjustment can be accomplished by using a regulated supply or any cylinder of air. There is no required supply pressure due to the second stage being supplied by a first stage delivering air at the Intermediate Pressure (IP).
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8. Testing for Cracking Effort (1) Cracking effort is the suction required to depress the lever and allow air to flow through the second stage. It is measured in inches of water. A magnehelic gauge is one method of measuring this pressure. The gauge is attached to the second stage, and a normal breath is taken.
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(4) General Troubleshooting – Not all possibilities may be noted. No airflow Check supply pressure; Orifice too tight; Lever not seated and has dropped Free Flowing Orifice adjusted too loosely; LP Seat bad; excessive IP Hard to inhale Lever bent or restricted; adjusted with a too high cracking pressure Wet breathing Cracked Main Housing;...
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