Summary of Contents for Top Flite Models SPITFIRE Mk IX
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™ WARRANTY..Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Mount the fin and stab ........36 PROTECT YOUR MODEL, Finish framing the fuselage.......37 AND BUILDING SEQUENCE YOURSELF & OTHERS Mount the tail wheel assembly......38 Prepare the fuse for sheeting ......39 FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT INTRODUCTION ..........3 Sheet the bottom of the fuse......40 PRECAUTIONS...........3 SAFETY PRECAUTION FINAL CONSTRUCTION ........41...
But don’t PRECAUTIONS Your Top Flite Gold Edition Spitfire Mk IX is worry. Once you join the tail surfaces to the fuse, add intended for scale and general sport flying the cowl and spinner, then glue the wing tips to the 1.
larger prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable for RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR FLAPS scale realism. Many .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-stroke engines produce about as much horsepower as the You may build your Spitfire either with fixed or Your Spitfire is designed to incorporate scale split popular .75 [12.0cc] 2-stroke engines and will fly the retractable landing gear.
3-1/2" [89mm] Main Wheels (ROBQ1516) Edition Spitfire Mk IX is 1:7, or one-seventh scale. but you could make your own from MonoKote film if you decide to try another trim scheme. You should (2) 3/16"...
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES always the top main spar even if the wing is METRIC CONVERSION upside down when you are working on it. 1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor) • Similarly, move the former up means move the There are two types of screws used in this kit. former toward the top of the fuselage even if the 1/64"...
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES BUILD THE STAB 1. Use your own method or the Hot Tip that follows to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheets together to make a 6" x 30" [152 x 762mm] sheet for the top and bottom stab skins.
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2. While you’re making skins, make a 6" x 15" 8. Use the stab skin template on the plan to [152 x 381mm] fin skin by cutting a 1/16" x 3" x make the top and bottom stab skin from the 1/16" 30"...
BUILD THE ELEVATORS Note: The die-cut elevator bases included in the kit have one large lightening hole instead of the two smaller ones shown in the instruction manual photos. This is to reduce the weight in the tail. Start with the left elevator. 1.
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12. Round the leading edge of the stab as shown on the cross section of the plan, blending it to the stab tips. CUT HINGE SLOT 13. Carefully break both elevators free from the WITH HOBBY KNIFE stab. Notice which elevator matches which side of AND #11 BLADE the stab.
leading edges. Cut a slot in the leading edge of both elevators to accommodate the joiner wire. Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at one end to cut the slots. 21. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to DRILL A 3/32"...
die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa fin TE on the fin ribs 3. See the following photo and temporarily pin 12. If you haven’t already done so, cut the other and glue it in position. the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] fin skin.
the rudder tip block with the tip of the fin and hold PREPARATIONS 5. Cut the rudder ribs from two 3/32" x 3/8" x it in place with a T-pin. Sand the tip block to match 24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa sticks and one 3/32" the fin.
Perform step 5 only if you are building fixed landing gear (a scale warbird without retracts? Won’t you reconsider?) . 2. Mark rib 4 at the center of the leading edge. Lay a straightedge on the rib across the mark you made and the trailing edge of the rib where it comes to a point.
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set rib 4 at the correct angle. Make sure the 10. Test-fit, then glue the precut 1/16" notches in the ribs for the landing gear rails allow [1.6mm] shear webs to the spars where shown on the rails to go in at an angle as indicated on the the plan.
BUILD THE CENTER SECTION die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo mount plate the line you marked with a 1/8" [3.2mm] space base between the #2 ribs. The holes in the dowel between them (to accommodate center rib 1). plates are closest to the bottom of the wing. 1.
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the forward joiners. If necessary, adjust the 16. Take the center section off of your 20. Position the servo mount plate on the servo notches in the ribs or remove excess glue so the building board. plate base (in the center section of the wing) so joiners fit well.
Perform step 29 only if you are building flaps. 2. Test fit the right wing panel to the center 6. Gather your clamps and cut some paper section the same way. towels into 2" [50mm] squares to wipe away excess epoxy as you proceed. Separate the wing panels.
FIT THE LANDING GEAR landing gear. This will allow it to fully seat in the 5. For now, cut the landing gear wire to a total groove. Test fit the bent 3/16" [4.8mm] wire length of 6" [150mm] (from end to end)—this will be landing gear in the landing gear rail.
rib 8 to the inner TE of both wing panels. Glue the 4. Securely glue both flap bellcrank plates to gussets in position. ribs 4 and 5 as shown on the plan. Note: Study the plan and position the flap bellcranks so both flap pushrods move in the same direction when the servo is actuated.
SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING now!) to make wing skin doublers that fit inside wing in your hand (and without adding any twist to the wheel and retract openings in the bottom skin. the wing), one rib at a time apply a light bead of The doublers fit between the ribs as shown in the medium CA to each rib and press the bottom skin 1.
circle but will be more of an ellipse because of the angle at which the wheel retracts into the wing. Allow at least 1/8" [4mm] clearance between the wheel and the rear of the opening in the wing in case you bend your landing gear on one of those bumpy landings.
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Perform step 15 only if you are installing hatch where shown on the plan. Position the servo Temporarily position a bottom flap skin in its within the lines you marked inside the hatch location on the wing. Temporarily connect the flap retracts.
SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING the tip of the flap. This will keep the wing from bowing when you place weights on it to hold the top skin down. 1. If you haven’t already done so, make the top wing skins as described in steps 1, 2 and 3 on page 23.
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2. Test fit the flap skins to the wing and trim where needed for a good fit. Bevel the trailing edge of the flap skins as shown in the sketch below. 3. Glue the balsa flap skins to your wing. 4.
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21. Test fit the flap to the wing with the hinges. Raise the flap. Enlarge the notches in the Refer to this photo for steps 14 through 18. flap for the hinges or make other adjustments if necessary. 14. Cut the flap LE from a 3/16" x 1/4" x 24" [4.8 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick.
BUILD THE AILERONS 5. Use the plan to mark the location of the 9. Remove the T-pins and take the aileron out aileron ribs on both sides of the aileron base. of the wing. 1. True up the wing sheeting where the ailerons will fit.
working time to align the LE as you bend it to the 15. Return to step 1 and build the other aileron wing; therefore, we recommend using aliphatic the same way . resin and masking tape to hold it in place until the glue dries.
clevis. Connect one end of the pushrod to the BUILD THE FUSELAGE aileron servo arm and the other end to a large nylon control horn. Adjust the length of the FRAME THE FUSELAGE TOP pushrod as shown on the plan. Drill 1/16" [1.60mm] holes in the mounting plate for the Note: We have tried to control horn.
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7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former 1B to the back of 1A. From now on this 4. Starting at the rear with former 10, glue the assembly will be referred to as former 1A. die-cut and laser-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa formers 6 through 10 and the die-cut 1/8"...
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10. See the following sketch and trim the sides of the cockpit floor to match the contour of the instrument panel, former 5 and former 6. 12. Trim the rails to match the contour of the formers the same way you did the cockpit floor. 15.
SHEET THE TOP OF THE FUSELAGE 4. Wet the outside of the upper fuse skin with 7. Glue the left fuse sheet in position. The best isopropyl alcohol so you can carefully bend it into way to do this is one section at a time. First, apply 1.
MOUNT THE FIN AND STAB 5. Position the stab on the saddle with the centerline on top of the stab in the center of the 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other fuse. Place a weight on top of the stab to hold it end of the string and draw an arrow on it.
stab. Trim the leading edge and the sheeting on 18. Blend the dorsal fin to the fuse and fin with both sides of the fin until it fits the stab. If lightweight filler. Don’t try to apply all the filler at necessary, enlarge the opening you cut in the stab one time but build up several thin layers, allowing sheeting so the leading edge of the fin will straddle...
8. Glue four 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 4.8 x 2. Silver solder the brass tube to the tail gear 914mm] stringers and four 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 wire. Drill a 1/16" [1.60mm] hole through the end of x 4.8 x 610mm] stringers in the notches of the the brass tube where shown on the plan.
7. Cut a 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] pushrod 12. Raise or lower the tail gear wire in the nylon guide tube to a length of 29" [735mm]. Sand the bracket until the steering arm is centered in the guide tube with coarse sandpaper so glue will stick slot in the fuse.
Make adjustments if necessary and round the SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE inside corners of the blocks for a finished appearance. Securely glue the wing bolt blocks in Sheet the right side first so it will look like the photos. place with 30-minute epoxy and make small fillets of epoxy around the blocks, where they meet the doublers.
2. Trim the fuse sheeting even with the lower crutches. Test fit the wing on the fuselage. This is the moment of truth! Slightly enlarge the holes in the bottom of former F1 to accommodate the wing dowels if necessary. Trim the balsa fuse sheeting near the leading edge of the wing until the wing fits.
BUILD THE WING FILLET 5. Turn the fuselage over and remove the wing. Cover the middle of the wing with waxed paper so glue will not stick. 6. Remove the fillet bases and apply a mixture of 30-minute epoxy and microballoons to the lower crutches and the fuse side.
10. Blend the fillet to the fillet base and the 5. Now that the fuse is nearly complete, mount 9. Test fit your fuel tank and determine where to fuselage with automotive Bondo, Squadron white a 1-1/4" [32mm] tail wheel to the tail gear and drill the holes in the firewall for the fuel lines.
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from the engine, you must use a long Silicone tube to connect them. We used an Aerotrend 3/4" [19mm] (inside diameter) Silicone tube (AERG2220) with the included spring-sleeve inside the tube to prevent the hot exhaust gas from burning through the silicone. Before you mark the location of the muffler mounting screw holes, temporarily insert a 3/32"...
24. After the filler has fully cured, wet-sand with progressively finer grits of sandpaper. When you’re done, your cowl should look something like the 21. Use 30-minute epoxy or thin CA to apply a 1" one in the photo—just enough filler left to fill in the 27.
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other solvent. Cut twelve 3/8" [9.5mm] long bushings from the white inner pushrod tube, then slide them, evenly spaced, onto both elevator and pushrod wires. Make sure you position the bushings at the ends of the wires so they will not protrude from the guide tubes, or the controls could become jammed during flight.
Refer to this photo for steps 8 through 11. 1. Center the rudder and tail wheel. Use a felt 6. Connect the retract servo to the air control tip pen to mark the rudder pushrod where it valve with the hardware of your choice. We used a 8.
3. Now is the time to install your scale cockpit interior kit. Trim and paint the scale cockpit sides, instrument panel, back and floor according to the instructions included with your cockpit kit. Glue the cockpit floor to the balsa cockpit sub floor. From now on this will be called the cockpit floor.
FINISHING PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING 7. Reinstall the cockpit floor, instrument panel, sides and support rails the same way you did FUELPROOFING 1. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints before. Securely glue all the parts in place with CA. and seams that require filler.
COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTE The larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller pieces. This technique also eliminates the need to cut the covering after it has been applied. It is assumed that you are an intermediate to advanced modeler, so we won’t go into many details on covering techniques, but here are some tips you should consider: 1.
COVERING SEQUENCE FUSELAGE 1. Tail junction strips as described previously 2. Stab tops, then bottoms 3. Fin right, then left side 4. Fuse bottom aft, then front 5. Fuse sides 6. Turtle deck (may be done in one or two pieces) 4.
JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES 7. Mix enough 30-minute epoxy to do one Do not use CA accelerator on any of the flap at a time. Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to hinges and do not glue the hinges with thoroughly coat the holes in one of the flaps and anything but thin CA.
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CANOPY dampened with water before the glue dries. Make 3. Spray paint the canopy frame with fuelproof sure there is no glue on the balsa sticks so you do paint. Make sure the paint will not react with the not inadvertently glue the balsa sticks to the canopy. plastic.
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edge of the wing in the location of the gun. Cut the 3. Use a belt sander or a rotary tool with a brass tube to a length of 1-1/4" [32mm] and glue it sanding drum to trim the propellers along the lines into the wing in the hole you just made (see the you marked to arrive at the correct outline.
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WHEEL COVERS MACHINE GUN COVERS The wheel covers shown on the model on the cover of the box are intended for display, but could Position the finished machine gun blisters on the be left in place for flying if you enlarge the opening wing where shown on the plan.
The second method for applying panel lines is to may experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4” use a Top Flite Smart Stripe ™ to cut narrow strips [6.4mm] forward or 9/32” [7.1mm] back to change of MonoKote film. Iron the panel lines in position. the flying characteristics.
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your wheels to the landing gear with a 3/16" movements as follows. Use a ruler or a Great 7. Take the servo arms off your servos, turn on [4.8mm] wheel collar on both sides of both wheels. Planes AccuThrow ™ Control Surface Deflection your transmitter and center all the trims.
PREFLIGHT RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO Ground check the range of your radio before the first IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club the model and still have control.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 2. Verify the C.G. 14. Use vinyl tape or heat shrink tubing to secure the plugs that connect your servo NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions 3. Secure the battery and receiver with a strip wires to Y-connectors or servo extensions. may result in severe injury to yourself Also secure the plug that connects your of balsa or plywood.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the 9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any TAKEOFF rotating propeller. device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind). If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine switches to “high rate”...
FLAPS Caution (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any If you have flaps, lower them on the downwind leg of unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz”, your approach. Full flaps make the Spitfire very this may indicate control surface “flutter”.
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