Creality CR-10 S5 Complete Setup Manual
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Creality CR-10 S5 Complete Setup Manual

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Complete setup guide for the
Creality CR-10 S5 printer
This guide will try to describe all major and optional upgrades I made to build up a
great 3D printer that makes great prints every time you ask it.
I start from the assumption that you do not have a second printer to print the upgrade
parts, although I would not recommend that anyone start the 3d printing experience
with a S5 printer (walk before run...).
Steps marked as "Highly recommended" are the things I would really, really
recommend doing from day 1. "Optional" steps can be also done from day 1, but if
you defer their build or even never build them, you will not suffer when printing
simple parts that do not demand high grade of printing.
DISCLAIMER: I'm not a professional of 3D printing, just another end user of
this printer, and I try to give a personal and honest feedback on what I did. I
am not responsible of any damage you can cause on your own equipment by
following the advices proposed in these pages.

Highly recommended - Buying the printer with additions

When buying a CR-10 S5 printer, it is recommended to purchase a few additional
components already with it. I would suggest that you buy the following items:
-
Creality extension cables kit (about 60cm long)
-
A set of additional 0.4mm noozles
-
1 or 2 additional hotend silicon sockets
The hardware needed to install the upgrades will be detailed for each upgrade.
Purchasing of screws, nuts and the likes in sufficient quantities is highly
recommended right from the start, so that you don't run all the time to your prefered
hobby shop.

Highly recommended - Unboxing and first build

For the start, I would just say... enjoy your purchase! The S5 printer is a great (also
physically!) printer already out of the box. Packaging is very nice, extras and goodies
are welcome and much appreciated for the price of this printer.
Just find a big space, build it in full and make it ready for your first prints "as is".
There are plenty of videos on Youtube about this, so I'll skip this step here.

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  • Page 1 Highly recommended - Buying the printer with additions When buying a CR-10 S5 printer, it is recommended to purchase a few additional components already with it. I would suggest that you buy the following items: Creality extension cables kit (about 60cm long) A set of additional 0.4mm noozles...
  • Page 2 Highly recommended - First print As many people mentioned on the Internet, this is nearly mission impossible to have a fully flat and level bed on such big printer. For the first prints, and before the bed level is fully fixed and automated with a probe, you must print with a manually levelled bed.
  • Page 3 This is a knob that embeds a nylon locking nut and replaces the stock thumb nut. For this upgrade you need 8 nylon locking nuts in M4 size. Screws are the stock ones reused. So first of all, use you preferred slicing software and make sure you position your print in the area that you have levelled in the front left part of the bed! When print starts, be ready to adjust live the level of the bed to make your first layer adhere well to the glass plate.
  • Page 4 Insert the spring back. Finish screw in the locking nut in the screw. Now the screw should be in place, locked with the locking nut, with the spring loaded and then through the hole in the carriage. Insert a nylon locking nut inside the levelling knob. Screw in the knob at the end of the screw until the plate is low enough IF YOU HAVE ALREADY PRINTED ALL 4 KNOBS: do the same for the other 3 screws...
  • Page 5 forward improving your printer and slowly discover its capabilities, just skip this and move to the next step. If you want to know what manual mesh levelling is about, please read the documentation on this topic, starting from there: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html I personally recommend keeping printing on a small area in the front left corner of this printer for the time being, with the already improved bed levelling knob, and wait for a few more steps before getting to larger prints.
  • Page 6 Every owner of S5 printer seems to have to do that at some point, so do it now! OPTIONS: At this stage, you have again 2 options: 1/ purchase a brace kit from Creality. I understand it involves piercing holes in the frame of the printer, and all accessories are included for that operation;...
  • Page 7 PLEASE NOTE: I could not figure out precisely the size of the bolts that were required to fix the printed parts. I therefore remixed the bottom brace part to accomodate M4x16 cylindrical head screws, and I also enlarged the hole for the M8 nut.
  • Page 8 on the same holder, for various reasons like preparing for a future dual extrusion setup, to anticipate a change of filament at mid-print of for the next print, etc. Here is my remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3737773 Please follow the instructions provided online. Optional –...
  • Page 9 However, as things are never easy, here are specific instructions for the S5 motors: Start with the Y-axis motor. Unscrew 2 of the 4 holding screws and take them with you to work on the X-axis motor. The X-axis motor is held by 4 long screws passing through the plastic cover of the pulley and holding the X-stop trigger.
  • Page 10 untight the screw holding the dented pulley on the motor axis and move the pulley away from the motor by the thickness of the damper place back the motor making sure that the pulley fits inside the belt verify the position of the pulley with regard to the belt and adjust as relevant screw the other side of the damper with 2 M3 short screws and 2 M3 nuts re-tension belt and tighten the screws of the right hand side pulley verify that the bed head moves correctly on the Y-axis...
  • Page 11 the printer frame. The motor will become much much hotter than before. I can only recommend using thermal glue and sticking heat dissipators on the sides of the stepper motors. For the bigger Y-axis motor I’ve used 2 dissipators like this: size is 40x40x11mm, glued on the back and bottom For the smaller X-axis motor I’ve used 7 smaller dissipators : size is 10x10x10mm, glued around the motor case...
  • Page 12 Here is another design for better managing the bowden tube: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984 The author has used this holder for the bowden tube and kept the cable attached to the tube. All solutions are fine, as long as the cable and tube do not touch the parts being printed during...
  • Page 13 be to install a bed levelling probe, there is a significant interest to install this mod now. There are basically 2 options: 1/ you want to keep the stock fan. Then print the “bullseye” base and duct and install the stock fans on it. Easy and straightforward 2/ you want to install a bigger layer fan than the stock one.
  • Page 14 V3.0 probes manufactured before 5 April 2019 do not work properly with Creality printers, at least with mine (which embeds a Creality v2.2 motherboard). Just insist to have it exchanged by your reseller if you’ve one. Privilege the genuine probe over its clones.
  • Page 15 On the pictures the BLTouch cable tube is the one in orange while the stock cable is the black one. Next step is to plug the probe to the motherboard. There is ample documentation online for both probes, including many warning notices related to the proper testing of the probe ABOVE the glass plate and avoiding at any cost a crash of the print head on the glass.
  • Page 16 PERMANENTLY DAMAGED IF YOU REVERSE THE WIRING!!! IN MOST PREMADE CABLES RED IS IN THE MIDDLE AND BROWN ON THE SIDE... When the probe is installed the self-test should pass OK, however the printer cannot yet use it. Testing the good functioning of the probe necessitate an update of the firmware of the printer.
  • Page 17 #define BLTOUCH #define BLTOUCH_V3 When the firmware is successfully flashed, the new name of the printer will be displayed, which will indicate the new firmware is active. New menus will be made available in the navigation tree, like “bed leveling”, and a BLTouch menu among other things.
  • Page 18 On a side note, I have successfully printed flexible filament with both stock and tough extruders through the stock bowden tube, and I therefore did not envisaged to mount the tough extruder as direct extruder, while it is possible to do so. I preferred to leave the print head light and maintain the good print quality achieved at this stage.
  • Page 19 Conclusion The journey to a fully loaded CR10-S5 printer is well advanced now. At this stage the printer has braces, feet, dampers, filament holders, a raised control box, fangs, bed levelling probe, tough extruder and a brand new and tailor-made new firmware that controls all the functions well.
  • Page 20 Appendix – My own Cura 4.1 settings for the S5 printer Parameters in bold are the ones I would recommend to check for every print. Values in bold are the ones I changed from the default values. Parameter name 0.16mm plain 0.25mm plain Other profiles Quality...
  • Page 21 filter out tiny gaps Print thin walls Horizontal expansion Initial layer horizontal expansion Z seam alignment sharpest corner Z seam X Z seam Y Seam corner preference Hide seam Z seam relative Ignore small Z gaps Extra skin wall count Enable ironing Iron only highest layer Ironing pattern...
  • Page 22 Material Default printing temperature 225 for crystal PLA/flex Printing temperature filaments Printing temperature initial layer Initial printing temperature Final printing temperature Default build plate temperature 60 for crystal PLA/flex Build plate temperature filaments Build plate temperature initial layer Flow 100% Initial layer flow 100% Enable retraction...
  • Page 23 Maximum Z speed number of slower layers Equalise filament flow Enable acceleration control Enable jerk control Travel Combing mode Not in skin Retract before outer wall Layer start X Layer start Y Z hop when retracted Cooling Enable print cooling Fan speed Regular fan speed Maximum fan speed...

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