CycloTricity eKit User Manual
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CycloTricity eKit User Manual

E-bike conversion kit
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eKit User Manual
Cyclotricity e-bike Conversion Kit Assembly instructions
May 2020
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Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.

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Summary of Contents for CycloTricity eKit

  • Page 1 User Manual Cyclotricity e-bike Conversion Kit Assembly instructions May 2020 Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 2 The original CycloTricity eKit is constantly evolving based on your feedback and the improvements from the CycloTricity team, the eKit is getting new features and re-configuration of parts for easier assembly. We strongly suggest using the actual online version of this manual when assembling the kit.
  • Page 3 Disclaimer The Cyclotricity eKit is supplied as a set of do-it-yourself parts for the user to install on their bicycle. Because this kit is installed, maintained and operated by the purchaser, Cyclotricity Ltd disclaims any responsibility for injury, damage or any other consequences arising from the use of this product.

  • Page 4: Chapter 1 - Before You Start

    Chapter 1 - Before you start The best way to understand how your eKit works is to connect all the parts together and test them before you mount them on your bicycle. By doing this, you will learn how to wire everything correctly and you’ll have more clarity during the assembly process.
  • Page 5 System-Cable Motor-Cable (Connect the stem of this cable to the (The number of pins may vary depending on the motor you purchased) Controller, not the 4 branches) Don’t worry, these connections are uniquely shaped, so you cannot go wrong. Some cables have arrows on the connections. If so, make sure the arrows are aligned.
  • Page 6 4. Connect the Throttle to the System-Cable The System-Cable Throttle Match the Throttle to Align the arrows and splits into 4 branches. (Yours may look Yellow branch of push them all the way Yellow is for the slightly different) the System-Cable. Throttle.
  • Page 7 If you did not purchase a Display, you would have been provided with a small green cap to connect to the System-Cable instead. Please look into your eKit box carefully. In the absence of a Display, this Cap is necessary for the eKit to function.
  • Page 8 8. Connect the Pedal Assistance System (Optional) to the Controller Controller The Pedal Assistance System is an optional yellow connection on the controller is for extra. Ignore this step if you have not the PAS. If you have not purchased a PAS, you purchased this option.
  • Page 9 9. Review the connections By now, if you have done the previous steps correctly, your eKit should have been wired according to the following diagram: 10. First Test This is the exciting part! We’ll do a first test to verify that power flows through the system: ...

  • Page 10: Chapter 2 - We Are Here For You

    Lost in the instructions? Things didn’t work? Missing parts? Let us know!  You can contact us via our website cyclotricity.com  Or for urgent troubleshooting, we have created an interactive diagnosis tool for you to tackle any issues like a pro! Try it out now: https://www.cyclotricity.com/uk/self-diagnosis...

  • Page 11: Chapter 3 - Tools

    Assembly Now that you have learnt how to power your eKit, it is time to disconnect all the parts so you can mount them on your bicycle. Remember, every bike is different. These instructions are a general guide, some of which may not be suitable in your specific bike/kit configuration.

  • Page 12: Chapter 4 - Mounting The Front Hub Motor

    Chapter 4 - Mounting the Front Hub Motor If your eKit comes with a Rear Hub Motor, skip to the next chapter. 1. Start by turning your bike upside down so it is resting on the saddle and handlebars. 2. Remove the front wheel.
  • Page 13 3. The fork drop-out must be 10mm wide. 10mm drop-outs are standard for the vast majority of forks. However, some drop-outs may be 9mm wide. To enable the motor to fit inside, it is okay to use a metal file to scrape off excess paint and widen the drop-outs to 10mm.
  • Page 14 4. The distance between the drop-outs must be 100mm. 100mm is stadard for the vast majority of forks. If your fork is too narrow, it is okay to stretch it ONLY if your fork is made of steel material. WARNING: Do NOT attempt to widen an Aluminum or Carbon Fiber fork. It will compromise its structural integrity and will pose a safety risk.
  • Page 15 5. Remove your existing tyre, air-tube and protection tape. Place them on the motor wheel instead. (This step is best described visually. If you haven't replaced a tube/tyre on your bike before, you are recommended to watch one of the many video tutorials online).
  • Page 16 7. Insert the motor-wheel into the forks.  IMPORTANT: The correct orientation is crucial. If the fork is resting upside-down, the motor-cable must be pointing in the direction as the above picture. 8. Torque Washer You will notice there is an unusual washer with a small flange sticking out (called torque washer) on the motor spindle.
  • Page 17 9. Washers and nuts are provided on the motor spindle. Tighten them against the outside of the fork drop-outs. 10. Your motor should now be securely tight and can spin freely.  Whether your bike is fitted with Disc brakes or V-brakes, you may need to adjust them now. If you haven’t adjusted brakes before, we recommended searching for a video tutorial online.

  • Page 18: Chapter 5 - Mounting The Rear Hub Motor

    Chapter 5 - Mounting the Rear Hub Motor If your eKit comes with a Front Hub Motor, this chapter does not apply to you. 1. Start by turning your bike upside down so it is resting on the saddle and handlebars.
  • Page 19 3. The fork drop-out must be 10mm wide. 10mm drop-outs are standard for the vast majority of forks. However, some drop-outs may be 9mm wide. To enable the motor to fit inside, it is okay to use a metal file to scrape off excess paint and widen the drop-outs to 10mm.
  • Page 20 WARNING: If you have a carbon fiber fork, do NOT file it. It will compromise its structural integrity. Please return your hub motor kit and consider fitting a Crank- drive motor kit instead. Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 21 4. The ideal depth of the fork drop-outs is 14mm. If your drop-outs are not deep enough (i.e. a portion of the spindle sticks out) you are required to fit a torque arm for your own safety (more on this later). 5.
  • Page 22 6. If your bike is fitted with disc brakes, remove the disc from your wheel and add it unto the motor. Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 23 7. Prepare the Freewheel There are two types of gear cogs; Freewheel type and Cassette type. Here is the difference:  The Rear Hub Motor is only compatible with Freewheels. I.e. threaded cogs. In other words, if your bicycle is fitted with a Cassette, you will need to purchase a Freewheel before you can proceed with installing this Rear Hub Motor.
  • Page 24 If you purchased a separate Freewheel together with your eKit, you can mount it on the motor by hand without any specialist tools. Although you are recommended to keep a Freewheel Remover as part of your toolset for future maintenance.
  • Page 25 8. Freewheel alignment Each bicycle is different. Depending on the frame geometry, the type of freewheel and derailleur you have, you may end up with slight misalignments. Adding spacers before and after the freewheel may be necessary, but not always. Trial and error is the only way to perfect this part of the project.
  • Page 26 The thickness of the spacer depends on the geometry of your derailleur. Therefore, spacers are not included with your kit. Start by adding the freewheel without a spacer for now. If you discover later that your derailleur is unable to reach the large cogs of your freewheel, you can then experiment with spacers until you achieve perfect alignment.
  • Page 27 10. Now, fit the freewheel on the threaded part of the motor like so: The Spindle of the motor has a flange. This must not be below the edge of the freewheel.  This is likely to happen if you have a spacer behind the freewheel. It may also happen if your freewheel has 8 or more cogs.
  • Page 28 You may ‘pancake’ one washer on top of the other until they exceed the edge of the freewheel. This is to prevent the fork drop-outs from rubbing against the freewheel. 11. Add the torque-washer Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 29 12. Insert the motor-wheel into the forks. Ensure the torque-washer fits into the drop-outs from the inside, like so: 13. Torque-arm You are recommended to fit a torque arm for extra safety. Remember, this is a high torque motor, and can be de-restricted for even more power! Depending on the type of bicycle you have, your drop-outs may or may not cope with such power.
  • Page 30 It is therefore safer to use a torque-arm in order to reduce the pressure on the drop-outs.  Torque arms are not provided with the eKit by default as not all bikes need them. If you have an aluminum, carbon-fibre, or a degraded steel frame, you’re recommended to fit a torque arm.
  • Page 31 The motor spindle must fit snugly all the way into the drop-outs, like so: If your drop-outs are not deep enough (See Point 4 in this Chapter), you MUST use a torque-arm. 14. Fitting the Torque-arm Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 32 Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 33 15. Put the chain back around the freewheel and derailleur.  While the bike is upside down, rotate the pedals by hand so the motor starts spinning.  Shift gears and adjust the derailleur if needed. (Adjusting derailleur is best described visually. If you are unsure of how to do that, you are recommended to watch one of the many great video tutorials online).

  • Page 34: Chapter 6 - Fitting The Bottle Battery

    Chapter 6 - Fitting the Bottle Battery Skip to the next chapter if you did not purchase this battery 1. Remove the Battery Holder (First unlock it with the key) 2. Fit the Battery Holder on the down-tube of your frame Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 35  Since each bike is different, the screws shown in this image typically come with your bike. They are not provided with the battery.  If your down-tube does not have provision for a water bottle, a qualified bike mechanic can drill holes into the frame and install threaded rivet-nuts.

  • Page 36: Chapter 7 - Fitting The Frame Battery

    Chapter 7 - Fitting the Frame Battery Skip to the next chapter if you did not purchase this battery 1. Remove the Battery Holder (First unlock it with the key) Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 37 2. Fit the Battery Holder on the down-tube of your frame  Since each bike is different, the screws shown in this image typically come with your bike. They are not provided with the battery.  If your down-tube does not have provision for a water bottle, a qualified bike mechanic can drill holes into the frame and install threaded riv-nuts.
  • Page 38 3. Slide the battery into the holder (and lock it with the key).  Remember, the battery lock is only meant to prevent it from falling off during cycling and should not be regarded as a security lock against theft. We recommend you detach the battery and carry it with you whenever you leave the bike in public places as it is the most expensive part in your product to replace.

  • Page 39: Chapter 8 - Fitting The Pannier Rack Battery

    Chapter 8 - Fitting the Pannier Rack Battery Skip to the next chapter if you did not purchase this battery Pannier Rack Rack fittings Rack rods Battery Plate Battery Charger Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 40 1. Prepare the Rack Rods 2. Assemble the Pannier Rack  Put the Controller inside the plastic compartment and connect the bullet connectors.  If you purchased the 500W Rear Drive Motor, your controller may be too large to fit inside the plastic compartment.
  • Page 41 3. Mount the Pannier Rack on your bike Note: Since each bike is different, the screws (or alternative fittings) shown in this image typically come with your bike. They are not provided with the battery. If you do not have suitable screws for your bike frame, contact your local bike service shop for suitable fittings.

  • Page 42: Chapter 9 - Plastic Controller Box

    Chapter 9 - Plastic Controller Box If your kit did not come with the following plastic housing, this chapter does not apply to you 1. Place the Controller inside the Plastic Box like so: Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 43 2. Connect the Battery bullet connectors:  Ensure the bullet connectors for the battery remain inside the housing. 3. Close the lid of the plastic housing  Ensure the bullet connectors for the battery remain inside the housing so they are protected.
  • Page 44 4. Fasten the lid with screws 5. Use the brackets to mount the box on the Seat-tube of your bike Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.

  • Page 45: Chapter 10 - Velcro Controller Bag

    Chapter 10 - Velcro Controller Bag If your kit did not come with the following Velcro bag, this chapter does not apply to you 1. Open the bag and put the controller cables through the designated hole: Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 46 2. Ensure the bullet connectors for the battery remain on the inside to keep them protected 3. Use the Velcro strips to mount the bag on your frame as you see fit, for example: Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.

  • Page 47: Chapter 11 - Fitting The Pas (Optional)

    Chapter 11 - Fitting the PAS (Optional) If you did not purchase a PAS with your kit, skip to the next chapter. 1. Prerequisites The PAS fits on the Bottom Bracket of your bike. A Bottom Bracket is the spindle that holds your pedal arms. Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 48 Ask your local bike shop to fit a Square Taper type. The length of the spindle should have clearance of 2mm-4mm to allow for the Magnet disc to be fitted. In the meantime, you can proceed with installing the rest of the eKit and use it without PAS for now.
  • Page 49 1. Dismantle the Magnet Disc. 2. Fit the magnet disc around the Bottom Bracket spindle Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 50 3. Fit the sensor on either the down-tube or the seat-tube (pick the tube that allows the sensor to be positioned closer to the Magnet disc) Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 51 4. Ensure the bottom portion of the sensor (the plus sign) can be seen through the crevice of the Magnet disc  Make sure the sensor is as close to the Magnet disc as possible, but not touching it.  If you’ve fitted the PAS correctly, the red light will blink as you rotate the magnet disc passed ...

  • Page 52: Chapter 12 - Handlebar Controls

    Chapter 12 - Handlebar controls 1. Start by removing the grips from your handlebar: Tip: Lift the grip with a screw driver and squirt slippery material underneath. This can be WD-40, bike-oil or even a homemade mix of water and washing up liquid. Hairspray also works great as it acts as a lubricant when wet and as an adhesive when dry.
  • Page 53 If you have regular mechanical brake levers, you can swap them with the e-brakes provided with your kit.  Remove the brake cable from your existing brake levers:  Remove the brake levers: Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 54  Fit the E-brakes on the handlebar and hook the brake cables back:  Adjust the brakes as needed. (If you are unsure of how to do that, you are recommended to watch one of the many video tutorials online). Copyright May 2020 Cycloricity Ltd.
  • Page 55 2. Throttle The Thumb Throttle is a lever that fits on the handlebar to power your eKit. It is the equivalent of a gas pedal on a car.  Mount the throttle on the handlebar:  Before tightening the Throttle screw, consider the positions of the brake levers and any gear shifters you may have.
  • Page 56  The LCD is required if you need to de-restrict the Rear Drive Motors beyond their 250W road-legal setting (for off-road use). If you have purchased a Display with your eKit, go ahead and mount it anywhere you see fit on the handlebar (typically on the left hand side).

  • Page 57: Chapter 13 - Connect The Cables

    (in the same way you did in Chapter 1).  If you did not purchase a Display with your eKit, remember to connect the green cap to the green connector of the system cable instead. ...

  • Page 58: Motor Cable

    2. Motor-cable  Your motor-cable might look slightly different depending on the motor you purchased.  Connect it to the motor.  Find the best route along your bike frame so you can connect it to the controller.  Use zip ties as needed. Be careful not to pinch other cables.

  • Page 59: Chapter 15 - Lcd Display Settings

    sensor. As the magnet disc runs passed the sensor, the light should blink indicating the sensor is registering a reading.  If you are still having technical difficulties, follow the trouble shooting guide on Chapter 2. Chapter 15 - LCD Display Settings Ignore if you did not purchase an LCD Display 1- The LCD has an on/off switch.
  • Page 60 LCD Instructions and Setup  Display under common running conditions Main view Battery indicator Trip time (TM) Level of assistance Current speed Trip distance (DST) 6Km/h assistance power mode (push aid) Riding History Data View Odometer (ODO) Maximum speed (MAX) Total trip time (TTM) Average speed (AVG) ...
  • Page 61 Adjust the maximum speed. (Note: you cannot achieve speeds greater than 25km/h unless you obtain the CycloTricity de-restriction codes after signing the relevant disclaimer. Merely setting a high speed on this step will not unlock the full power of your Rear Drive Kit).
  • Page 62 Chapter 16 - LED Display Settings Ignore if you did not purchase an LCD Display 1- The LED has an on/off switch. This must be switched on for the bike to receive power. 2- If you leave it on without using the throttle, the bike will start giving you automatic assistance as you pedal along (provided you have installed the PAS).
  • Page 63 Release the 6km/h button to suspend this function.  User Setup You will need to configure the following functions on your device: Maximum speed. Wheel diameter (12”-28”). ATTENTION: Not configuring this will result in the LED showing wrong Speed/Distance readings. Speed Setup Press and hold the on/off button to switch the device on.

  • Page 64: Chapter 17 - Things To Remember

    3- Do not leave the charger connected to the mains when not in use. Water Your eKit is rain and splash resistant and can be used in all weathers (within reason). However, it is not water- proof. In other words, the electrical components of the vehicle, such as motor, battery, and controller, must not be submerged in water.

  • Page 65: Chapter 18 - Limited Warranty

    Only use this product in accordance with this user manual. We offer a 1 year warranty on all items inside your eKit box. The warranty only covers technical faults which have not been in anyway caused by the user deliberately or accidentally.
  • Page 66 The Cyclotricity eKit will work with a 36 volt Lithium-ion battery pack only (or 48V for our 1000W+ systems). We strongly recommend the use of a Cyclotricity battery for best compatibility and performance. Water Damage - The warranty does not include damage from power surges, use of improper charger, improper maintenance or other such misuse, or normal wear.

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