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Tying the warp to the beams
After the warp is threaded through the heddles and the reed, the warp ends have to be tied to the
apron rod of the cloth beam. For this job the breast beam should be blocked, otherwise it is
impossible to get an even tension on all warp ends: Every time you tighten a bundle of threads,
the breast will move and release all the other warp ends. When you take the spring cords off the
floating arms, the short cords you installed to connect the arms to the loom will block the breast
beam.
Adjusting the warp tension
Release the warp tension after you have tied the warp to the apron rod of the cloth beam, by
lifting the brake lever of the warp beam.
By attaching the spring cords to the screw heads at the floating arms you can adjust the tension
on the warp: The tighter you tension the cord, the more tension you will get on the warp. Be sure
to adjust about the same tension on both sides.
The warp tension should always be judged with the floating arms in the vertical position. The
arms move to the front when you advance the cloth beam, and move backwards when you lift the
brake lever.
To advance the fabric while weaving, first lift the brake lever. Due to the springs, the breast beam
moving toward to you, will pull some warp from the warp beam. Advancing the fabric using the
cloth beam lever, you will bring the floating arms back in their vertical position. Now the moving
breast beam demonstrates its other feature: The warp tension is automatically the same as it was
before you advanced the fabric.
If you advance the fabric too far, first you have to release the warp tension by lifting the brake
lever, than you can take both the ratchets out of the ratchet wheel of the cloth beam. Turn the
cloth beam back and put in the ratchets again. Now stand at the side of the loom and lift the
brake lever turning the warp beam backwards.
Adjusting the height of the beater
The beater hinges are screwed with their threaded ends into the bottom of the beater supports.
This construction allows you to adjust the beater level: Turn the beater hinges in- or outwards.
The beater height should be adjusted, so that the lower shed just touches the lower beater bar.
So if you use a smaller shuttle for fine yarn, you may adjust the beater a bit higher, because a big
shed is not needed. Always be sure that the beater has the same height at both sides. You can
check this by making a shed and watching the lower warp ends touch the lower beater bar.
The apron rods are marked at the spots
where the cords have to be attached. The
diagram shows the usual loop to do this.
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