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Lada Niva 4x4 Service Manual

Fuel injection
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Lada Niva 4x4
Service Manual
Fuel Injection
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Summary of Contents for Lada Niva 4x4

  • Page 1 You use the information contained with this manual at your own risk. If you're not sure how to do something either don't do it or ask someone who knows about such things. The font of all Lada knowledge can be found at: http://www.lada.co.uk/forum...
  • Page 2 Chapter 3. Power train Clutch The design of the clutch is shown on fig. 3-1. The clutch release fork 11 (fig. 3-1) can be of two types: with a leaf or wire spring. Fig. 3-1. Clutch assembly: 1 - bleeder; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - diaphragm spring rivet; 4 - pressure plate; 5 - clutch disc; 6 - flywheel; 7 - clutch bellhousing; 8 - bellhousing-to-flywheel bolt; 9 - gearbox input shaft;...
  • Page 3 Fault diagnosis Diagnosis Remedy Incomplete clutch release (clutch spin) 1. Excessive gaps in clutch release drive 1. Adjust clutch release drive 2. Buckling of clutch disc (camming action more than 0.5 mm) 2. Straighten or replace disc 3. Roughness on clutch disc friction linings 3.
  • Page 4 Fig. 3-2. Clutch pedal and master cylinder: 1 - pedal cluster mounting bracket; 2 - clip; 3 - clutch pedal servo spring; 4 - clutch pedal return spring; 5 - clutch pedal limiter bolt; 6 - clutch pedal; 7 - pushrod; 8 - protective cap;...
  • Page 5 Fig. 3-3. Slave cylinder and clutch release fork: 1 - release bearing; 2 - ball pivot; 3 - clutch release fork; 4 - pushrod; 5 - adjusting bolt; 6 - locknut; 7 - return spring; 8 - plug; 9 - bleeder; 10 - cylinder body; 11 - sealing ring;...
  • Page 6 Fig. 3-5. Clutch check: 1 - pressure plate thrust flange; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - clutch disc; 4 - ring Master and slave cylinders - removal and refitting First, drain working liquid. To do this, attach one end of the hose to bleeder 9 (see fig.
  • Page 7 Fig. 3-8. Master cylinder components: 1 - body; 2 - sealing; 3 - plug; 4 - gasket; 5 - union; 6 - retaining washer;7 - cap; 8 - circlip; 9 - pushrod piston; 10 - sealing ring; 11 - master cylinder piston; Fig.
  • Page 8 Master and slave cylinders - Clutch master cylinder - bench-check dismantling, inspection, repair and reassembly Checking the leak-proofness of the rear sealing ring. Place the master cylinder on the test-bench (see fig. 3-10), and Master cylinder. Turn out plug 3 (fig. 3-8), remove protective ensure good sealing between the cylinder flange and the surface rubber cap 7 and circlip 8.
  • Page 9 Push downward lever rod 27 (see fig. 3-12) and with the help Gearbox of a screwdriver or any other pointed tool take out the retaining The design of the gearbox is shown on fig. 3-12, 3-26, 3-34. sleeve 31 from the groove on the lever rod; remove the rod. Disconnect the brackets that are fixing pipes and mufflers in Fault diagnosis the rear part of the vehicle, and then the muffler pipe from the...
  • Page 10 Fig. 3-12. Gearbox: 1 - input shaft; 2 - front cover with guide sleeve; 3 - input shaft oil seal; 4 - spring washer; 5 - bearing set collar; 6 - gearbox housing; 7 - breather; 8 - output shaft needle bearing;...
  • Page 11 Fig. 3-15. Clutch bellhousing, view from inside. Fig. 3-13. Clutch release drive: The black arrows point to the gearbox-to-clutch bellhousing fastening nuts; the 1 - fork return spring; 2 - locknut; 3 - adjusting nut; 4 - cotter pin; 5 - clutch white arrow points to the opening in the front cover for oil outflow from the trans- release fork;...
  • Page 12 Remove circlip from the gearbox output shaft end (fig. 3-16). Unbend the lock washer, undo the nut by several turns to move the coupling centering ring, and again turn in the nut. Using a puller A.40006/1 with tool A.40005/4 remove the flexible cou- pling centering ring from the output shaft end (fig.
  • Page 13 Fig. 3-23. Removing the reverse idler gear, 5th gear/synchro unit and Fig. 3-21. Removing the 5th gear bush: fork assembly: 1 - bush 1 - reverse idler gear; 2 - 5th speed coupling; 3 - 5th speed/reverse gear Fig. 3-24. Removing the 5th synchro unit hub/reverse driven gear: Fig.
  • Page 14 Simultaneously remove the reverse idler gear 1 (fig. 3-23) from the shaft, gear 3 in assembly with the coupling and fork 4 from the output shaft. With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) remove the 5th synchro unit hub together with reverse driven gear 2 from key 4 (fig.
  • Page 15 Fig. 3-27. Undoing the fastening bolts of the output shaft idler gear plate with an impact screwdriver. The arrow shows the direction of the screwdriver thrust stroke when striking with a hammer Fig. 3-28. Withdrawing the input shaft from the transmission casing With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) take out the input shaft together with the bearing and the synchro unit ring (fig.
  • Page 16 - the output shaft rear bearing is press-fitted on the shaft to facilitate the installation of the rear cover; - the reverse idler gear 1 (see fig. 3-23), gear 3 and fork 4 are installed simultaneously; - when reassembling the gear switch lever apply grease ãëñ-15 or ãàíéã-24 on the ball or the cap of the ball socket;...
  • Page 17 On surfaces mating with the clutch housing, with the rear and bottom covers there should be no damages that may cause oil leak. Insignificant damages should be smoothed with a file. If parts are badly damaged or worn, renew them. Check the condition of the front cover and ensure that the input shaft does not touch it when rotating.

  • Page 18: Transfer Box

    should be no roughness or scuffings on the rolling surfaces of the Transfer box shaft front end. Check the condition of needle rolling surface in the opening Fault diagnosis of the primary shaft. Diagnosis Remedy Examine the intermediate shaft, no chipping or excessive wear of teeth is allowed.
  • Page 19 Spontaneous gear or differential lock disengagement Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer box and 1. Worn teeth on gears and cou- 1. Renew worn parts the wires from the differential lock warning lamp sensor. Turn the plings driveshafts and disconnect the driveshaft flanges from the trans- 2.
  • Page 20 - refit and tighten the flange fastening bolts on the transfer coupling and the front axle shaft. Remove the speedometer drive box and the layshaft; if the bolts fit perfectly in the apertures of the unit housing 3 in assembly with the speedometer driven gear. flanges, the centering is carried out correctly, otherwise the After removing lock washer 8 (see fig.
  • Page 21 Fig. 3-36. Transfer box operating system: 1 - differential locking clutch yoke; 2 - differential locking clutch; 3 - yoke stop bolt; 4 - boot; 5 - lever spring; 6 - differential locking fork rod; 7 - front axle case cover; 8 - lock washer;...
  • Page 22 Fig. 3-39. Removing the front axle case: 1 - front axle case; 2 - case cover; 3 - speedometer drive housing Remove the bearing setting rings from the front and rear drive shafts. Take the front axle drive shaft 11 (see fig. 3-35) out from the casing together with bearing 8, thrust ring and oil deflec- tor 9.
  • Page 23 Remove front cover 4 (fig. 3-40) with the differential, fit the differential bearing setting ring and take out the bearing in assembly with the differential from the front cover. Remove the setting rings from the bearings of the drive- and intermediate shafts and remove both input- and layshafts from the transfer box casing.
  • Page 24 Fig. 3-45. Press-fitting the bearing on the differential housing: 1 - tool 67.7853.9558 - remove circlips 8 (see fig. 3-42) and spring washer 14, then press out the differential pinion shaft and remove the differential pinions and the drive shaft gears with support washers. Press out worn or damaged oil seals from the front axle case, from the front bearing cover and from the rear cover.

  • Page 25: Drive Line

    between the input shaft and top gear should be 0.05-0.10 mm, maximum allowed - 0.15 mm. If wear exceeds the limits, renew the gears. Bearings. Ball and roller bearings should have no damages on races, cages, rollers or balls, and no cracks and choppings on rings.
  • Page 26 Noise and vibration of propeller shafts Check the layshaft balance on a balance bench, as follows. 1. Deformation of front or rear pro- 1. Rectify under press or renew It is not recommended to dismantle the propeller shafts, if the peller shaft yokes are turning smoothly, there is no jamming, the mis-align- 2.
  • Page 27 If any of the components are damaged, renew the spider in assembly with the bearings. The diameter of the yoke opening for the needle bearing should not exceed 28.021 mm. In case of damage or if wear of working surfaces of the layshaft U-joint components exceeds 0.1 mm, renew the U-joint assembly.
  • Page 28 Fig. 3-52. U-joint reassembling: Fig. 3-51. Installing the bush for dismantling the U-joint: 1 - circlip; 2 - feeler gauge; H - gap; A, B, C, D, E, F, G - feeler gauge blades 1 - bush with thickness in mm: 1.45; 1.48; 1.52; 1.56; 1.60; 1.64; 1.67 Fig.
  • Page 29 Rear axle - removal and refitting Rear axle The removal and refitting of the rear axle beam is described The design of the rear axle is shown on fig. 3-54. in subsection "Rear suspension". To remove the rear axle it is enough to disconnect the suspension arm and the shock- Fault diagnosis absorbers only from the rear axle beam.
  • Page 30 Fig. 3-54. Rear axle: 1 - wheel cap; 2 - brake drum-to-wheel securing bolt; 3 - oil deflector; 4 - brake drum; 5 - brake drum iron ring; 6 - wheel cylinder; 7 - bleeder; 8 - axle shaft bearing; 9 - bearing locking ring;...
  • Page 31 Fig. 3-56. Checking for vertical deformations of the rear axle beam using a try-square on the outside surface of flange A.70172 Fig. 3-58. Checking the reduction gear mounting If deformation exceeds this size, straighten the beam, follow- the arrow of the indicator will point to the division equal to the size ing the procedure given below.
  • Page 32 Fig. 3-59. Checking for horizontal deformations of the rear axle beam Fig. 3-61. Pressing out the axle shaft bearing stop ring: using a try-square on the outside surface of flange A.70172 1 - fixture; 2 - axle shaft graphite greasing or ãëñ-15. After refitting, check the operation flange end face measured in the centers, should not exceed 0.05 mm, if the runout is above the specified value, but no more than of axle shafts during an actual road test.
  • Page 33 Fig. 3-62. Press-fitting the axle shaft bearing stop ring: Fig. 3-64. Checking the axle shaft axial play with the wheel and the 1 - tool; 2 - axle shaft; 3 - race; 4 - stop ring; 5 - bearing; 6 - oil deflector assem- brake drum removed: bly and bearing securing plate;...
  • Page 34 - undo nuts fastening the braking plate to the beam and pull out the axle shafts so that they come out from the differential box; - disconnect the propeller shaft from the reduction gear, put a support under the reduction gear casing, turn out the bolts fas- tening it to the rear axle beam and take out the reduction gear from the beam, pay attention not to damage the sealing.
  • Page 35 Inspect the differential pinion apertures and the shafts; insignificant surface damages smooth with fine sandpaper, and renew in case of serious damages. Inspect the surfaces of the axle shaft gear journals and their bores in the differential box, check the condition of box apertures for differential pinion shafts.
  • Page 36 Fig. 3-69. Rear axle reduction gear components: 1 - drive gear flange; 2 - oil seal; 3 - oil deflector; 4 - front bearing; 5 - rear bearing; 6 - drive gear adjusting ring; 7 - axle shaft gear support washer; 8 - axle shaft gear; 9 - pinion;...
  • Page 37 Fig. 3-71. Defining the thickness of the drive gear shim: 1 - indicator; 2 - fixture A.95690; 3 - drive gear rear bearing; 4 - tool A.70184 In this case fit an adjusting ring with thickness of 3.05 mm. Fit an adjusting ring of the necessary thickness on the driving gear and press fit using tool A.70152 (fig.
  • Page 38 Fig. 3-73. Final drive gears: 1 - driven gear; 2 - serial number; 3 - allowance in hundredth of mm to nominal; Fig. 3-76. Checking the drive gear bearing preload: 4 - drive gear 1 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 2 - casing; 3 - sleeve Differential housing bearings preload and adjustment of the side gap in final drive gears mesh These operations are carried out simultaneously using tool...
  • Page 39 After moving the driven gear, check the side gap by indicator 2 (see fig. 3-78). Repeat the adjustment if the clearance does not correspond to the rated value. Remove tool A.95688/R, fit the adjusting nut lock plates and fix them by bolts with spring washers. In spare parts the lock plates are delivered of two types: with one or two tabs depending on the location of the nut slot.
  • Page 40 driven gear teeth the contact pattern is located in regular intervals - clean the casing filler neck from oil and wipe dry; closer to the narrow end of the tooth, occupying two thirds of - raise the rear axle and put it on supports; length and without covering the top and the base of the tooth, as - start the engine, engage the fourth gear and at speed of 90- shown on fig.
  • Page 41 Loosen the muffler-to-front exhaust pipe clip, disconnect the Front axle pipes and muffler brackets in the rear part of the vehicle and on the gearbox. The design of the front axle is shown on fig. 3-81. A number "13" is painted on the reduction gear casing for distinction. Using key 02.7812.9500 undo the front exhaust pipe-to- exhaust manifold fastening nuts and remove the pipe downward.
  • Page 42 Fig. 3-81. Front axle: 1 - splash guard; 2 - reduction gear casing lower cover; 3 - final drive gear bearing; 4 - differential housing; 5 - drain aperture plug; 6 - check and filler plug; 7 - inner joint housing bearing;...
  • Page 43 state this ring should pass free through the spline opening in race - remove the wheel hub cap and undo the wheel hub bearing 11, what allows to connect and to separate the joint and shaft 4. nut, then unscrew the fastening nut of the inner joint housing bearing cover;...
  • Page 44 Fig. 3-84. Withdrawing the ball from the cage Fig. 3-85. Withdrawing the cage / race assembly from the joint housing - using a knock-out and a hammer, beat the inner joint race Take the race out from the cage, to do that, place one of the race ledges in the elongated opening of the cage (see fig.
  • Page 45 Chapter 4 Wheel suspensions Fault diagnosis Diagnosis Remedy Noise and knock in suspension at vehicle movement 1. Faulty shock-absorbers 1. Replace or repair shock absorbers 2. Loose anti-roll bar fastening bolts 2. Tighten securing nuts and bolts; in case of rubber pad wear - replace 3.
  • Page 46 Diagnosis Remedy Un-even tyre tread wear 1. Excessive speed at cornering 1. Low down speed 2. Excessive wear of suspension joints and bushes 2. Repair suspension 3. Wheels out of balance (stains in regular intervals on tread outer path 3. Balance wheels and on central path when driving with a disbalanced wheel for a long time) 4.

  • Page 47: Front Suspension

    Diagnosis Remedy Excessive wear of tyre tread 1. High driving speed 1. Choose speed according to road conditions 2. Heavy vehicle acceleration 2. Avoid sharp acceleration 3. Often braking 3. Use brakes correctly 4. Wrong wheel alignment angles 4. Adjust wheel alignment angles 5.
  • Page 48 Fig. 4-1. Front suspension: 1 - front suspension crossmember; 2 - lower control arm shaft; 3 - lower arm silent block; 4 - lower control arm; 5 - lower control arm shims; 6 - lower control arm shaft bush; 7 - crossmember bracket; 8 - coil spring lower seat; 9 - coil spring; 10 - compression buffer mounting strut; 11 - compression buffer; 12 - compression restrictor; 13 - shock absorber mounting bracket, lower;...
  • Page 49 Before adjusting the wheel alignment angles check the fol- lowing: - pressure in tyres; - axial gap in front wheel hub bearings; - serviceability of shock-absorbers (absence of rod jamming); - radial and axial runout of tyres; - gap in suspension balljoints; - free play of steering wheel.
  • Page 50 After adjustment, refit the fastening clamps with the slot fac- ing back with allowable deviation downward by 60° to the hori- zontal plane of the vehicle. With the nuts tightened the clamp slot edges should not contact. After toe-in adjustment, ensure that wheels and steering mechanism components do not hit the adjacent components of the suspension and car body.
  • Page 51 Fig. 4-6. Front suspension on the vehicle, rear view: 1 - lower control arm; 2 - crossmember; 3 - tie-rod fastening bracket; 4 - anti-roll bar-to-body securing bracket; 5 - tie-rod; 6 - anti-roll bar - remove old greasing and wash with kerosine the inner cav- Front suspension - removal and refitting ity of the steering knuckle, the outer and inner cavities of the hub, Place the vehicle on the lift or over an inspection pit, set the...
  • Page 52 Fig. 4-7. Front suspension, exploded view: 1 - coil spring lower seat; 2 - lower control arm; 3 - lower arm shaft; 4 - lower control arm silent block; 5 - coil spring; 6 - upper seat; 7 - spring insulator gasket; 8 - com- pression buffer;...
  • Page 53 - remove the front wheel hub in assembly with the brake disc, Inspection using pusher 67.7823.9516; Balljoint. Ensure the integrity of the balljoint boots; no - remove the front brake splash guard; breaks, cracks, rubber peeling from the metal fixture, traces of - remove the front suspension shock-absorber;...
  • Page 54 Fig. 4-11. Press-fitting the upper control arm balljoint: Fig. 4-10. Pressing out the upper control arm balljoint: 1 - control arm shaft; 2 - tool 67.7853.9519; 3 - fixture A.74177/1 1 - control arm shaft; 2 - tool 67.7823.9527; 3 - balljoint; 4 - tool A.47045 the front suspension, it is permissible to install the A class springs on the front suspension.

  • Page 55: Rear Suspension

    The lower arm. The pressing-out and press-fitting of the joint Disconnect the handbrake rear cable brackets from the can be carried out on a press, using tool 67.7823.9526, and also body, remove the front cable return spring, and after undoing the locknut and the adjusting nut, release the rear cable.
  • Page 56 for the rear suspension, it is permissible to install the B class springs (with black marking). If on the front suspension the springs of B class are installed, the rear suspension should be fit- ted with B class springs only. To avoid damage and excessive tightening of control arm rubber bushes and shock-absorbers: - load the rear part of the vehicle so that distance X, mea-...
  • Page 57 Fig. 4-18. Front and rear suspension shock absorbers: 1 - lower eye; 2 - compression valve body; 3 - compression valve discs; 4 - compression valve throttling disc; 5 - compression valve spring; 6 - compression valve holder; 7 - compression valve cap; 8 - recoil valve nut; 9 - recoil valve spring; 10 - shock absorber piston; 11 - recoil valve cap; 12 - recoil valve discs; 13 - piston ring; 14 - recoil valve nut washer;...
  • Page 58 Place the rod in assembly with the piston in grips, fix in vice and undo the recoil valve nut 8. Remove piston 10 with valves (bypass and recoil), rod guide bush 23, rod sealing 26, sealing race 25 and other components. Note.
  • Page 59 Diagnosis Remedy Chapter 5. Steering 5. Wrong clearance in roller-to- 5. Adjust clearance The steering mechanism design is shown on fig. 5-1, 5-2. worm mesh or in worm bearings 6. Excessive gap in tie-rod 6. Renew ball joints or tie rods Since November, 1998, vehicles are fitted with a telescopic balljoint intermediate shaft instead of a cylindrical intermediate shaft 17...
  • Page 60 Fig. 5-1. Steering: 1 - track rod; 2 - drop arm; 3 - relay rod; 4 - idler arm; 5 - adjuster pin; 6 - lower balljoint; 7 - right steering knuckle; 8 - upper balljoint; 9 - right steering knuckle arm; 10 - idler bracket;...
  • Page 61 Fig. 5-3. Steering components: 1 - steering box; 2 - shaft seal; 3 - intermediate shaft; 4 - upper shaft; 5 - locking plate, bracket front end; 6 - bracket; 7 - upper shroud; 8 - bearing bush; 9 - needle bear- ing;...

  • Page 62: Steering Mechanism

    Inspect the tie-rod balljoint protective caps. Steering mechanism If the protective caps are in good condition and provide inside cleanness, their service life is practically unlimited. Moisture, dust Removal and refitting and other foreign particles inside the joint will result in premature Removal.
  • Page 63 Fig. 5-7. Removing the outer ring of the worm upper bearing using tool 67.7853.9541: 1 - steering box; 2 - worm upper bearing ring, outer; 3 - tool 67.7853.9541 tening nut and fix it in three points. Move the combination switch case fully towards the steering wheel, and tighten the switch fas- tening clip.
  • Page 64 Fig. 5-9. Checking the worm friction moment using a dynamometer: Fig. 5-8. Installing the steering worm 1 - worm; 2 - head A.95697/5; 3 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 4 - test-bench 1 - bearing cover; 2 - shim; 3 - worm bracket;...
  • Page 65 After press-fitting in the steering box, finally process the screwed in to an angle, smaller than 60° to provide for subse- bushes with a reamer A.90336 up to the size of 28.698-28.720 quent splinting. mm. The mounting gap between the pitman arm shaft and the After refitting adjust the front wheel toe-in.

  • Page 66: Braking System

    Vehicle wandering or skidding at braking Chapter 6 1. Leak of brake liquid in one of 1. Renew seals and bleed system wheel cylinders Braking system 2. Jammed piston in brake wheel 2. Check and rectify piston sticking cylinder in cylinder, renew damaged com- The design of the braking system is shown on fig.
  • Page 67 Fig. 6-1. Braking system: 1 - rear brake wheel cylinder; 2 - parking brake rear cable; 3 - rear brake guide; 4 - parking brake front cable; 5 - parking brake lever; 6 - brake pedal; 7 - servo unit; 8 - second circuit pipeline;...

  • Page 68: Handbrake Adjustment

    If the stoplight switch is too close to the pedal, it does not come back to the initial position, valve 18 (see fig. 6-2), being pressed to housing 21, separates cavities A and B, and it results in incomplete release of wheels when the pedal is let off. To adjust the stop-light switch position slacken nut 8 and by rotating nut 9 (see fig.
  • Page 69 Fig. 6-4. Handbrake linkage: 1 - front cable; 2 - rear cable guide; 3 - front cable return spring; 4 - rear cable; 5 - locknut; 6 - adjusting nut; 7 - spacer Ask an assistant to press the brake pedal with effort of 686- housing, apply a thin layer of Ñí-1 on the shaft and the acting part 784 N (70-80 kgf) and simultaneously observe the outcoming part of the piston, fill 5-6 gr.
  • Page 70 All above operations should be carried out through the upper connectors first on the right rear wheel, the most remote from the master cylinder, then further clockwise: the left rear wheel, left and right front wheels. Thus, air from one circuit will be removed. To bleed the other circuit use the lower connectors on the cylin- der block of the left and right front brakes.
  • Page 71 Clutch and brake pedal bracket Removal and refitting. To remove the pedal bracket: - remove the steering shaft bracket, as mentioned in section "Steering"; - disconnect the servo unit push rod from the brake pedal, having removed lock shackle 26 (fig. 6-8) and taken out pin 24; - disconnect the wires from the stoplight switch;...
  • Page 72 Check and repair. At hard pedal movement examine the - undo the nuts fastening the servo unit bracket to the body working surfaces of pedals, bushes and shaft. front and remove the unit in assembly with the bracket. If there will be small risks or traces of oxidation on surfaces of Refitting of the servo unit is carried out in reverse order.

  • Page 73: Front Brakes

    Fig. 6-11. Checking the leak-proofness of the master cylinder: 1 - test-bench bleeding valve; 2 - manometer; 3 - reservoir; 4 - master cylinder; 5 - flywheel; 6 - pushrod shift indicator; 7 - vent; 8 - vessel Inspection of components. Before reassembly, wash all components with isopropyl alcohol;...
  • Page 74 Components inspection Carefully examine all components, having previously washed them in warm water with washing liquid and dried by a jet of com- pressed air. If on pistons and on cylinder mirrors any traces of wear or jamming are found, renew the cylinder block complete with pis- tons.

  • Page 75: Rear Brakes

    Rear brakes The design of the rare brake is shown on fig. 6-17. Removal and dismantling Lift the rear part of the vehicle and take off the wheel. Take care of possible liquid spillage from the tank. Using puller 67.7823.9519 (fig. 6-18) remove the brake drum. Disconnect the cable end piece from the shoe manual lever 18 (see fig.

  • Page 76: Component Inspection

    Fig. 6-17. Rear wheel brake mechanism: 1 - wheel cylinder; 2 - upper return spring; 3 - friction lining; 4 - backplate; 5 - inner plate; 6 - rear cable sheath; 7 - lower return spring; 8 - front brake shoe; 9 - thrust plate;...
  • Page 77 Fig. 6-19. Wheel cylinder: 1 - shoe abutment plate; 2 - cap; 3 - cylinder body; 4 - piston; 5 - seal; 6 - backing cup; 7 - spring; 8 - retainers; 9 - thrust ring; 10 - thrust screw; 11 - bleed screw; A - slot in thrust ring Fig.
  • Page 78 Fig. 6-21. Checking the rear brake wheel cylinders: 1 - piston rests; 2 - cylinder under check; 3 - cylinder bracket; 4 - low pressure manometer; 5 - high pressure manometer; 6 - cylinder for building up pressure; 7 - reservoir; 8 - flywheel Remove the regulator and disconnect the arm.
  • Page 79 Fig. 6-24. Handbrake linkage components: 1 - cover; 2 - front cable; 3 - lever; 4 - pushbutton; 5 - tie rod spring; 6 - lock tie-rod; 7 - rear cable guide; 8 - distance sleeve; 9 - return spring; 10 - expander strut; 11 - manual shoe operating lever;...

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