Related Manuals for BSA Bantam Supreme D14/4
Summary of Contents for BSA Bantam Supreme D14/4
- Page 1 www.ClassicCycles.org INSTRUCTION MANUAL 175 c.c. Bantam Supreme. Model D14/4 175 c.c. Bantam Sports. Model D14/4S 175 c.c. Bushman. Model D14/4B...
- Page 2 I N S T R U C T I O N M A N U A L 175 c.c. BANTAM Supreme. Model D14/4 175 c.c. BANTAM Sports. Model D14/4S 175 c.c. BUSHMAN. Model D14/4B B.S.A. MOTOR CYCLES LTD., ARMOURY ROAD, BIRMINGHAM, 11 ENGLAND Telephone: Birmingham, VICtoria 2381...
- Page 3 www.ClassicCycles.org This Instruction manual is intended to acquaint the B.S.A. owner with details of the controls, general maintenance and technical data which may be required for normal operation of the machine. It does not contain the information necessary to carry out complete stripping for major overhauls, but if any owner feels competent to carry out this type of work, a service manual and an illustrated spares catalogue for this machine...
- Page 4 The controls of the Bantam Sports. Note: Bushman models are not fitted with an ignition switch, main beam warning light, or parking light, but are otherwise similar. Fig. 1. The Controls The lower illustration shows the controls for the Bantam Supreme.
- Page 5 www.ClassicCycles.org CONTENTS pages AIR CLEANER BRAKES CARBURETTER . . FRONT CHAIN . . REAR CHAIN CLEANING CLUTCH CONTROLS CYLINDER HEAD AND BARREL REMOVAL . . DRIVING . . DECARBONISING ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT . . 30 and 32 FORKS GEARBOX . . HUBS IGNITION TIMING LUBRICATION CHART...
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Page 6: Technical Data
TECHNICAL DATA Engine Number—on top of crankcase below cylinder. Frame Number—at top of steering head tube. Engine: Capacity 173 c.c. Cylinder bore 61·5 mm. Stroke 58 mm. Compression ratio . . 10/1 Piston ring gap minimum ·009 in. maximum ·013 in. Sparking plug Plug points gap minimum... - Page 7 www.ClassicCycles.org TECHNICAL DATA Wheels: Supreme, Sports Bushman Tyre size front 3·00—18 3·00—19 rear 3·00—18 3·00—19 Tyre pressure front 16 p.s.i. 16 p.s.i. rear 22 p.s.i. 22 p.s.i. Brake size . . dia. 5½ in. 5½ in. wide 1 in. 1 in. Carburation: Amal Bore .
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Page 8: Controls
TAKING OVER THE MACHINE Before running the machine make sure that the fuel tank contains the correct mixture of oil and petrol, that the gearbox is properly topped up with oil and that the battery is filled and charged. (See appropriate chapters for filling instructions). Normally these preparations will be carried out by the dealer who is selling the machine and the new owner has only to arrange the controls to his liking and the machine is ready for the road. -
Page 9: Driving
www.ClassicCycles.org Headlight Switch.—This is operated by a switch on the headlamp, and has three positions—OFF, LOW (L), and HEAD (H) respectively. The low position is for use when the machine is stationary and applies only to Supreme and Sports. Ignition Switch.—(Supreme and Sports models)—This is mounted on the top of the headlamp and has three positions. - Page 10 Open the twist grip a small amount only, as excessive opening may prevent easy starting, and push the starter pedal down slowly until resistant is felt; then, without releasing the pressure on the pedal, give a firm downward swing which should set the engine in motion.
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Page 11: Running-In
www.ClassicCycles.org To Stop the Engine Select the neutral gear position and close the throttle so reducing the engine speed to “tick-over”. Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” or central position, or, on Bushman models, depress the “cut-out” button to stop the engine. Notes on Gear Changing When changing gear, not only should a suitable road speed be selected at which to perform the operation, but the gear change should be timed in such a way that the... -
Page 12: Cleaning
The “running-in” process is the most important period in the life of the engine, and the handling it receives during the first 1,000 to 1,500 miles will determine the service which it will provide in return. Running-in should commence at ⅓ to ½ throttle and the throttle opening should be progressively increased as the mileage builds up, until at the end of the running-in period full throttle can be employed. - Page 13 www.ClassicCycles.org Weekly page Check tyre pressures and remove any embedded stones or pieces of metal. Oil brake pedal pivot and all exposed joints and cables. Examine the battery and top up if necessary. More frequent examination is advisable in a hot climate Check brake adjustment Every 1,000 miles Check rear chain adjustment .
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Page 14: Ignition Timing
The contact breaker becomes accessible following removal of the screws “G” which retain cover “F” (Fig. 6). Turn the engine until the points are fully opened and insert a feeler gauge between them. The correct gap in this position should be ·012 in. (·3 mm.) and if it is found to be incorrect, slacken screw “E”... - Page 15 www.ClassicCycles.org Any variation in timing can be obtained only by moving the contact breaker plate “8” Fig. 2, which can be rotated through a very small angle after releasing the screws “D”. Do not forget to re-tighten them securely after the adjustment has been made. It is emphasised that this is a “works”...
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Page 16: Decarbonising
DECARBONISATION Decarbonising is extremely simple and should be carried out at regular intervals of about three thousand miles (5,000 km.) if consistent results are to be expected. The symptoms indicating an excessive deposit of carbon are undue roughness of the engine and a tendency to pink under load, erratic running with excessive four and eight stroking, and an appreciable falling off in power. - Page 17 www.ClassicCycles.org Piston Place the cylinder head and barrel on one side on a bench and examine the piston. It should not be necessary to remove this from the connecting rod, but if it should be desired to do this for any reason, first remove the circlip from one end of the gudgeon pin using a pair of pointed nose pliers or some suitable instrument to lever the circlip out.
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Page 18: Sparking Plug
Cylinder Head and Barrel Remove all carbon deposit from the cylinder head, bearing in mind again that the aluminium is soft and easily damaged if the decarbonising tool is carelessly applied, and carefully wipe clean to ensure the removal of all loose particles. Most of the carbon deposit likely to have accumulated in the cylinder will be in the exhaust port, and cleanliness at this point is most important as explained earlier. -
Page 19: Carburetter
www.ClassicCycles.org A plug running at the correct temperature in a healthy engine will be indicated by blackish or greyish-tan deposits on the end of the plug body and earth electrode. The firing end of the insulator will vary from a very light tan to a darkish brown. (Above)—Fouled with burnt oil or soot (Below)—Correct... - Page 20 An exploded view of the carburetter is shown in Fig. 5. Opening the twist grip throttle control raises the throttle slide thus controlling the supply of air to the engine. The tapered needle controlling the supply of fuel is attached to the throttle slide so that a balanced mixture is always provided.
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Page 21: Air Cleaner
www.ClassicCycles.org Air Cleaner (Supreme and Sports models) This is concealed behind the right side panel which must be removed first. The air cleaner element is retained by a flexible strap and, following its removal, the element can be withdrawn. It should be cleaned at intervals of about 2,000 miles. Wash the filter element thoroughly in petrol, allow to dry, and re-assemble. - Page 22 9. NEEDLE 10. AIR SLIDE 11. THROTTLE SLIDE 14. PILOT JET 15. NEEDLE JET 16. NEEDLE JET HOLDER 17. MAIN JET 18. FLOAT NEEDLE 19. FLOAT 26. THROTTLE STOP SCREW 27. PILOT AIR SCREW Fig. 5. The Amal concentric carburetter...
- Page 23 www.ClassicCycles.org LIST OF RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS All the engine oils listed below are self-mixing and must be used in the proportion of 1 part oil to 24 parts petrol (i.e. 4% mixture), given by the following:— 3½ filler cap measures of oil to 1 gallon of petrol. If non self-mixing two-stroke oil is used, (or alternatively, an S.A.E.
- Page 24 KEY LUBRICATION POINTS (L indicates left hand side, remained right hand side or both sides). The illustration shows the Bantam Supreme. Lubrication details for the other models are the same. OIL. (See Chart page 22) Item Page Petroil Mixture 12 & 22 2, 12 Gearbox and Primary Drive 12 &...
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Page 25: Front Chain
www.ClassicCycles.org TRANSMISSION Front Chain The front chain runs on short fixed centres and adjustment is neither required nor provided. The chain will run for many thousands of miles before examination is required. This operation involves the removal of the primary chain cover (Fig. 6), after the starter and gear change pedals, both of which are mounted on splines and locked by pinch bolts “B”... -
Page 26: Clutch
Rear Chain Adjustment Adjustment of the rear chain involves moving the rear wheel and is described on page 27. Clutch Control The clutch adjustment will be found at the left-hand end of the gearbox mainshaft (see Fig. 7) and it consists of an adjusting pin C screwed into the clutch withdrawal sleeve and a locknut B to secure it in position. -
Page 27: Gearbox
www.ClassicCycles.org If the play becomes excessive, difficulty will be experienced in changing gear, as the clutch may not fully disengage, in which case the control should be adjusted as explained below. To adjust, release the locknut and holding it with a spanner unscrew the adjusting pin with a screwdriver one or two turns. - Page 28 Front Wheel Removal (Bantam Supreme) Disconnect the brake cable at the lever on the brake cover plate and then remove the nut securing the cover plate to the fork leg. Remove the caps at the bottom of the fork legs, supporting the wheel as this is being done and withdraw the wheel. When replacing make sure the spindle ends are level with the end faces of the caps and that the cover plate nut is securely tightened.
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Page 29: Brakes
www.ClassicCycles.org Rear Chain The rear chain is adjusted by means of draw bolts at the fork ends at the back of the wheel spindle. First slacken off the brake adjuster, as the brake rod may prevent free movement of the wheel. Next, loosen the nut on the inside of the brake plate arm at C, to allow the slotted arm to accommodate itself to a new position when the wheel is moved. -
Page 30: Rear Suspension
Steering Head Adjustment (All models) It is first necessary to raise the front wheel clear of the ground—this can best be done by lifting the machine on its stand and putting some small weight on the rear of the machine causing the rear wheel to rest on the ground. Test for play by grasping the fork legs and attempting to push them backwards and forwards. - Page 31 www.ClassicCycles.org THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Supreme and Sports models) The lighting and ignition systems are fed by a simple 6 pole alternator generating set which supplies current through a metal plate rectifier to the battery, this then feeding the ignition system, lights, horn, etc., through the appropriate switches. The alternator stator carries 6 coils which are wired in three sets of two series- connected coils.
- Page 32 A positive earth wiring system is employed. Make sure that the battery is connected correctly, i.e. with the positive ( ) side of the battery connected to earth. – The coloured lead must be connected to the battery NEGATIVE ( ) terminal, and the translucent (earth) lead to the battery POSITIVE ( ) terminal.
- Page 33 www.ClassicCycles.org Rear Lamp A single bulb is used for both stop and rear light purposes. The transparent red plastic portion of the lamp can be removed by unscrewing the two countersunk screws. Stop Light Switch This is operated by the brake rod through a spring. It is desirable to see that any mud or grease is periodically cleared away from the switch, and the operating mechanism should be oiled occasionally with thin oil.
- Page 34 The set requires practically no maintenance, but if the stator is removed for inspection or replacement at any time, the soldered connections which are visible should be checked to ensure that none is touching another, or touching earth. Before replacing, ensure that the pole faces are free from metallic dust and that the main cable is clear of all the moving parts.
- Page 35 www.ClassicCycles.org...
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