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Instruction Manual
Modeling the Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane
Instruction Manual & Prototype by Dr. David G. Ullman, 2013
Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. dba Model Expo – Hollywood, Florida
Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.
http://www.modelexpo-online.com
Model Airways Kit No. MA1040
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Table of Contents
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Summary of Contents for Model Shipways MA1040
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Page 1: Instruction Manual
Instruction Manual Modeling the Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane Instruction Manual & Prototype by Dr. David G. Ullman, 2013 Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. dba Model Expo – Hollywood, Florida Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. http://www.modelexpo-online.com Model Airways Kit No. MA1040... -
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Building the Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane Contents Technical Details ........................5 History ............................Before you Begin ........................Working with the Sheets and parts ..................... 6 Preparing cast parts ..................... 6 Cleaning laser cut parts ....................7 Preparing stock wooden parts ..................7 Glue .......................... - Page 4 Installing the Tail Skid....................27 Stage 3: Building the Tail Surfaces ...................27 Stabilizer ........................27 Elevator ........................28 Rudder ........................29 Connecting the controls ....................30 Fuselage bracing ......................31 Step and Lift Handles ....................31 Stage 4: Building the Landing Gear ...................31 Stage 5: Building the Oberursel Engine and Propeller...............33 The Oberursel Engine ....................33 Propeller ........................35 Stage 6: Building the Cockpit and Connecting the Controls to the Engine .........36...
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Page 5: Technical Details
Technical Details Scale 1:16, Length 14 1/8” Span 17 3/4” Height 7 1/4” Kit design, Sheets, instructions, and prototype model by David G. Ullman, 2013 History The Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane is probably the most famous fighter of WWI. It is known as the plane flown by Manfred von Richthofen, the Red Baron, who is credited with 80 victories before he himself was shot down and killed. -
Page 6: Working With The Sheets And Parts
Disposable materials that will be needed: Cyanoacrylate adhesive Clothespins Cyanoacrylate un-cure Toothpicks Cyanoacrylate insta-set (accelerator) Cotton swabs Liquid Nails Metal Projects LN-203 or Masking tape- low tack other 5 minute epoxy (LN-203 is Small touch-up paint brushes ... -
Page 7: Cleaning Laser Cut Parts
There are over 50 turnbuckles on the Dr.1, mainly in the fuselage. To make rigging easier, drill out each end of each turnbuckle with a 1/32” drill (.9 mm). B. Cleaning laser cut parts Laser cutting is a great process for making very accurate basswood and plywood parts that fit together well. -
Page 8: Stage 1: Building The Wings
STAGE 1: BUILDING THE WINGS Layout drawings for all three wings are on Sheet C. Instructions for the Bottom Wing are detailed first. The Mid and Upper wings are very similar in construction to the Bottom Wing and only details that differ from it are covered. Anthony Fokker and his chief designer, Reinhold Platz, used a single box beam as the spar in each of the wings. -
Page 9: Main Spar
Main spar The main spar on the Dr.1 is essentially a box-beam. The top and bottom members have slots facing forward to receive the forward half of the ribs. The difference between the top (WW1a) and bottom (WW1b) is that the slot for the root rib is canted out at the bottom to clear the landing gear, thus the slot in the bottom is further outboard. -
Page 10: Wing Tips
Pin the spar to the drawing with 1/64 inch (.4mm) spacers underneath as shown in Figure 1.5. The wing ribs fit in spar slots. When gluing, be sure the rear ribs touch the building surface at the trailing edge and the front ribs do so at the lowest point on the leading edge. -
Page 11: Final Wing Details
You may want to practice with some scrap, bending parallel to the grain of the outer layers of the plywood. Let it dry overnight.. Either glue in place or leave it in the jig as it may slowly uncurl if left un-glued for too long. Be careful to make a left and a right leading edge. Figures 1.7 Leading Edge Jig Figure 1.8 Leading Edge Clamped on Jig Figure 1.9 Leading Edge Gluing Detail... - Page 12 compared to the trailing edge length seen on the layout drawing. Glue on the root rib’s cap strips so they only extend outboard (inboard flush with the rib). 5.b. Trailing Edge: The bottom cap strips provides a platform for the attachment of the trailing edge wire.
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Page 13: The Middle Wing
Paint the Rear Tip Skid Mount (WP3) black and wrap it around the skid, twist it 90deg and glue to the back of the spar just inboard of the tip rib. Trim to length. Figure 1.11 Tip skid detail 5.k. Final Finish: Finish the wing with a couple of thin coats of clear semi-gloss or matte spray being sure that the ribbon material is well wetted. -
Page 14: The Top Wing
Figure 1.12 Middle Wing Completed The Middle Wing is constructed the same as the Lower Wing, with the following exceptions: The spar top and bottom are the same (WW10) and the middle wing front is WW11 and rear is WW12. Be sure when building the spars that the slots in the Spar Rear (WW12) are oriented correctly. -
Page 15: Top Wing Basic Structure
WW19 Top outer wing rib 1/32 laser cut plywood WW20 Top tip rib 1/32 laser cut plywood WW21 Top tip rib doubler 1/32 laser cut plywood WW22 Top wing tip 1/32 laser cut plywood WW23 Top wing leading edge 1/64 laser cut plywood Spar connector 1/32 laser cut plywood WP3629 Aileron spar... -
Page 16: Ailerons
Ailerons Part # Name Count Material 1/8” (3m) Brass tube WP127K Aileron front spar stock 1/32” (.8 mm) Brass rod WP160K Aileron rear spar stock .020” (,5 mm) Photo etched brass Aileron root rib .020” (,5 mm) Photo etched brass Aileron main rib .020”... -
Page 17: Aileron Pulleys
Figure 1.17 Aileron Mounted to Wing Aileron pulleys Two pulleys guide the lines to each aileron for control. Here we make and install the pulleys, but the actual stringing is near the end, in Stage 7 (see Figure 7.4). Each guide is built from a body of folded aluminum (WP9 –... -
Page 18: Stage 2: Building The Fuselage
Stage 2: Building the Fuselage The fuselage of the Dr.1 was made of welded steel tubing, braced with cables. The model simulates this construction with a combination of zinc castings, brass rods and thread bracing. Zinc is used as it is stiffer than Britannia. The best way to fasten zinc to itself or brass is with epoxy, not cyanoacrylate. -
Page 19: The Basic Fuselage
B. The Basic Fuselage Basic Fuselage Parts List Part # Name Count Material Fuselage side panel Cast Zinc FC2a Motor Mount front Cast Zinc FC2b Motor Mount rear Cast Zinc FC3a Frame 3a Cast Zinc FC3b Frame 3b Cast Zinc FC4a Frame 4a Cast Zinc... -
Page 20: Assemble The Engine Mount
2.3 Stringing a Fuselage Frame Frame 5, behind the cockpit also has a canvas panel that is simulated here with a piece of photo etched aluminum, the Cockpit Rear Wall (FP2). To make it look like canvas, relieve the surface at 45deg angle with 120 sand paper and then paint tan. Optionally, without sanding, take a fairly dry brush and streak the paint at 45 deg. -
Page 21: Assemble The Front Of The Fuselage
Allow the epoxy to form a fillet as this joint needs to be strong. Paint the epoxy with aluminum paint and it will look like part of the casting. Figure 2.5 Engine Mount Assemble the front of the fuselage Epoxy the Right and Left Side Panels (FC1) in the Engine Mount as shown in Figure 2.6. Add Frame 3a (FC3a) to stabilize this structure (as seen in Figure 2.7). -
Page 22: Load The Jig
Load the Jig Load the jig with each frame aft of the support, sitting on the brass tube. Be sure that Frame 5 has the seat bracket facing forward. All the others have no preferred orientation. Frame 6 has guides on it for the control cables, be sure they are on the bottom. Frame 8 has a double cross bar. -
Page 23: Preparing The Stringers
Preparing the stringers The stringers (FM1, FM2 and FM3) are made from 1/16” (1.6mm) brass rod. Cut 2 of each to length and carefully bend as shown on Sheet E. You should make these a little long and retrim them during test fitting described below. Note the front end of each stringer as labeled on Sheet B. -
Page 24: Final Assembly Jig
Final Assembly jig Part # Name Count Material FW11 final Assembly jig side .112 laser cut plywood FW12 final assembly jig end .112 laser cut plywood WP3643 Base stock ¼” (6.3 mm) square bass Before continuing it is good to build the final assembly jig. This jig provides alignment for the wings, but is also handy as a cradle for the fuselage when working on it. - Page 25 The fuselage structure around the cockpit is integral with the controls. They will both be made and installed here, then finalized in Stage 5. The structure is shown in the exploded view, Figure 2.10. The controls can be made operational, but, the control surfaces are not balanced (in the original or the model) and will sag over time.
- Page 26 Each turnbuckle is as close to the bellcrank as possible and has a 16” (41cm) line that will later be attached to the ailerons. There are two lines on each side of FC31 as seen in Figure 2.12. To make the control stick, glue the two FP24 plates to FC27a and FC27b, with FC30 captured to make the pitch pivot.
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Page 27: Installing Thetail Skid
Installing theTail Skid Part # Name Count Material WP3656 Tail Skid stock 1/16 x 3/8 inch (1.6 x 9.5mm) bass FP13 tail skid lower bracket .010 photo etched aluminum FP14 tail skid upper bracket .010 photo etched aluminum FC17 Rear post Cast Britannia WP0970 Bungee stock... -
Page 28: Elevator
Stabilizer rib 2 .020 photo etched brass Stabilizer rib 3 .020 photo etched brass Stabilizer rib 4 .020 photo etched brass Stabilizer rib 5 .020 photo etched brass WP3625 TS1, Elevator Hinge Block stock 3/32 (2.4mm) square bass To build the stabilizer (Figure 3.1), first build the front spar (TM2). It is made of one piece of 3/32”... -
Page 29: Rudder
The elevator’s leading edge (TM4) is a 3/32” (2.4mm) brass rod tapered to match the trailing edge thickness at the tips as shown on Sheet D. This is done by hammering the tips to deform them. Before deforming, slide ribs TP8 onto it. Make two trailing edges (TM5) by bending 1/16 (1.6mm) rod to shape. -
Page 30: Connecting The Controls
WP163K TM7, Leading edge stock 3/32 (2.4mm) brass rod .020 photo etched brass Rudder rib 1 .020 photo etched brass TP10 Rudder rib 2 .020 photo etched brass TP11 Control horn WP0976 Hinges stock Copper tape The comma-shaped rudder forms part of the iconic look of the Dr.1. Bend the edge (TM6) to shape from 1/16”... -
Page 31: Fuselage Bracing
E. Fuselage bracing Add the fuselage bracing wires and turnbuckles as shown on Sheet E. Put in all except for those on either side of the cockpit at this time. See Figure 3.5 for a detail photograph of typical installation. Figure 3.5 Fuselage Bracing Detail F. - Page 32 (18.8mm) long WP266K LM3, Landing gear stock 5/32 x 5/16 rectangular tube (4mm x8mm), .014 wall, 3.25” (8.25cm) long spar 1/16 brass rod, .36” long WP162K LM4, Suspension posts stock WP162K LM5, Front and rear stock 1/16: (1.6mm) Brass rod, 3.7" (9.4cm) long spars WP128 LM6, 2...
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Page 33: Stage 5: Building The Oberursel Engine And Propeller
Best to make a simple jig from scrap with 1/16” (1.6 mm) holes, 1.74” apart. Glue on Tip Ribs (LW2) and add trailing edge (LS1), cut from .016” (.4mm) wire. Insert the axel in the spar and glue on the spacers (LM2), which keep the axel from sliding out of the spar. - Page 34 Rotary engines have a stationary crankshaft with the cylinders and propeller rotating around it. The kit is designed to move the same way. The completed engine is shown in Figure 5.1 Figure 5.1 Completed Engine on Model The nine cylinders each have a single intake manifold (EC4). In the kit, this is cast with valve train as one part.
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Page 35: Propeller
Paint the crankcase (EC2) dark grey but keep the paint off the surfaces that mate with other parts. Epoxy the cylinders into the crankcase. Paint the crankcase rear (EC5) light gray and epoxy to the crankcase. Take care that the pins for the spark plug wires are aligned as shown on Sheet E. -
Page 36: Stage 6: Building The Cockpit And Connecting The Controls To The Engine
propeller laminate 4 1/16 walnut propeller laminate 5 1/16 bass propeller laminate 6 1/16 walnut propeller laminate 7 1/16 bass The propeller on the DR1 is laminated from seven layers of alternating bass and walnut as was true of the original aircraft. Details for the lamination order are on Sheet D. Use the center hole and the bolt circle to align the layers and then sand to shape (see Figure 5.3). -
Page 37: Engine Connections And Installation
A. Engine connections and installation The connection of the engine and controls are shown in Figure 6.1. Two different sizes of wire are used to represent all controls and hoses, 30G (thin) and 20G (thicker) as represented in the figure by thin and thick lines. The circled numbers give a good sequence for assembling this stage of the model and reference is made to these in the following instructions with a “#”. -
Page 38: Spent Ammo Can
Epoxy the Rear Mount (EC11) to the Motor Mount Rear (FC2b). Feed the wires connected to the EC10 through the engine mount and firewall and below EC11. Then, epoxy the shaft to the rear mount and the motor mount front to FC2a. Be sure the wires exit the motor mount assembly on the bottom as shown in Figure 6.2. -
Page 39: Ammo Can And Tachometer
Paint the grips brown, the gun triggers silver and the blip switch red as shown in Figure 6.3 Figure 6.3 Control Yoke Detail Connect a 5” (125mm) length of this wire to the throttle as shown in Figure 6.3. This will be connected to the carburetor in # 6. -
Page 40: Fuel/Air Management
These are wired as shown in Figure 6.1, #5. Mount the Magneto Switch to its bracket (FP22) and attach to the upper fuselage stringer on the left side of the cockpit as shown on Sheet A. The Manual Magneto (Sheet A) is mounted on its bracket (FP23) and glued to the floorboard just below the Magneto Switch F. -
Page 41: Final Cockpit Details
The seat in this kit is made the same way as that in the original Dr.1. Form the aluminum back (FP3) as shown in Sheet D. Epoxy to bottom (FW14). Clear finish the bottom. Round the edges of the cushion (FW15) and paint to look like fabric (or fabric cover the top side) and glue to bottom. -
Page 42: Installing The Lower And Middle Wings
The guns on the Dr.1 are LMG 08s manufactured at the Spandau Arsenal and, because of the Arsenal imprint on the cover, these are known as Spandaus. They are 7.92mm with a muzzle velocity: 2,821 feet per second (860 m/sec) and a range of 2,200 yards (2,000 m) at 400-500 rounds per minute. -
Page 43: Adding The Landing Gear
Take care with span wise spacing so that not only are these struts straight up and down, but that when you add the top wing, the struts between the middle and top wing are in the same plane as those mounted here. D. -
Page 44: Coaming And Padding
They should lie along the top surface of the wing and mate against FP5. This is done by rolling the front edge to match the shape of the airfoil as can be seen in Figure 7.3.They may overlap each other at the center, either leave this or trim. Then add FP6a (right) and FP6b (left) to form the front edge of the cockpit. -
Page 45: Mounting The Top Wing
F. Mounting the Top Wing Part # Name Count Material FC32 Top wing strut Cast Britannia FC20 Turnbuckle Cast Britannia With the model in the jig, the upper wing can now be mounted. Be sure the sockets in the fuselage for the Top Wing Strut FC32s are clean. Both struts are cast the same. To make a left and a right remove the bracing eyelets on the longer, rear legs of each strut since bracing is only between the front legs. -
Page 46: Bibliography
Bibliography Fokker Dr.I; The Ace’s Aircraft, Toimaz Kowalski and Marek Rys, Kagero, 2011. Wonderful illustrations with extensive detail. Fokker Dr.I In Detail, Achim Sven Engles, Fokker Team Schorndorf (http://www.collectors- edition.de/f-t-s_titel_english.htm Achim Engles started researching Fokker’s planes when he was in his teens. He has now researched and built replicas of many of them, including two Dr.1s. - Page 48 Sopwith Camel – MA1030 Albatros – MA1001 Nieuport 28 – MA1002 Curtiss Jenny – MA1010 Wright Flyer – MA1020 Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. dba Model Expo – Hollywood, Florida Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. http://www.modelexpo-online.com...
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