Page 1 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Welcome to the Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer. Version 1.68, September 28 , 2016 Repetier-Host Edition Copyright 2014 by Gene Buckle Licensed as Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Questions or corrections should be emailed to...
Page 2: Read Me First
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Read Me First! This document is your instruction manual for your new SeeMeCNC® 3D printer machine. Before using your new 3D printer, thoroughly read and understand this manual for safe and effective operation of the machine.
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Table of Contents READ ME FIRST!.............................2 0 – Introduction and Acknowledgments....................6 1 – Required and Optional Tools And Materials..................7 2 – Visual Bill of Materials........................11 3 – Prepping the Hot End and Power Supply...................24 Preparing the Hot End........................24 Preparing the Power Supply......................27...
Page 4 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wire Routing..........................126 11 – Installing the Drive Belts........................129 Belt Routing..........................130 Installing the Belt Clamps......................131 Adjusting the Belt Tension......................136 12 – Assembling the EZStruder and Filament Holder................137 Preparing the EZStruder.......................138 Mounting the EZStruder.......................141 Installing the EZStruder Mount and Filament Holder..............143 Wiring the EZStruder's Stepper Motor..................145...
Page 5 Installing the PEEK Fan Shroud....................248 24 – Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud....................252 25 – Repetier-Host..........................256 Appendix A: Quick Disconnects in Your Rostock MAX v2..............266 Wiring the EZStruder Extension Cable..................266 Wiring the Fans, Hot End, and Thermistor Connectors..............268 Installing Connectors on the Thermistor and Heating Resistors..........270 Attaching the Hot End to the Hot End Mounting Plate..............274...
Page 6: Introduction And Acknowledgments
3D printer. Please read this entire guide before you begin assembly of your new Rostock MAX v2! It will help you avoid any unpleasant surprises and will ensure that you’ve got everything you need BEFORE...
Page 7: Required And Optional Tools And Materials
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 1 – Required and Optional Tools And Materials Before you begin assembly of your Rostock MAX v2, please make sure you’ve got everything on the following list of tools and additional materials. • P1 & P2 sized Phillips screwdrivers •...
Page 8 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide • A small razor knife like an X-Acto knife. This will be handy for cleaning the flashing off the injection molded parts. • 1/2” wide roll of Kapton tape • Uninsulated crimp on connectors, sized for 22-18ga wire.
Page 9 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The following is a list of optional things that can make your life easier in the long run. • Electrician's tape. • Waxed lacing cord. You can use this in place of wire ties in pretty much any application. You can find it here: http://www.skygeek.com/wht-string.html.
Page 10 That's the tool that I use on my projects. It's reasonably priced at $34.95. There was a great discussion on the SeeMeCNC forums recently on how to properly use this kind of crimping tool. I recommend you check it out if you haven't used this kind of tool before.
Page 11: Visual Bill Of Materials
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 2 – Visual Bill of Materials Your Rostock MAX v2 kit should contain four laser cut Melamine sheets, a large box containing hardware, injection molded parts, the RAMBo controller and the required wiring. The box will also contain a 450W ATX style power supply.
Page 12 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Take special care when removing the laser cut parts from the sheets. Sometimes the laser doesn't quite cut all the way through. If you find a part like this, you'll want to gently score the back side of the sheet along the faint cut line and then press the part out from the front of the sheet.
Page 13 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The cardboard box contains all the non-melamine components required to build the Rostock MAX v2. Many are in individual baggies, some are in heat-sealed bag “packs”. As you go through the following Bill of Materials, please count and check off each item. This is important as you don't want to be short a vital part during the build.
Page 14 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 6 each, #6-32, 5/8” Socket Head Cap Screws. Used for mounting the U-Joint plates to the Cheapskate plates. (___) 12 each, #6-32, 1-3/4” Phillips Pan Head Stainless Steel screws. Used for 608 idlers in the motor mounts as well as the hot end standoffs.
Page 15 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 10 each, #4-40 T-Nuts. Used for belt clamps and RAMBo mounting. (___) 4 each, #4-40, 3/4” Phillips Flat Head Machine screws. Used for mounting the RAMBo Controller. (___) 6 each, #4-40, 1/2” Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap screws. Used for the belt clamps.
Page 16 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 18 each, #6 Stainless Steel Flat washers. Used on the 608 bearings that go in the top & bottom t-slot rails. (___) 6 each, #4 Stainless Steel Flat washers. Used with the belt clamp screws.
Page 17 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Hardware Pack #2 (___) 18 each, 608 Cheapskate Idler Bearing Spacer. Used for belt idlers. (___) 12 each, 608 Cheapskate Carriage Bearing Spacers (black). (___) 12 each, 608 Cheapskate Eccentric Bearing Spacers (gray). Your kit may include Acetal u-joints instead of the machined aluminum version.
Page 18 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 10 each, Plastic Bearing Rollers. 4 are used for mounting the RAMBo and six are used for the belt clamps. (___) 12 each, Wire ties. Used for wire management or Barbie Handcuffs.Your call. (___) 1 each, GT2 2mm pitch belt pulley pack. Includes six grub screws and hex wrench.
Page 19 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 1 each, 15 Tooth Gear. Used for manually operating extruder motor. (___) 6 each, Binder Clips. Used to hold the Borosilicate glass build plate to the Onyx heated bed.
Page 20 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Rostock MAX v2 Electronics and Hardware Pack #4 (___) 1 each, RAMBo Electronic Control Board with screw terminals and end stop wires. (___) 1 each, USB Cable. (___) 1 each, Onyx Heated Bed Kit. (___) 1 each, LCD Smart Controller with SD card, LCD to RAMBo Adapter Kit and 1 Soft Touch 5mm knob.
Page 21 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 1 each, 30x30x10mm 12VDC fan. Used for part cooling. (___) 1 each, 40x40x10mm 12VDC fan. RAMBo cooling fan. (___) 10 feet, 18ga, 4 conductor wire. Used for the hot end power and thermistor. (___) 10 feet, 22ga, 4 conductor wire. Used to extend wiring for extruder motor.
Page 22 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) 24 each, Bearing Sleeves. Used to cover 608ZZ bearings. (___) 6 each, Rostock MAX Delta Arms. (___) 1 each, EZStruder Cold End Kit. Includes stepper motor mounting hardware. (___) 1 each, Hot End Kit. Includes hot end, heating resistors, thermistor,...
Page 23 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Smoked Acrylic Parts Pack (___) 1 each, Smoked Acrylic parts pack. Includes, LCD face, LCD sides (left & right), base and top covers. Miscellaneous Parts (___) 1 each, 300mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass Build Plate. Used with Onyx Heated Bed.
Page 24: Prepping The Hot End And Power Supply
3 – Prepping the Hot End and Power Supply Preparing the Hot End The hot end for your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer uses Permatex Ultra Copper RTV to hold both the heating resistors and the temperature sensor (the thermistor) in place. Because it takes a few hours for the RTV to set completely (I recommend letting it cure over night), it's a good idea to get that started now.
Page 25 Don't be surprised if your application of RTV is not nearly as neat as shown above. These hot end assembly photos were shot by Andy Oprisko, a SeeMeCNC employee. He's literally built hundreds of hot ends and is very, very good at it.
Page 26 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Set the hot end aside, with the nozzle pointing up. We're going to prep the thermistor for installation next. Take the short length of PTFE tubing from the thermistor package and cut it in half. Remove the thermistor from the paper protector (aka The Post-It! Of Shielding) and slide the a PTFE tube on to each of the thermistor leads as shown below.
Page 27: Preparing The Power Supply
Fig. 3-8: Thermistor installed. Preparing the Power Supply Your Rostock MAX v2 uses a standard, 450 Watt ATX computer power supply to provide power to the RAMBo controller, the Onyx heated bed and the hot-end. All of these components require 12V DC.
Page 28 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once you've got the needed wires cut free from their connectors, you'll want to get the two crimp-on spade lug connectors out of the power switch package. Fig. 3-10: Power switch and crimp-on spade lugs.
Page 29 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now take the four long black wires from the bundle and strip about 3/4” of insulation from each. Tightly twist them together as shown below. Do the same for the four long yellow wires. Fig. 3-13: Twisted Wires! The remaining two yellow and two black wires only need about 3/8”...
Page 30 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 3-13: Wires installed in the RAMBo power connector. I made Fig. 3-13 pretty big so you can see exactly how it is supposed to be wired up. Once you have the connector installed, grab a couple of the wire ties (or lacing cord!) and bind up the black &...
Page 31: Building The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 4 – Building the Base In order to build the base, you'll need the following parts: 1. (___) Base Plate Bottom, Base Plate Top (Not Shown) 2. (___) Vertical Supports (3) 3. (___) RAMBo Mounting Legs (2) 4.
Page 32 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In addition to the parts listed above, you'll also need the power supply mounting plate, shown below. Fig. 4-2: Power Supply Mounting Plate.
Page 33: Installing The Feet
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing The Feet Set the base plate upside down on your build table and install the six feet as shown below. You won't be installing the rubber “shoes” until the end of the build. The shoes are high-friction parts and it will hamper your ability to spin the machine around on your table while building it.
Page 34: Preparing The Vertical Supports
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Preparing the Vertical Supports The vertical supports need to have four #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and two #6-32, 1/2” Stainless Steel flat head screws installed in each one. The simplest way to install the lock nuts is to use a pair of needle nosed pliers and grip the nut as shown in Fig.
Page 35 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The two following illustrations should help clarify how the nylon lock nuts fit into the nut pockets. This method is used throughout the build. Ill. 4-1: Placing the nylon lock nut. Ill. 4-2: Lock nut installed.
Page 36 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-8: Installing the screw. Fig. 4-9: Correct screw depth.
Page 37: Installing The Vertical Supports And Power Supply
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Vertical Supports and Power Supply Before the two back vertical supports can be installed, we need to install the power supply on the power supply mounting plate with the four #6-32, 1/2” Nylon pan head screws.
Page 38 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The power supply base is held in place with the vertical supports that are installed to either side of it. You'll install all three parts at the same time – the fit tolerance is loose enough that they just drop in.
Page 39 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Figs. 4-12 and 4-13 are provided to give you a bit of additional detail as to how the mount rests on the vertical supports. The 1/2” screws are not shown in Figs. 4-12 & 4-13 but should be present! Fig.
Page 40 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Get four #6-32, 1” Stainless Steel pan head screws and attach them to the two vertical supports you just installed. See the image below for an example. Fig. 4-14: Screws installed in vertical support Make sure you leave the screws a bit loose – you'll need a bit of “slop” to help you align the tabs when you install the top plate on the base.
Page 41 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Use two #6-32, 1” Stainless Steel pan head screws to attach the front vertical support over the two RAMBo legs as shown below. Like the two back supports, leave this a bit loose in order to assist with fitting the top.
Page 42: Installing The Drive Gears On The Stepper Motors
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Drive Gears on the Stepper Motors For this step you'll need three of the four stepper motors, the drive gear wheel pack and some blue thread locking compound. Fig. 4-18: Setting up the first stepper.
Page 43: Assembling The Tower Supports
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the Tower Supports For this step, you'll need the following materials: 1. (___) Stepper Motor Support Plates (3) 2. (___) Tower Support Plates (3) 3. (___) Cheapskate Idler Bearing Spacers (12) 4. (___) 608ZZ Roller Bearings (6) 5.
Page 44 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide First up, you'll need to put together the six belt support bearings by sandwiching each 608ZZ bearing between a pair of the black idler bearing spacers. Fig. 4-22: Idler bearing parts. Fig. 4-23: Assembled idler bearing.
Page 45 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Make sure you build the third stepper motor support shown exactly as shown in Fig. 4-27. When you're finished, you should have three stepper motor support assemblies that look exactly like the three shown in Fig. 4-28.
Page 46 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now install the 12 #6-32 Nylon lock nuts in the locations shown in Fig. 4-29. Make sure the flat faces of the nuts are facing “out” towards the edge of the part, just like you did for the three vertical supports.
Page 47 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install two of the idler bearing assemblies on the two screws you just inserted and add the tower support plate on top. Add two #6-32 flat washers and two #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and tighten them down only enough to start engaging the Nylon.
Page 48 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Finish assembling the other two tower supports. Install the three tower supports as shown in Figs. 4-34 and 4-35. The X (on the left) and Y (on the right) axis tower supports are opposites of one another as you can see in Fig.
Page 49: Installing The Top Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Top Plate The next step requires that you open up the Onyx Heated Bed package and remove the included #4-40 T-Nuts. These will be installed on the underside of the top plate as indicated by the green squares in Fig.
Page 50 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to install the top plate on the base you've assembled, you'll need to carefully begin to align the tabs in the three vertical supports and the three tower supports with the notches in the top plate.
Page 51: Installing The Rev2 Onyx Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 5A – Installing the Rev2 Onyx Heated Bed If your Onyx heated bed is labeled 'Rev3', please skip to Section 5B. If the Onyx is labeled 'Rev5' or 'Rev6', please skip to section 5C.” For this task you'll need the remaining parts in the Onyx Heated Bed package: 1.
Page 52: Installing The Thermistor, Led And Power Wires
“heat spreader” plate in the future. Even if you never expect to use such an accessory (not sold by SeeMeCNC!), you still need to cover the center hole where the thermistor is installed from the bottom. This will prevent the RTV used in the process from raising above the top surface of the Onyx.
Page 53 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As you did with the hot end thermistor, dip the end of the heated bed thermistor into some RTV and insert it in the center hole in the Onyx as shown below. Make sure you've got your thermistor oriented the way I show it.
Page 54 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once you've got the thermistor in the Onyx, I want you to spread the thermistor leads apart such that each one crosses the center of a solder pad and then tape the thermistor in place using a short strip of Kapton tape.
Page 55 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide With the Onyx still upside down, I want you to install the resistor as shown in Fig. 5A-7. The resistor is soldered from the side of the Onyx facing you, not the opposite side as you'd normally do when soldering in parts.
Page 56 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Cut 21” off the 18ga, four conductor cable included with your kit and remove the black & red wires from it. These are the power wires that need to be soldered to the power pads on the bottom of the Onyx.
Page 57 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Repeat the process with the red wire as shown in Fig. 5A-11. Fig. 5A-11: Power wires soldered down. Now you need to attach the thermistor signal leads. You'll find them in the box that the RAMBo came in.
Page 58 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Strip about 1/8” of the insulation of the bare ends of the thermistor wires and solder them on top of the solder pads that are located to the red wire. One wire per pad and take care to avoid solder bridges.
Page 59: Mounting The Onyx Heated Bed To The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the Onyx Heated Bed to the Base In order to mount the Onyx on the base, you'll need to route the power and thermistor signal wires through the center of the base as shown below.
Page 60 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now it's time to attach the Onyx and its mounting plate to the base – grab the round nylon spacers and the six #4-40 flat head screws that were included with the Onyx. Adjust the position of the printer so that the Z axis is farthest away from you.
Page 61 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5A-17:Screw tightening order. When you've got all six screws loosely installed, carefully take up any extra slack in the Onyx wiring by carefully pulling any extra through the center hole in the base. Tighten the six screws using the order shown in Fig.
Page 62: Installing The Rev3 Onyx Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 5B – Installing the Rev3 Onyx Heated Bed For this task you'll need the remaining parts in the Onyx Heated Bed package: 1. (___) Thermistor Pack. Includes a red LED, PTFE insulation tubing, a thermistor and a small resistor.
Page 63: Installing The Thermistor, Led And Power Wires
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Thermistor, LED and Power Wires Before you begin wiring up the Onyx, please place a short length of Kapton tape over the thermistor hole in the center of the heated bed. This will protect the top of the thermistor as well as prevent RTV from leaking on the top of the board.
Page 64 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As you did with the hot end thermistor, dip the end of the heated bed thermistor into some RTV and insert it in the center hole in the Onyx as shown below. Make sure you've got your thermistor oriented the way I show it.
Page 65 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, solder down the leads to the solder pads. Make sure you don't create a solder bridge between the two pads. Use only enough solder to do the job. When you're done, clip off the excess leads.
Page 66 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Bend the leads over so they are laying flat against the two solder pads as shown below. Fig. 5B-10: Bend the LED leads. Solder the two LED leads down and trim the leads flush. Fig. 5B-11: Soldered.
Page 67 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide After you've trimmed the leads on the LED, press the LED back through the hole so the tip of the LED is flush or slightly below the top surface of the Onyx. This will ensure that the LED won't be pressing up against the Borosilicate glass plate when it's installed.
Page 68 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Solder the resistor into place and trim off the excess lead. Fig. 5B-16: Resistor soldered into place. Cut 17” off the 18ga, four conductor cable included with your kit and remove the black & red wires from it.
Page 69 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Flatten the ends of the black & red wires and solder them in place as shown. Please pay special attention to what pads the black & red wires are attached to! If you install them backwards, the LED will not light up when power is being fed to the heated bed! Fig.
Page 70 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you need to attach the thermistor signal leads. You'll find them in the box that the RAMBo came in. It's a long, two wire (both white) cable with a connector fitted to one end.
Page 71: Mounting The Onyx Heated Bed To The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the Onyx Heated Bed to the Base In order to mount the Onyx on the base, you'll need to route the power and thermistor signal wires through the center of the “snowflake” mounting plate and the base as shown below.
Page 72 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now it's time to attach the Onyx and its mounting plate to the base – grab the round nylon spacers and the six #4-40 flat head screws that were included with the Onyx. Fig. 5B-24:Attaching the Onyx & mounting plate.
Page 73 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5B-25: Screw tightening pattern When you've got all six screws loosely installed, carefully take up any extra slack in the Onyx wiring by carefully pulling any extra through the center hole in the base. Tighten the six screws using the order shown in Fig.
Page 74: Installing The Rev5/6 Onyx Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 5C – Installing the Rev5/6 Onyx Heated Bed For this task you'll need the remaining parts in the Onyx Heated Bed package: 1. (___) Thermistor Pack. Includes two red LEDs, PTFE insulation tubing, a thermistor and two resistors.
Page 75: Installing The Thermistor, Power Leds And Power Wires
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Thermistor, Power LEDs and Power Wires Before you begin wiring up the Onyx, please place a short length of Kapton tape over the thermistor hole in the center of the heated bed. This will protect the top of the thermistor as well as prevent RTV from leaking on the top of the board.
Page 76 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As you did with the hot end thermistor, dip the end of the heated bed thermistor into some RTV and insert it in the offset hole in the Onyx as shown below. Make sure you've got your thermistor oriented as shown.
Page 77 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, solder down the leads to the solder pads. Make sure you don't create a solder bridge between the two pads. Use only enough solder to do the job. When you're done, clip off the excess leads.
Page 78 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5C-13: First one.. Fig. 5C-14: ..and getting ready for the other!
Page 79 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you're done soldering the leads, trim them as shown below. Fig. 5C-15: Both LEDs installed & trimmed. After you've trimmed the leads on the LEDs, press the LEDs back through the hole so the tip of each LED is flush or slightly below the top surface of the Onyx.
Page 80 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The next step is to install the resistors that the hot end and Onyx power LEDs need to operate. Install the resistor for the heated bed LED first. Bend the leads on the resistor and position it over the solder pads and solder into place as shown below.
Page 81 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Cut 17” off the 18ga, four conductor cable included with your kit and remove the black, red, white and green wires from it. These are the power wires that need to be soldered to the power pads on the bottom of the Onyx.
Page 82 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you need to attach the thermistor signal leads. You'll find them in the box that the RAMBo came in. It's a long, two wire (both white) cable with a connector fitted to one end.
Page 83 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Strip about 1/8” from the white & green wires. These are used as the power wires for the hot end LED and are installed as shown below. Make sure you've got the green wire attached to the “+”...
Page 84: Mounting The Onyx Heated Bed To The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the Onyx Heated Bed to the Base If you have a Rev6 Onyx heated bed, the support platform will look like this: The bed support should be oriented such that the feature outlined in green above, should be...
Page 85 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to mount the Onyx on the base, you'll need to route the power and thermistor signal wires through the center of the “snowflake” mounting plate and the base as shown below. I recommend binding the power wires together with waxed lacing cord. This helps manage the wiring and make it easier to deal with.
Page 86 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now it's time to attach the Onyx and its mounting plate to the base – grab the round nylon spacers and the six #4-40 flat head screws that were included with the Onyx. Fig. 5C-28:Attaching the Onyx & mounting plate.
Page 87 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5C-29: Screw tightening order. When you've got all six screws loosely installed, carefully take up any extra slack in the Onyx wiring by carefully pulling any extra through the center hole in the base. Tighten the six screws using the order shown in Fig.
Page 88: Installing The Towers & Tower Wiring
5. (___) 26ga black & red wire Threading the Towers In the Rostock MAX v2, you'll be routing the hot end, extruder stepper and end-stop wiring through the center of the three towers. If you're upgrading a Rostock MAX v1 and using the original towers, please make sure to gently file off any sharp edges on either end of each tower.
Page 89 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The 18ga, four conductor cable is the first one we're going to use. When you're done stripping it, you should have something like this: Fig. 6-1: 18ga, four conductor hot end cabling. Take one of the aluminum extrusions and thread this wire right through the small hole in the center of the channel.
Page 90 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now grab the 22ga, four conductor cable and strip the jacket off of it if you haven't already. Fig. 6-3: 22ga wire with the jacket removed. Next, grab the little bag that the 26ga wires are in. You'll want to unspool all of it and cut it in half so that you've got two equal lengths of black wire and two of red wire.
Page 91 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You'll need to pair up a black and red wire and then spindle the end as shown: Fig. 6-5: Twisted fan wires. Do this for the other black & red pair and then spindle them together with the 22ga wire. This whole bundle will go down the center of the next aluminum tower extrusion.
Page 92 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you'll need to grab the end-stop wire bundle from the box the RAMBo was shipped in. When you unspool the wires, you should end up with three pairs of wires, one black and one white.
Page 93 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Repeat the process for the next remaining pairs of wires – label them “Y” and “Z”. You'll need to know which one is which and it's a lot easier to do it now than to figure it out once everything is all assembled.
Page 94: Setting The Towers
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Setting the Towers Now it's time to set each tower in its respective tower support assembly. We're going to start with the Z axis – remember, it's the one right behind the power supply. In order to set the Z axis tower (the one with the 18ga wires!), you'll need to turn the T-Slot nut plates such that they're oriented vertically as shown below.
Page 95 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, you're going to thread the wires coming out of the Z axis tower through the “post” hole in the top of the base that's right over the T-Slot nut plates. Now carefully set the end of the tower in the post hole and slide it in.
Page 96 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now repeat the tower setting operation for the X axis. Fig. 6-14: X axis tower set and wire routed. And again for the Y axis tower. Fig. 6-15: Y axis tower set and wire routed.
Page 97: Assembling The Top Section
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 7 – Assembling the Top Section In order to assemble the top section of the Rostock MAX v2, you're going to need the following components: 1. (___) Top Section Base Plate 2. (___) Tower Spacers (3) 3.
Page 98: Prepping The Upper Tower Mounts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Prepping the Upper Tower Mounts Before you can install the upper tower mounts, three tower depth stop screws need to be installed as shown below. Fig. 7-2: Upper tower mounts (preliminary). These screws perform the same function as the ones previously installed in the lower tower mounts.
Page 99: Installing The Upper Tower Mounts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Upper Tower Mounts The upper tower mounts don't fit in the tower sockets without being a bit clever in the installation process. Take two upper tower mounts (make sure the one on your left has a tower depth stop screw installed!) and set them into the tower socket as shown in Fig.
Page 100 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now carefully spread them apart so that they're flush with the sides of the tower pocket. Fig. 7-5: Tower supports fully seated. Now you want to insert one of the tower mount spreader blocks as shown below.
Page 101 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 7-8: All three upper tower supports installed.
Page 102: Installing The End Stop Switches
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the End Stop Switches For this step, you'll need the following parts: 1. (___) End Stop Switches (3) 2. (___) #2-56, 5/8” Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw (6) 3. (___) #2-56 Finish Nuts (6)
Page 103 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Using two #2-56 x 5/8” pan head screws and two #2-56 finish nuts, install the end-stop switches on to the upper tower support as shown. Make sure you don't over tighten the screws, or you'll crack the switch body.
Page 104 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you're finished, the underside of the top plate should look like Fig. 7-13 below. Fig. 7-13: Three end-stop switches installed.
Page 105: Installing The Upper Tower Mounting Hardware
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Upper Tower Mounting Hardware For this step, you'll need the following parts: 1. (___) ¼-20, 1/2” Button Head Cap Screws (12) 2. (___) T-Slot Nut Plates (12) Fig. 7-16: Upper tower mounting hardware.
Page 106: Assembling And Installing The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 8 – Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages Assembling the Cheapskate Rollers For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Bearing Sleeves (24) 2. (___) 608ZZ Bearings (12) Fig. 8-1: Bearing Sleeves. Fig. 8-2: 608ZZ Bearings.
Page 107: Assembling The U-Joint Carriers
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 8-4: Finished Cheapskate rollers. Assembling the U-Joint Carriers For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) U-Joint Carriage Base (3) 2. (___) #6-32, 5/8” Socket Head Cap Screws (6) 3. (___) #6-32 Nylon Lock Nuts (6) 4.
Page 108 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Quick point on the Melamine Cheapskate parts – they're designed to only go together one way and it's easy to accidentally flip one or both of them. The easiest way to figure out how they go is to put the inside and outside carriage plates together with the “eyes”...
Page 109 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, you'll need to install a #6-32, 1/2” Stainless Steel flat head screw. This screw is what triggers the end-stops when the printer is commanded to its “home” position. Install the screw exactly as shown in Fig. 8- 9.
Page 110: Installing The U-Joints
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the U-Joints For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) U-Joint Spring Clip (3) 2. (___) #4, 3/8” Pan Head Sheet Metal Screw (6) 3. (___) 3-1/8” U-Joint Axle (3) 4. (___) Machined Aluminum (or Acetal) U-Joints (6) Fig.
Page 111 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Carefully inspect the u-joint axles. Ensure that they're perfectly straight and are free of any scarring. If the axle is bent or badly scarred, contact support@seemecnc.com for a replacement. Test each u-joint by spinning it on the axle. They should all spin freely. If they don't check for burrs on the u-joint and de-burr as needed.
Page 112 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Slide two u-joints on to the u-joint axle as shown below. If your kit shipped with the injection molded u-joints, make sure you slide the u-joint on to the axle with the ejector pin marks facing out. This will prevent any plastic scale from scraping against the u-joint carriage.
Page 113 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can install the spring clip that retains the u-joints. Fig. 8-13:U-Joint spring clip installed. Fig. 8-14:U-Joint spring clip installed. Repeat this task for all three u-joint carriers.
Page 114: Installing The Belt Clip T-Nuts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Belt Clip T-Nuts For this step you'll need the following components: 1. (___) #4-40 T-Nuts (6) Fig. 8-15: Belt Clip T-Nuts. Install two #4-40 T-Nuts in the back of all three Cheapskate inner carriage plates as shown.
Page 115: Assembling And Installing The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) #6-32, 2” Stainless Steel Pan Head Screws (12) 2. (___) #6-32 Nylon Lock Nuts (12) 3. (___) Cheapskate Bearing Black Plastic Spacer (12) 4.
Page 116 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Start off by installing the black & gray spacers to each one of the 12 Cheapskate rollers you built previously. Fig. 8-18:Standard spacers & roller. Fig. 8-19:Assembled std. roller. Fig. 8-20:Eccentric spacers & roller. When you assemble the eccentric rollers, make sure that you've got the eccentric spacers aligned with one another as shown in Fig.
Page 117 Make sure that when you install the Cheapskate, it's oriented with the flat surface to the top and the “eyes” are oriented right-side up. See the first page of this guide if you're not sure. The “Blinky” eyes are part of the SeeMeCNC logo.
Page 118 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install the four #6-32 Nylon lock nuts on to the 2” screws and tighten them down. Fig. 8-26:Don't forget to tighten them! Fig. 8-25:Installing the #6-32 nuts. Repeat these steps for the two remaining Cheapskate carriages.
Page 119: Adjusting The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Adjusting the Cheapskate Carriages Once you've gotten all three carriages installed, you'll need to adjust the eccentric spacers in order to tighten the grip of the roller bearings on the aluminum tower. You'll need two 7/16” wrenches in order to make sure that you're adjusting both eccentric spacers at the same time.
Page 120: Installing The Top Plate And Idler Bearings
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 9 – Installing the Top Plate and Idler Bearings For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) #6-32, 1-3/4” Stainless Steel Pan Head Screw (3) 2. (___) #6-32 Nylon Lock Nut (3) 3. (___) 608ZZ Roller Bear (3) 4.
Page 121 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide While completing this section you'll notice a discrepancy between the photos and the text with regard to the idler bearing installation. Originally, I installed the idler bearings into the top plate before mounting it to the towers. Doing that first increases the difficulty in getting the wiring threaded through the openings in the top plate, so I'm going to have you mount the top plate and THEN install the idler bearings.
Page 122 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Carefully align the upper tower mounts with each tower, ensuring that the T-Slot nut plates are able to slide down the notches in the sides of the towers as shown below. Fig. 9-3:Setting the top plate.
Page 123 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assemble an idler bearing out of two black plastic bearings spacers and a 608ZZ roller bearing. Install it into the upper tower mounting as shown below. Use a #6-32 1-3/4” pan head screw and a #6- 32 Nylon lock nut to hold it in place.
Page 124: Wiring The End Stop Switches
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 10 – Wiring the End Stop Switches For this task, you'll be routing the end-stop wires to the end-stop switches and connecting them You'll want to lay the machine flat with the Z axis pointing “up” for this step.
Page 125 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Ill. 10-1:End-stop wire routing hole. Start off with the Z axis end-stop. Thread the Z axis end-stop wires through the opening and attach the spade connectors to the lugs on the switch. You want to connect to the outer two lugs and ignore the center one.
Page 126: Wire Routing
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now go ahead and wire up the X and Y axis end-stop switches. Wire Routing Once all three end-stop switches are wired, carefully pull the slack out of the end-stop wires by carefully pulling them through from the bottom of the X axis tower.
Page 127 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once that's complete, you'll need to tie down the wires using wire ties at the “tie” locations on the right side of each upper mounting bracket. Before you tie the wires down, you'll want to make...
Page 128 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can tie down the end-stop wiring on the top plate. Tie down the end-stop wires in the areas marked by the red boxes. Do not use the tie point marked by the red “X”. This tie point will be used later, but requires special wire routing that I'll cover later.
Page 129: Installing The Drive Belts
Fig. 11-1:Belt Clamp Components. Installing the drive belts on the Rostock MAX v2 is a lot easier than it was on the Rostock MAX v1 kit. As you can see from the parts list required, the same job is done with fewer parts making...
Page 130: Belt Routing
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Belt Routing Take one of the GT2 drive belts and thread it into the notch at the base of the Z tower as shown in Fig. 11-2. Make sure that the belt teeth face in towards the tower.
Page 131: Installing The Belt Clamps
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As the belt passes over the upper idler, make sure it passes through the notch shown outlined in green. Fig. 11-5:Belt going back down to the Cheapskate. Installing the Belt Clamps The simplest way to do this is to clip the Cheapskate in place with a clothespin or other clamp and then pull the upper end of the belt through the belt feed slot in the Cheapskate.
Page 132 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now lay the machine down on your work table such that the Z axis is near you. This makes the next steps a lot easier! Thread the lower belt end through the bottom of the Cheapskate as shown.
Page 133 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (Don't see any cat paws do you? Told ya, invisible cat.) Fig. 11-9:Ready to install clamp fasteners. Take a plastic roller bearing and a #4 flat washer and set them into place in the exposed notch on the belt clamp.
Page 134 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Here's a detail to watch out for when you're installing the belts. Notice in Fig. 11-11 below, the belt teeth on the left are resting on the outside surface of the belt clamp. The belt teeth on the right are correctly engaging the teeth on the clamp.
Page 135 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now carefully roll the printer such that the other side of the belt clamp is face-up and install the other plastic spacer, #4 washer and #6-32 screw. Fig. 11-13:Belt clamp installed! Repeat this task for the X and Y axes. Make sure that while you're working with the belts that...
Page 136: Adjusting The Belt Tension
In order to adjust the idler pulleys you're either going to need a helper or you'll need to lower the Rostock MAX v2 enough that you can hold a screwdriver in your mouth while you use your hands to tighten the idler. It sounds nuts, but it works pretty well.
Page 137: Assembling The Ezstruder And Filament Holder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 12 – Assembling the EZStruder and Filament Holder For this step you'll need the following components: 1. (___) EZStruder Mounting Bracket (1) 2. (___) EZStruder Mounting Bracket Stabilizer (1) 3. (___) EZStruder Mounting Spacers (3) 4.
Page 138: Preparing The Ezstruder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Preparing the EZStruder The EZStruder ships un-assembled, so let's take care of that first. The EZStruder hardware pack consists of the following parts: 1. (___) Filament Tensioner 2. (___) Filament Guide Block and Bowden Tube Mount 3.
Page 139 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The parts kit will also include a push-to-fit connector and that looks like the example in Fig. 12- 3 below. In order to correctly align the hobbed gear on the output shaft of the stepper motor, we need to install the Filament Tensioner first. The tensioner has two screws that are “captured”...
Page 140 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Using the two metric screws included in the hardware pack, install the filament guide block on the face of the stepper motor as shown below. Install the shorter of the two screws into the position marked #1 and the other, longer screw into the position marked #2.
Page 141: Mounting The Ezstruder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the EZStruder For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Assembled EZStruder (1) 2. (___) EZStruder Mounting Bracket (1) 3. (___) EZStruder Mounting Spacers (3) 4. (___) #6-32, 2” Pan Head Screws (2) 5.
Page 142 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide This assembly is extremely simple. Stack the three mounting spacers as shown below and using both of the #6-32 screws and Nylon lock nuts, install the EZStruder on to the mounting bracket. Please note that the screw holes in filament guide are VERY tight. You'll likely be cutting threads into the plastic as you install them.
Page 143: Installing The Ezstruder Mount And Filament Holder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the EZStruder Mount and Filament Holder For this step, you'll need the recently assembled EZStruder mount, the mount stabilizer, two #6- 32, 1” pan head screws and two #6-32 Nylon lock nuts. Slide the mount stabilizer on to the stabilizer slot on the EZStruder mount as shown, then install two #6-32 Nylon lock nuts into the nut pockets.
Page 144 You can install your EZStruder mount in either of the positions marked in red. The currently shipping top finish plate for the Rostock MAX v2 will only accommodate a single extruder, but it will allow it to be installed in either position. The location is entirely your choice.
Page 145: Wiring The Ezstruder's Stepper Motor
At this point you have a decision to make on whether or not you want to install a latching polarized connector to the stepper motor wires in the tower or not. If you do want to go that route, please jump ahead to Appendix A: Quick Disconnects in your Rostock MAX v2.
Page 146 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Cut the connector off of the EZStruder stepper motor and strip 1/2” of insulation off each stepper motor wire and each one of the 22ga wires that you routed up the Y tower. Fig. 12-15:Wires ready for splicing.
Page 147 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When splicing the wires together, please follow the chart below. This is important in order to get the pin assignments correct when you add the connector to the other end of the extension cable. (The connector & pins are supplied as part of the RAMBo parts kit.) If you're color-blind, please get some assistance with this step.
Page 148: Wiring & Assembling The Hot End, Bowden Tube
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 13 – Wiring & Assembling the Hot End, Bowden Tube Preparing the Hot End Wiring For this task, you'll need the short length of heat shrink tubing and the 3/8” Black, Expandable Mesh Loom. Fig. 13-1:Expandable Mesh Loom and Heat Shrink Tubing.
Page 149 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Cut a length of mesh loom that will cover the hot end wires from the top plate to a point about 2.5” short of the end of the wires. Tape the hot end wires together and slide the mesh loom section you just cut over them.
Page 150 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide If you're going to use quick-disconnect connectors for your hot end wiring, please see Appendix A for details on how to do this. When you've got your hot end wired up according to that guide, you can resume your build at Section 14.
Page 151 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Strip off 3/8” of insulation from the 18ga black & red wires coming from the hot end loom and crimp them into the connectors as shown. Fig. 13-11:Power wires connected. At this point, I want you to cover the crimp connectors with a bit of Kapton tape – this will help prevent accidental shorts.
Page 152 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once you've got both thermistor leads connected, cover each connection with Kapton tape (individually) and then bind them together with Kapton as shown in Fig. 13- Fig. 13-14:Both thermistor leads connected. Fig. 13-15:Kapton covered leads.
Page 153 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 13-18:Hot end wiring completed.
Page 154: Attaching The Hot End To The Hot End Mounting Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attaching the Hot End to the Hot End Mounting Plate You'll need the following components to complete this task: 1. (___) Hot End Mounting Nut (1) (Removed from hot end.) 2. (___) Hot End Mounting Plate (1) 3.
Page 155 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attaching the hot end to the mounting plate is very simple. Slide the hot end through the center hole in the mounting plate and then slide the mounting plate spacer over the hot end. Replace the nut (tighten) and the PTF connector (tighten) and you're done.
Page 156: Installing The Bowden Tube
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Bowden Tube For this task you'll need the long PTFE Bowden tube that was included in the Hot End Pack. The mesh in the hot end wiring loom will open up when you compress it. Grip the mesh about 2”...
Page 157: Installing The Effector And Delta Arms
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 14 – Installing the Effector and Delta Arms Assembling the Effector Platform For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Effector Platform (1) 2. (___) Spring Clip (3) 3. (___) U-Joint (Machined Aluminum or Injection Molded) (6) 4.
Page 158 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide First, check the condition of all three u-joints as you did when assembling the u-joint carriers on the Cheapskates. Slide the three u-joint axles into the effector platform as shown below. Make sure that each u- joint is evenly spaced on each side of the effector platform.
Page 159: Installing The Delta Arms
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Repeat the process for the other two u-joint positions. Fig. 14-4:Assembled Effector Platform. Installing the Delta Arms For this task, you'll need the six delta arms included in the kit. Fig. 14-5:Delta Arms. Before installing the delta arms, clean the mold flashing from the inner and outer faces of the arm tips that will come in contact with the u-joints.
Page 160 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide We'll start on attaching the delta arms at the Cheapskate mounted u-joints. The end of the arm grips the u-joint like a spring and can be opened with one finger as you slide it over the u-joint. Make sure that the posts on the u-joints seat fully in the arm end and that the spring clip is oriented as shown in Fig.
Page 161: Installing The Hot End
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 15 – Installing the Hot End For this task you'll need the following components: 1. (___) #6-32 Nylon Lock Nuts (3) 2. (___) 1” Aluminum Spacers (3) 3. (___) #6-32, 1-3/4” Stainless Steel Pan Head Screws (3) Fig.
Page 162 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 15-2:Arms inverted and Onyx covered. Now insert a #6-32, 1-3/4” pan head screw through one of the three mounting holes in the hot end and slide a 1” aluminum spacer over the screw. Then insert the screw into the effector platform as shown below.
Page 163 Now all you need to do is carefully raise each Cheapskate back up to the “operating” position. This assembly step brings up a good suggestion for keeping your Rostock MAX v2 in good shape during transportation. If you invert the arms before you transport the machine, you'll not run the risk of the hot end getting knocked into the build plate.
Page 164: Finishing The Top End
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 16 – Finishing the Top End For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Outer Spool Holder Mount (1) 2. (___) #6-32 Nylon Lock Nuts (5) 3. (___) #6-32, 1” Stainless Steel Pan Head Screws (5) 4.
Page 165: Installing The Spool Holder Mount
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Spool Holder Mount First, insert two of the #6-32 Nylon lock nuts into the spacer plate as shown in Fig. 16-3. Fig. 16-3:Spacer plate nuts. Insert the spacer plate into the outer spool mount and lock it in place with a #6-32, 1” pan head screw.
Page 166 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Below is what the completed assembly looks like. Fig. 16-6:Completed Spool Holder Mount. Flip the mount over and insert three #6-32 Nylon lock nuts into the nut capture pockets. Fig. 16-7:Nuts installed.
Page 167 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The spool mount is going to fit into the top plate notches that are next to the position in which you mounted the extruder. As you probably figured out, the spool mount is held in place with three #6- 32, 1”...
Page 168: Installing The Top Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Top Plate For this task, you're going to need the following components: 1. (___) Top Plate (1) 2. (___) Top Plate Sides (3) 3. (___) #10-32 Black Nylon Thumb Screws (3) 4. (___) #6-32, 1/2” Stainless Steel Flat Head Screws (6) The first thing you'll need to do is locate the #10-32, 5/8”...
Page 169 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As you'll recall, you installed a little Melamine spacer in the upper tower mounts. The hole in the center is where you need to apply the tap. I would advise you lay the machine down to make this operation simpler, unless of course you happen to be in excess of seven feet tall or really like ladders.
Page 170 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The top cover supports have holes in each end, just like the base supports did. The holes are for #6-32, 1/2” flat head screws that are for holding the acrylic covers in place. Make sure you install them as shown, with the logo text facing down.
Page 171 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 16-16:"Helping" the fit. Install all three top cover supports as shown. Fig. 16-17:Top cover supports installed.
Page 172 Move up to the top and tighten the lower pair on each tower first and then the last row. Congrats! There's one last step to take before the mechanical build of your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is completed! That's right, you need to install the spool holder IN the mount! Now pay close attention, this is brutally complex.
Page 173 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now oh so carefully, slide the arms (no, your arms won't fit) into the spool holder as shown. Fig. 16-20:Not your arms. TA DA! Fig. 16-21:Yer done. Okay, so I lied. You're not done yet. You're almost done.
Page 174: Assembling & Installing The Lcd Panel Mount
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 17 – Assembling & Installing the LCD Panel Mount For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Front Panel (1) 2. (___) LCD Mounting Brackets (2) 3. (___) #2-56, 5/8” Pan Head Screws (8) 4.
Page 175: Assembling The Front Panel
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the Front Panel First up, go ahead and install the #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and the #2-56 finish nuts in the nut pockets on the two LCD mounting brackets. After you've gotten all the nuts installed, go ahead and insert the mounting brackets into the front panel as shown below.
Page 176 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now unpack the LCD panel from the bubble wrap and set it into the mounts as shown. Affix with four #2-56 pan head screws. Fig. 17-5:LCD and front panel. Fig. 17-6:LCD attached.
Page 177: Installing The Lcd Trim Panels
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the LCD Trim Panels For this step, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) Acrylic Trim Panel, Left (1) 2. (___) #4, 3/8” Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws (2) 3. (___) Acrylic Trim Panel, Right (1) 4.
Page 178 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now set the LCD trim panel in place as shown below and affix it with two #2-56 pan head screws in the spots indicated. Fig. 17-10:Attaching the LCD trim panel. Now press on the knob (should be in the plastic box the LCD came in) and you're done!
Page 179 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now flip the LCD panel face down and mark the two connectors as shown. Fig. 17-12:Marking the interface connectors.
Page 180: Installing & Connecting The Rambo Controller
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 18 – Installing & Connecting the RAMBo Controller For this step, you're going to need the following materials: 1. (___) RAMBo Mounting Panel (1) 2. (___) 40mm Fan (1) 3. (___) #4-40 T-Nuts (4) 4. (___) Short Wire Ties (2) Fig.
Page 181: Installing The Rambo Cooling Fan
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the RAMBo Cooling Fan Using two short wire ties, mount the 40mm cooling fan as shown. Fig. 18-3:Back view. Fig. 18-2:Mounting the cooling fan. Make sure you've got the fan oriented as shown in order for it to draw air from the correct side.
Page 182: Mounting The Rambo Controller
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the RAMBo Controller For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) RAMBo Mounting Plate (1) 2. (___) RAMBo Controller (1) 3. (___) Plastic Bearing Rollers (4) 4. (___) #4-40, 3/4” Stainless Steel Flat Head Screws (4) Mounting the RAMBo is very straightforward.
Page 183: Soldering The Cooling Fan
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Soldering the Cooling Fan Cut the 2 pin connector off of the 40mm cooling fan and then strip 1/8” of insulation from the wires. Carefully solder the wires in place as shown in Fig. 18-6.
Page 184: Assembling The Rambo Lcd Interface Adapter
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the RAMBo LCD Interface Adapter I've created a short video that does an excellent job of illustrating how this small board is soldered together. You can view the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzdWk5BtttA. When you've finished the assembly, mark the connectors on the adapter as shown below and set the board aside for the moment.
Page 185 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You'll want to bundle up the end-stop wires similarly to how I've done on the right. The X axis end-stop wire should be looped up a little to take up the extra slack it has.
Page 186: Installing The Hot End Thermistor Connector
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Hot End Thermistor Connector Get a pair of crimp pins and a female, two pin locking polarized connector out of the RAMBo parts baggie. We're going to attach this to the 18ga white and green wires that go to the hot end thermistor.
Page 187: Wiring The Rambo Controller - Terminal Block
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wiring the RAMBo Controller – Terminal Block Note that all wiring should be brought through the center opening in the front vertical support! First up, let's get the hot end resistors connected to the RAMBo. Bring the wires forward so they exit the front opening of the printer and trim them so there is 6”...
Page 188 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Because the wires tend to block the labels above the terminal block I'm going to show you a clear photo of the terminal block and then describe how to wire each section. Fig 18-14:The RAMBo Terminal Block Since we've already done the Heat 0 position, we'll do Fan 0 next.
Page 189 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Finally, we've got the connector for the Onyx heated bed. Fig. 18-17:Heat2Bed location. Bring the 18ga Onyx heated bed wires to the front of the machine and trim the same as the others. Strip 1/4” off the ends and insert into the terminal block position marked Heat2Bed.
Page 190: Wiring The Rambo Controller - Plug-In Connectors
Y axis tower. Some Rostock MAX v2 kits will be shipped with stepper motors that come from a secondary source. These motors have a different connector on them and don't have the locking lever that the primary source motors have.
Page 191 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide After crimping the pins on to the wiring, please make sure you follow the wire order in Fig. 18- 20 exactly, otherwise your extruder drive may not operate properly. Fig. 18-20:Extruder extension connector installed. Now bring out the stepper motor wires and connect them into the motor plugs along the bottom edge of the RAMBo controller.
Page 192 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The thermistor connections are next! Plug the two pin thermistor wire coming from the hot end into the position marked “T0”. Plug the two pin thermistor wire coming from the Onyx heated bed into the position marked “T2”.
Page 193 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now the RAMBo board can be installed into the base of the printer. The RAMBo mounting plate has two curved tabs that fit into slots located on the top plate of the base. When installed correctly, the tabs will fit into those notches and the base of the RAMBo mount will rest on the two support legs that you installed back in Chapter 4.
Page 194 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In the plastic box the LCD panel came in, you'll find two gray, flat ribbon cables. These cables connect the LCD to the RAMBo controller via the LCD interface board. Label each end of one ribbon cable with the letter “A”. Label the ends of the other ribbon cable with a “B”.
Page 195 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install the LCD interface board on to the RAMBo controller as shown. Wiring has been omitted for clarity. Fig. 18-27:LCD interface adapter installed. Make sure that the interface adapter board is properly seated on the RAMBo board – it is possible to set the board down offset one row to the left or right and the LCD will not function.
Page 196 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Remove the plastic nut from the power switch and route the black & green wires from the power supply through the nut and then up through the hole in the top plate as shown. Attach the spade connectors to the switch as shown in Fig.
Page 197 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 18-31:RAMBo & Wiring complete!
Page 198: Final Assembly Tasks
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 19 – Final Assembly Tasks Attaching the Base Covers & LCD Panel For this task, you'll need the following components: 1. (___) #10-32, 3/4” Black Nylon Thumb Screws (6) 2. (___) Base Side Covers (2) 3.
Page 199 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide After you've got all six holes tapped, attach the two side panels as shown, using two #10-32, 3/4” thumbscrews for each panel. Fig. 19-4:Side Panel installed. Fig. 19-3:Gene cheats. Now grab the LCD panel and the last two thumbscrews.
Page 200: Attaching The Power And Usb Cables
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 19-7:LCD panel installed. Attaching the Power and USB Cables Attach the power cable to the power supply by routing the cable up through the hole int the bottom of the base as shown. Fig. 19-8:Power cord installed.
Page 201 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you install the power cord, make sure that the line voltage switch is set appropriately for your local power standard. If you're in the USA or a USA-compatible country, you can leave the voltage switch set the default, “115V”. If you're in Europe or in a country that uses 240V for line voltage, you'll need to slide the switch so it reads “240V”.
Page 202: Installing The Acrylic Cover Panels
Installing the Acrylic Cover Panels The Rostock MAX v2 uses laser cut acrylic panels to cover the open spaces on the machine base and on the top assembly. The bottom uses two different sized panels. The one that covers the back of the Z axis is marked with a laser engraved “B”...
Page 203 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Peel the protective paper off the acrylic and install the panel by sliding just behind the left side until the acrylic stops on the 1/2” flat head screw that's installed on the vertical support. Fig. 19-12:Inserting the back acrylic cover.
Page 204 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Carefully bend the acrylic over the Z axis tower and insert it just behind the vertical support on the right. You want to set the panel such that the edge of the acrylic comes into contact with the stop screw that's highlighted in green.
Page 205 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The other two open spaces are filled by the two remaining large acrylic panels that are marked “R/L”. Fig. 19-15:Right & Left panels Just like you did with the back panel, peel the protective film off and install the panels – make sure the engraved lettering is facing in.
Page 206 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Take the three small acrylic covers, peel their protective tape off and install around the top assembly just as you did the lower covers. All three should be the same size. Fig. 19-18:Acrylic top covers.
Page 207 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can install the Borosilicate glass built plate on the Onyx heated bed. You'll need the glass plate and the included binder clips. Center the glass plate on the Onyx and attach the binder clips as shown in Fig. 19-21.
Page 208 One last thing (there's always something else, isn't there?) you should do is a final check of all your wiring in the Rostock MAX v2. Make sure no bare wire is touching any other bare wire, etc. Finally, plug the sucker in and hit the power switch. If everything works as expected, you should here the RAMBo cooling fan (if you listen closely) and the LCD display will display two rows of blocks and no readable text.
Page 209: Driver And Software Installation
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 20 – Driver and Software Installation The Rostock MAX v2 does not include the firmware required to operate it. This was a conscious decision by SeeMeCNC to encourage builders to become more proficient in the operation of their new 3D printer.
Page 210 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The easiest way to find out what port your RAMBo is listening on is to open up the Device Manager and look for the RAMBo entry. In order to discover this bit of information, you'll need to open up Device Manager (right click on My Computer, click “Properties”...
Page 211: Installing The Arduino Ide
The version of the IDE used as of this writing is 1.0.5. Install the Arduino IDE using the downloaded installer. Now you need to download the firmware from SeeMeCNC's github repository. https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX/archive/master.zip Unpack the “master.zip” file that you downloaded into a directory where you can keep track of it.
Page 212: Configuring The Arduino Ide
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Configuring the Arduino IDE Before we can use the IDE to upload the firmware to the RAMBo controller, we need to tell the Arudino IDE what kind of board we have and what communications port it needs to use in order to perform the upload task.
Page 213: Test Upload
The only thing you need to do now is click the “Upload” icon in the Arduino IDE. The upload icon is represented by this symbol: Turn your Rostock MAX v2 on if you haven't already and then click the Upload icon.
Page 214 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When the upload is finished, you should see results similar to that in Fig. 20-6. The “Done uploading” is the status you want. There is no other external evidence that the eeprom_clear program has done its job, but it has!
Page 215: Uploading Repetier-Firmware
Click “File”, “Open” and browse to where you unpacked the master.zip file you downloaded from the SeeMeCNC github repository. Select the file “Repeteir.ino” and click the Open button. Fig. 20-7:Opening Repetier.ino Once it's loaded up, the Arduino IDE is going to look something like this:...
Page 216 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When the upload has finished the RAMBo will restart and you should see the following display on the LCD: Fig. 20-9: It's ALIVE! Congrats again! You've got a living, breathing (hey, work with me here!) 3D printer that you've built yourself.
Page 217: The Lcd And Front Panel Controls
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The LCD and Front Panel Controls Let's go over what information the LCD displays and what the front panel controls do. Fig. 20-10:Default LCD display. 1. Nozzle Temperature. This is the temperature at the nozzle as measured by the thermistor that you installed when you put the hot end together.
Page 218 Next, it's going to send all three Cheapskates to their “home” positions at the top of the Rostock MAX v2 and then the RAMBo controller will reboot itself. If the printer is really going nuts on you, this is the fastest way to make it behave.
Page 219 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide This will tell you at a glance how much time your Rostock MAX v2 has spent printing and how much filament it's used in the process. The time display breaks down into days, hours and minutes.
Page 220: Installing Repetier-Host And Calibrating The Printer
21 – Installing Repetier-Host and Calibrating the Printer This is the fun part! The Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is very easy to calibrate, but it can take some time and a number of iterations to get it as good as you can. You'll want to take your time here because the better you calibrate the printer, the better it will perform.
Page 221 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Click the drop-down next to the “Port:” label and choose the COM port that you used to upload the firmware to the RAMBo with – they're the same. Make sure the rest of the settings on the Connection tab are exactly as shown for your set up.
Page 222 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 21-3: Printer Settings - Printer Shape Just like you did for the Printer tab, make sure your Printer Shape settings match the above example. You'll be changing the Printable Height field to precisely match your printer's height shortly.
Page 223: Initial Function Tests
This is the Manual Control Panel and is the interface you'll use most often while working with the Rostock MAX v2. From here you can home the machine, move it around the work area, heat the hot end or heated bed, turn on fans, etc.
Page 224 Place one hand on the power switch and then on the Manual Control tab, click the Home All icon. It's shown above in green. This will tell the Rostock MAX v2 to send the Cheapskates to their “home” position. What should happen is that all three Cheapskates should head for the top of the machine.
Page 225 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once you've located this area, I want you to change the entry that corresponds to your misbehaving motor from true to false. If you have more than one, change those as well. For example, if your Y axis Cheapskate headed for the floor when you hit the reset button, you'll change INVERT_Y_DIR to false.
Page 226: Printer Calibration
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Experiment with how the machine moves by clicking around the various arrows. Be careful not to drive the hot end outside the boundaries. While learning how the motion controls work, please keep the Z height (the distance from the tip of the hot end to the build surface) a few inches above the build platform.
Page 227 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide It's very important that the temperature controlling algorithm in the RAMBo (the PID loop) be as accurate as possible. To do this, we need to run what is called the “PID Auto tune” routine. This is a firmware function that you run in order to determine the best values for the P(roportional), I(ntegral) and D(erivative) values used by the PID loop.
Page 228 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 21-11 shows how well the controller manages temperature over time. The display we're interested in right now are the red and brown lines. The thin red line represents the actual hot end temperature and the brown line shows an average of the recorded temperature. After a short time, the display will look something like this: Fig.
Page 229 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In a few minutes, the routine will complete, and you'll get output similar to the below example: 18:09:03.735 : Info:PID Autotune start 18:12:41.024 : bias: 68 d: 68 min: 198.03 max: 205.37 18:13:27.277 : bias: 67 d: 67 min: 197.58 max: 202.59 18:14:06.978 : bias: 65 d: 65 min: 198.18 max: 202.22...
Page 230 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to store your new set of PID values, we need to open up the EEPROM table in Repetier-Host. Click on “Config” and then “Firmware EEPROM Configuration”. This will bring up the EEPROM table editor.
Page 231 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide A properly tuned PID look will result in a temperature display that looks similar to the example below. Fig. 22-13: Example of accurate temperature management. The thin green line is the actual set point for the hot end (200C). You can see over time how the actual temperature (thin red line) eventually merges with the center-line of the average temperature line (brown line).
Page 232 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Okay, now it's time to perform the same task, but this time we're going to tune the PID loop for the heated bed. Send the command “M303 P1 S60”. This will start the auto tune process for the heated bed with a 60C target temperature.
Page 233: Setting The Z Height
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Setting the Z Height Bring your hot end and heated bed up to operating temperature. Set the hot end temp to 190C and the heated bed to 55C. We want the hot end and bed to expand to “normal” so we can get a fairly accurate measurement here.
Page 234 When you've reached that point, press the knob to return to the LCD menu and then and select the “Set new Z=0.00” option. This will set the correct Z-Height for your Rostock MAX v2. Now that you know what the correct max Z height is, you'll need to update Repetier-Host with that information.
Page 235: Adjusting The End-Stops
Fig. 22-21:Setting the Printable Height in Repetier-Host. Once you're done, click the “Apply” and then “Ok” buttons to save your changes. Click the Connect icon to connect back up to the Rostock MAX v2. Adjusting The End-Stops Now we need to calibrate the end stops. This ensures that the effector platform your Rostock MAX v2 achieves an accurate nozzle height and parallel travel across the entire bed surface.
Page 236 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Enter the g-code just as you see it on the previous page. After you've entered the two lines, click the Save icon and choose the next script, “Script 2” from the drop down. Enter “G28” on line #1 and “G0 Z0 X77.94 Y-45 F3500”...
Page 237 If you're merely mortal like the rest of us poor suckers, you're going to have to make an additional adjustment. Delta configuration printers like the Rostock MAX v2 have a very interesting geometry that will result in the hot end traveling in a non-flat path if it's not perfectly calibrated. This tiny error will express itself as a “virtual”...
Page 238 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Here's a flowchart that will hopefully clarify the process. Fig. 22-24: Calibrating the Effector Platform.
Page 239 I highly recommend that you check out the “E Steps Fine Tuning” section of Triffid_Hunter's excellent calibration guide. It can be found here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide The other portions of his calibration guide doesn't really apply to the Rostock MAX v2, so it's not necessary to read unless you're simply curious.
Page 240: Tonkabot's Missing Chapter
Instead of renumbering chapters 23 onward, including the included figures (and figure filenames!) I decided to write a bit of filler and dedicate it to Tonkabot. He's the SeeMeCNC support forum user that spotted that chapter 22 seemed to have gone the way of the 13 floor in buildings.
Page 241: First Print: Peek Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 23 – First Print: PEEK Fan Shroud For your first (and second!) prints, you're going to need to have ABS filament handy. This is because the PEEK and Layer fan shrouds can be exposed to temperatures that would turn PLA shrouds into a gooey mess.
Page 242: Configuring Slic3R
“sliced”. You'll be using the slicing utility included with Repeiter-Host called “Slic3r”. To give you a head start on configuring Slic3r, SeeMeCNC has developed a set of default Slic3r configurations for ABS, PLA and T-Glase (pronounced “Tee Glass”). Head over to http://www.seemecnc.com/pages/downloads...
Page 243 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You'll need to change the Bed Size to 280 for both the X and Y fields. When you're done, click the little disk icon to save your changes. Next, click on the Filament Settings tab. We're going to tweak the stated figure for the filament diameter.
Page 244 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to slice the PEEK fan shroud, you'll need to load it into Repetier-Host first. Click the “Load” icon, browse to the location where you saved the STL file from the Repables link and select the file.
Page 245: Loading Filament
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Loading Filament It's extremely simple to load filament into the EZStruder. Just place your index finger on the top of the extruder and your thumb on the tension lever (marked by the arrow below). Press the tension lever down and feed the filament by hand along the path marked by the green arrow.
Page 246: Preparing The Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Continue to manually feed the filament until it passes through the other push-fit connector on the hot end. Now you'll need to heat the hot end in order to prime it with filament. Once the hot end reaches the target temperature, I want you to start using the manual Extrusion button to feed filament into the hot end.
Page 247: Printing The Peek Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Printing the PEEK Fan Shroud Now that you've gotten everything loaded and prepped, starting the print is as simple as clicking on the “Run Job” button. Fig. 23-11: Run Casper, Run! You'll notice right off that when you click the run icon, the printer will home itself and then begin heating the hot end and the heated bed.
Page 248: Installing The Peek Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-14: Completed PEEK fan shroud. Installing the PEEK Fan Shroud Before you can install the PEEK fan shroud, you're going to have to wait for the hot end to cool to room temperature. You don't want to burn yourself while installing the shroud.
Page 249 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-16: 'Front" view. Make sure that the fan is fully seated. It will need to fit between the hot end mount and the effector platform. Pop off the delta arms from one side and loosen the two hot end mounting screws as indicated in Fig.
Page 250 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Insert the PEEK fan shroud in the space between the hot end mount and effector platform as shown: Lift up the hot end mounting plate a bit and press the PEEK shroud into it's fully installed position.
Page 251 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-21: Done! The PEEK fan shroud is “virtually” linked to the hot end power. You should be able to see the fan running as soon as you hit the Heat Extruder button in Repetier-Host. Do that now to make sure the fan operates.
Page 252: Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 24 – Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud If you plan on printing in PLA or other materials that can benefit from a cooling fan (NOT ABS!), you'll want to print the layer fan shroud. The layer fan model can be downloaded from Repables, http://repables.com/r/212/.
Page 253 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 24-3: Problem areas... If you look at the photo above, you can see some print “artifacts” that were caused by printing too quickly and not allowing the ABS to cool. I would recommend that when the print job reaches the point where the horizontal yellow line is that you back off the speed to 30% and leave it for the rest of the print job.
Page 254 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now that you've gotten the fan shroud printed, go ahead and test fit it on the fan mounting tab on the extruder platform. Fig. 24-5: Test fitting. Fig. 24-6: Fitted in place. You may need to do a little trimming on the layer fan shroud in order to get it to fit properly on the effector platform's mounting tab.
Page 255 Start up Repetier-Host and power up your Rostock MAX v2 and connect to it. Right below the Print Bed controls on the right side of the Manual Control tab, you'll see a fan control: Move the slider to the right so the Output field reads 100% and then click the Fan button.
Page 256: Repetier-Host
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 25 – Repetier-Host Repetier-Host is a pretty advanced piece of software and it can make your life a lot easier when it comes to printing your projects on your Rostock MAX. I'm going to walk you through most of the more interesting things that Repetier-Host can do.
Page 257 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Object Placement tab allows you to do a number of things with one or more loaded objects. Moving right across from left to right, the functions are: Export This allows you to save all the currently loaded (or only the selected ones) parts as a single STL or OBJ file.
Page 258 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Copy Objects This is a neat little feature. Say you'd like to print four of the Ignite key chain tags. Select the Orion Key Fob and click the Remove Object button. Select the Ignite object and then click the Copy Objects button.
Page 259 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fix Normals This function will attempt to correct issues with your model file where there is a surface that should be facing outward, but is actually facing inward. This falls under an advanced modeling topic and won't be covered further here.
Page 260 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The last section on the Object Placement tab is “Cut Objects”. When you check the Cut Objects box, it will allow you to slice or cut the object in various ways by using the three sliders as shown above.
Page 261 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Slic3r allows you to manage multiple profiles for print settings, the printer itself and different types of filament. The Slic3r interface above allows easy access to any of those three preset categories. As time goes on, you'll collect a number of different configurations for the different models you print and the filaments used to print them.
Page 262 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The last tab I'm going to cover is the G-Code Editor tab. When you slice a model, the output of the slicer will be automatically loaded here. The G-Code Editor is basically just a fancy text editor. It allows you to view...
Page 263 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You can see an example of this below – it's currently showing layer 6 of the Ignite key fob that I've been using as my example part. The Help mode (accessed by clicking the “Help” tab next to “Visualization”) is a very handy feature when you'd like to see what all that noise in the G-Code Editor is actually doing.
Page 264 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide I've covered a number of the basics with Repetier-Host and you should have a pretty good handle on how to use it with your own printed parts. There's one last thing that I'd like to cover and that is the Temperature Curve tab.
Page 265 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The first thing that will happen is that the scale will jump considerably as it now needs to show your target temperature. In the figure to the right, you'll see that a new graph line has appeared.
Page 266: Appendix A: Quick Disconnects In Your Rostock Max V2
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Appendix A: Quick Disconnects in Your Rostock MAX v2 If you're reading this appendix, chances are pretty good that you want to use the quick disconnect connectors that I mentioned at the beginning of this assembly guide. Let's get to it, shall we? If you've never installed crimp pins before, I can't recommend this excellent tutorial over at Hansen Hobbies enough.
Page 267 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now loop the stepper motor wires and extension wires as shown and then join the connectors. I'm a bit of a wiring geek, so I tend to go to extremes when I'm cleaning things up. You can tape your wires down in the positions shown using Kapton tape.
Page 268: Wiring The Fans, Hot End, And Thermistor Connectors
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wiring the Fans, Hot End, and Thermistor Connectors First, we're going to mount the JST connectors to the PEEK and Layer fan leads (the two pair of 26ga wires). Fig. A-5: Hot end wires (knot not shown.) The pair of wires that you tied a knot in are going to be the PEEK fan wires.
Page 269 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. A-7:JST connector pin identification. Now you need to strip off about 3/16” of insulation from the four 18ga wires coming out of the hot end loom. Crimp on a female crimp pin to each one and insert them into the four pin, locking polarized connector.
Page 270: Installing Connectors On The Thermistor And Heating Resistors
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing Connectors on the Thermistor and Heating Resistors The first thing we'll need to do is get some wire to use for this task. There should be a lot of extra 18ga wire – pull all four wires forward (along with the two 26ga wire pairs) through the front of the machine if you haven't done so already.
Page 271 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Trim the bent leads such that they only occupy half the crimp connector. Install two 22-18ga uninsulated barrel crimp connectors as shown in Fig. A-14. Fig. A-14: Step #4. Strip off 3/8” of insulation from the 3-1/2” long 18ga black & red wires you collected earlier and crimp them into the connectors as shown.
Page 272 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Carefully solder the white wire to one thermistor lead and the green wire to the other. You may notice that the thermistor wires shown are different than the ones you're working with. This is okay and was a change made after the photographs were originally taken.
Page 273 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Bend the black wire “up” as you did with the red one and carefully line up the thermistor wires next to the black lead as shown to the left Bind the thermistor leads to the black wire with Kapton tape as shown in Fig.
Page 274: Attaching The Hot End To The Hot End Mounting Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attaching the Hot End to the Hot End Mounting Plate For this step, you'll need the hot end mounting plate and the hot end mounting plate spacer. Fig. A-25:Hot End Mounting Fig. A-26:Hot End Mounting Plate.
Page 275 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide To ensure that the normal operation of the printer doesn't damage the hot end wiring, I want you to use a wire tie to bind the power & thermistor wires to the hot end mounting plate as shown below.
Page 276: Installing The Bowden Tube
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Bowden Tube For this task you'll need the long PTFE Bowden tube that was included in the Hot End Pack. The mesh in the hot end wiring loom will open up when you compress it. Grip the mesh about 2”...
Page 277: Appendix B: Maintenance And Troubleshooting
1. Check the condition of your drive belts to insure they’re not getting worn out or rubbing on any of the Rostock MAX v2 structure. Check to make sure that a print too close to the bed hasn’t caused the drive gear to chew up the belt in one spot. This would be a good item to add to your start-up checklist.
Page 278: Print Layer Issues
The problem with troubleshooting is sometimes trouble shoots back. :) Your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is a pretty complex piece of machinery even though it looks pretty simple. As with any complex device sometimes things can go wrong in really weird ways. This won’t be a comprehensive troubleshooting guide, but will touch on a few of the problems I’ve run into...
Page 279 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. B-2: First print layer examples. (Image Courtesy of LulzBot) In the figure above, you’ll see five different print examples. On the far left you see the result of the nozzle being too close to the print bed, while at the far right you see the result of the nozzle being too far away.
Page 280: Machine Won't Move
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Machine Won't Move! You’ve sent G28 and the machine still won’t move using the jog arrows. Take a look at the log output. You may be seeing an error go by that looks like this: Extruder switched off.
Page 281 If you've got a tight u-joint even after applying a TINY amount of lithium grease or dry lubricant to it, you may have an axel problem. Contact SeeMeCNC support for further direction.

SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Manual

1 Required and Optional Tools and Materials

2 Visual Bill of Materials

3 Prepping the Hot End and Power Supply

4 Building the Base

6 Installing the Towers & Tower Wiring

7 Assembling the Top Section

8 Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages

9 Installing the Top Plate and Idler Bearings

10 Wiring the End Stop Switches

11 Installing the Drive Belts

12 Assembling the Ezstruder and Filament Holder

13 Wiring & Assembling the Hot End, Bowden Tube

14 Installing the Effector and Delta Arms

15 Installing the Hot End

16 Finishing the Top End

17 Assembling & Installing the LCD Panel Mount

18 Installing & Connecting the Rambo Controller

19 Final Assembly Tasks

20 Driver and Software Installation

21 Installing Repetier-Host and Calibrating the Printer

22 Tonkabot's Missing Chapter

23 First Print: PEEK Fan Shroud

24 Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud

25 Repetier-Host

Appendix A: Quick Disconnects in Your Rostock MAX V2

Appendix B: Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Quick Links

Need help?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2

Summary of Contents for SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2

Table of Contents