In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
1 oz. Thick Pro ™ CA– (GPMR6014) When finished, the SlowPoke is quite capable of slow, Pro CA Accelerator (GPMR6035) leisurely flight without the worry. Its styling is reminiscent of 6-Minute Pro ™...
Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698) medium, fine grit) Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer ™ (TOPQ5700) Great Planes Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) Building Notes Made of durable, lightweight aluminum, Easy-Touch ™ There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sanders have a uniquely contoured handle that lets you...
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES You may remove the stabilizer and elevator drawing from the plan by cutting along the dashed line. Don’t forget to cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector ™ so the glue won’t stick to the plan.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 to build the second elevator half. 3. From a 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick, fit and glue the center fin brace in postion. 6. Pin one elevator half in place on the plan, making sure the elevator is right side up.
Finish the Tail Surfaces We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with the 1. Shape the leading edge of the elevator and rudder to introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine ™ . This a “V” as shown on the plan.
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4. Lay the wing plan on the building board. Hint: You may cut the wing plan section from the plan. Don’t forget to cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector. 5. Cut the two 1/4" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sticks to 21-3/16"...
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18. From a 1/16" x 3" x 24" sheet, cut a 10-7/16" long LE sheet. Position the LE sheet, aligning the rear of the LE sheet with the center of the forward auxiliary spar and glue it in place. 14. Sand the top of the sub leading edge to the shape of the ribs.
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23. Use a 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick as your trailing edge jig. Pin it to the plan, over the aft auxiliary spar. Position the B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the two sheets wing upside down over the plan, with the auxiliary spar aligned together joining the trimmed edges.
with the center of the forward auxiliary spar as you did with Build the Outer Wing Panels the top sheeting. Press the sheet firmly against the landing gear rails so that the chalk will mark the location of the landing gear rails on the sheeting. Note: Be careful to hold 1.
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8. Glue one main spar doubler onto each main spar, aligning one end of the doubler with the end of the main spar. Note: From here forward, this combination will be 13. Position the 1/16" die-cut balsa T3 rib on the plan, known as a spar.
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16. Insert the front and middle auxiliary spars into the 25. Trim and sand the top LE sheeting flush with the tops of the ribs, aligning the outboard ends flush with the sub leading edge. Trim and sand the spars and sheeting outboard edge of T4.
Finish the Wing 1. From a 1/8" x 18" dowel, cut four 4" long wing joiners. 6. From a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut a 10-3/8" long leading edge for the right half of the center section. Glue it to the sub leading edge and LE sheeting.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE Assemble the Fuse Formers & Sides 1. Cover the fuse side view with Great Planes Plan Protector. 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa pushrod exit plate in place. 7. From a 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick, fit and glue the four fuse braces in place.
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12. Position and pin the die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray on the plan. 13. Glue the fuse top in place against the servo tray. 17. Pull the fuse sides against the fuse top, fitting the die- cut 1/8" balsa formers F3 and F5 as you go. Note: The embossed labels on F3 and F5 face the front of the plane and are upside down on the work surface at this time.
the TE of the wing tip and put a piece of masking tape on the string near the wing tip. Mark an arrow on the tape, then slide the tape on the string so the arrow aligns with the wing tip.
6. Mark the engine mount holes with a pencil lead or a T-pin. Remove the engine from the mount and drill four 9/64" holes at your marks. Hint: For greater accuracy use the Great Planes Dead Center ™ Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMP8130) to mark the locations of the bolt holes.
9. Remove the engine from the engine mount. 14. Using a piece of 1/8" x 3" x 12" balsa, sheet the front 10. Place the fuselage, inverted, onto the building surface. Position and glue the engine mount flush with F1. bottom from F2 up to and overlapping the engine mount.
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2. Determine the location of the pushrod exit holes from the plan. Use a hobby knife to sharpen one end of a piece of 3/16" (outer diameter) brass tubing, then use this tubing to cut the pushrod exit holes (you may use a 3/16" drill bit, but the brass tube makes a much neater cut).
5. Using the full-size template on the plan, make the Build the Front Deck & Turtle Deck turtle deck top from a 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 18" balsa sheet. 1. Align the tabs on the bottom of the die-cut 3/32" balsa F4 6.
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10. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa former F2A in place 4" 16. Sand the front deck sheeting flush with the top of the behind F1A. front deck stringers. 11. Cut the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick in half, making two front deck stringers.
6. Mount the engine. Slide the throttle cable through the Wow! Step back and take a good look. Pat yourself on the guide tube you installed in step 2. Attach the clevis to the back! You are completely finished framing your SlowPoke! throttle arm on the carb. Nice work.
PREPARE FOR COVERING 1. Remove all the pushrods and remove the hinges and control horns from the elevators and rudder. Remove the engine and any other hardware you may have installed. 2. Most of the model should be rough-sanded by now, Reference this photo for the next 5 steps.
INSTALL THE TANK 1. Assemble your Great Planes 4 oz. fuel tank (not included). Attach a 6" piece of fuel tubing to the top nipple, which will attach to the muffler pressure tap. Assemble and install the tank cap. Attach a second piece of 6" fuel tubing to the main nipple in the center of the tank cap, which will 2.
SlowPoke flies best. Please set up your model to the 3. Wrap the receiver in 1/4" (or thicker) foam. Wrap the specifications listed above. If, after you become battery in 1/4"...
After initial trim flights and when you become more acquainted with your SlowPoke, you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 5/16" forward or back to change the flying characteristics.
If a club and flying site are not available, find a large, grassy Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the area at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings and propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. streets and any other R/C radio operation like R/C boats and R/C cars.
When you initially advance the throttle and the is what gets most fliers in trouble rather than lack of tail begins to lift, the SlowPoke will begin to turn to the left flying skill. (due to the torque of the engine–a characteristic of all...
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