Chevrolet Impala SS Handbook
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Chevrolet Impala SS Handbook

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impala SS
Handbook
Original by Karl Frost "QaloSS"
Updated version by Ash Carlton "whteglve"
with help from many others.
In conjunction with,
www.impalassforum.com

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  • Page 1 SS Handbook Original by Karl Frost "QaloSS" Updated version by Ash Carlton "whteglve" with help from many others. In conjunction with, www.impalassforum.com...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Introduction..............................4 Maintenance..............................5 Brakes................................6 Stealth Brake Bolt and Metering Bolt Mod....................6 Chassis / Suspension............................ 9 Body Bushings, Lower..........................9 Body Bushings, Upper..........................12 Buick Brace............................. 12 Coil Spring Replacement, Front......................12 Coil Spring Replacement, Rear....................... 13 Rear Control Arm Replacement......................14 Rear Control Arm Replacement, Lower....................14 Rear Control Arm Replacement, Upper....................
  • Page 3 Bow Tie Install............................77 Throttle Body Bypass..........................78 Electrical..............................80 Antenna Switch............................80 Pass Key Fault Disable..........................81 Radio Wiring Chart..........................83 Tachometer.............................. 83 Tail Light, Add Center Brake Light......................85 Tail Light, Lens Bucket Modification ....................89 Tail Light, Light Bulbs..........................90 Exhaust...............................

  • Page 4: Introduction

    Monday morning and said, “I found your new car”. That Friday, December 3, 2000 a friend and I drove two hours away to where I met and test-drove “Elaine”, a black 1996 Impala SS. I purchased her on December 6, 2000.

  • Page 5: Maintenance

    Maintenance...

  • Page 6: Brakes

    In a 4-wheel disc car - like the Impala SS and Caprice 9C1 - this delay is unnecessary and hurts the reaction speed of your brakes, ultimately resulting in longer stopping distances. In a hard stop, the front brakes will not engage at the same time as the rear brakes.
  • Page 7 Maintenance: Braking and the spring and red aluminum plunger are discarded. It's that simple - after that is done, your brakes are now proportioned at approximately 65% front and 35% rear The Metering problem (problem #2 above) is solved by replacing the 19mm hex bolt on the rear of the combination-valve with a different bolt, commonly referred to as the "Bolt II"...
  • Page 8 Maintenance: Braking "Bolt II" Metering Bolt Instructions Tools: Stealth Bolt (left) and Metering Bolt (right) Procedure: 1. Place paper towels inside plastic bags. Place plastic bags underneath back of combination-valve to catch brake fluid. 2. Use the adjustable wrench to hold the combination-valve body. Loosen the stock bolt (located at the rear of the combination-valve) with the ratchet.

  • Page 9: Chassis / Suspension

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Chassis / Suspension Body Bushings, Lower Scott Mueller’s website is referenced at http://www.theherd.com/articles/bushings.html for most of this information. Read his site for more information on the reason why this mod is needed. We’ve all heard about this modification many times.
  • Page 10 Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension › When installing the bushings, the cupped end goes against the frame. Each bushing has a washer inside it on the flat end. The bolt head should go against it. › Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs as Scott suggests rather than the factory 50 ft/lbs.
  • Page 11 Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Body bushing locations. SSHandbook...

  • Page 12: Body Bushings, Upper

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Body Bushings, Upper The Upper bushings are a different story. You will need to lift the body from the frame for those. Here is an example of a busted upper bushing. New vs. Old Upper Bushings Busted Upper Bushing Buick Brace This brace comes on a Buick Roadmasters but...

  • Page 13: Coil Spring Replacement, Rear

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Procedure: 1. Jack up the corner you’re working on and place it on jack stands by the frame, you’ll need the jack for the spring install. 2. Remove the shock. See Shock Replacement. 3. Remove the wheel and disconnect the lower part of the spindle and sway bar end links. 4.

  • Page 14: Rear Control Arm Replacement

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Rear Control Arm Replacement Tools: • Jack and jack stands • Sockets and Ratchet • Wrenches Well, the lowers are very simple and the uppers are easy to remove as well, but the main thing you need to be concerned with is the alignment of the axle.

  • Page 15: Rear Control Arm Replacement, Upper

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Rear Control Arm Replacement, Upper Procedure: 1. The uppers are the same way but the bolts connecting the arms to the body are difficult to get to and are large, maybe 21 or 22mm. You’ll need a socket in that size as well as a wrench to hold the nut.

  • Page 16: Shock Replacement

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension After you remove the control arms, lower the rear end and frame to work on it, do the following: Procedure: 1. With the rear end as low as possible, put a block of wood (or similar) on both sides of the rear end to stabilize it.

  • Page 17: Sway Bar Replacement, Front

    Maintenance: Chassis / Suspension Procedure, Rear: 1. Raise the vehicle by the axle and place jack stands under the frame. 2. Leave the jack in place, lower the axle until it is at rest, and then raise it back up just a hair. 3.

  • Page 18: Cooling System

    Maintenance: Cooling System Cooling System Bleeding The System Tools: Park your car where the rear is lower than the front if possible or even jack up the front end. The point is to get the bleed valve higher than the heater core. Let the engine cool preferably overnight.

  • Page 19: Heater Core Flush

    Maintenance: Cooling System 5. Put bottom hose back on and remove the top hose near the air box. 6. Start car and let it push the remainder of the coolant out of the system. Using a hose run water into the overfill container.

  • Page 20: Temperature Sensor Replacement

    Maintenance: Cooling System Temperature SSensor Replacement Tools: There are two different sensors. There is one on the water pump which sends readings to the PCM, and there is one in the passenger’s side manifold that sends reading to you gauge on the dash. Both sensors can be unscrewed with a crescent wrench but it is recommended that you use a deep socket.
  • Page 21 Maintenance: Cooling System 4. Slowly pull off the hose. It may be stuck on it but a good twist will loosen it. When the hose gets loose, stick the end in the bucket or rags whichever you have handy. Stuffing a rag in the end of the hose will prevent coolant from dripping out.
  • Page 22 Maintenance: Cooling System 6 Remove the thermostat housing (on top of the waterpump) and thermostat. Put these in the new waterpump. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS. The FSM says 20lbs of torque, this is incorrect, it should be 8lbs. If you start leaking from here after all is said and done you can tighten them down a bit more but DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS ON THE WATERPUMP.

  • Page 23: Electrical

    Maintenance: Electrical Electrical Headlight Instrument Panel Illumination If the light goes out in your Headlight Instrument Panel, you have a choice to make. You can do it the easy way by buying a Honda bulb, changing the bulb itself, or the hard way paying for a completely new panel.

  • Page 24: Opti-Spark Installation

    Maintenance: Electrical Opti-Spark Installation › When replacing the opti-spark, add the weep hole fitting. Procedure: 1. First, disconnect your battery. 2. Drain your coolant. Be sure to open the bleed screws. This will help it drain much quicker. 3. Remove the rubber intake elbow. 4.

  • Page 25: Opti-Spark Conversion

    Maintenance: Electrical 15. If there is any gap on any of the three mounting screws, you probably haven't lined the Opti-spark up correctly with the spline on the shaft. It should slide all the way on with no gaps on any of the mounting areas.
  • Page 26 Maintenance: Electrical Buy an older style Opti-spark (the one you're supposed to buy), and simply change the cap Of course, you will need to do a few additional things. Parts: Tools: Recommended: Procedure: 1. Remove your cap from your new Opti-spark. Nothing like taking apart something brand new eh? 2.

  • Page 27: Plug And Wire Change

    Maintenance: Electrical Plug and Wire Change Tools: Materials: Initial Procedure: SSHandbook...

  • Page 28: Changing Plugs, Stock Manifolds

    Maintenance: Electrical Changing Plugs, Stock Manifolds Plug Procedure: 1. ALL EIGHT plugs are accessible thru the wheel wells. No one believes this until they try this, then they won't do it any other way 2. Starting on the driver's side, working back (plug 1), simply unplug the plug wires and use the 3/8" ratchet, a couple of the long extensions, and the u-joint plug socket to remove and replace the first plug.

  • Page 29: Changing Plugs, Headers

    Maintenance: Electrical Changing Plugs, Headers Plug Procedure: › Note that this procedure is based on Clear Image Automotive Tri-Y Headers, so the info will be somewhat specific to them but, will apply to other headers 1. For plugs 1 and 3, it is easiest to just do them from up above. These plugs are possibly EASIER with headers than with stock manifolds 2.
  • Page 30 Maintenance: Electrical Plugs and wires changed on Tri-Y's. Changing Plug Wires Procedure: 1. Before starting, note which wire loom is on which wire, and also note the order of the wires into the opti- spark. If you forget, the plug wire numbers ARE embossed on the opti-spark, next to the wire connection points.
  • Page 31 Maintenance: Electrical 9. For the rest of the driver's side plugs, I found it easiest to just remove the entire metal bracket that holds the wires (little holders, plus holds the #7 wire tight against the block) against the engine block. It is held on by two 10mm (I think) bolts, and at least with my car with the headers I could get to both bolts thru the wheel well with some socket extensions and u-joint.
  • Page 32 Maintenance: Electrical SURE that things are right, go ahead and snap shut the 2-wire holder. 27. Put a piece of loom on each of the #8 and #6 wires forward of the 2-wire holder (i.e. on the parts of #8 and #6 wires that are running below the #4 and 2 plugs).

  • Page 33: Power Antenna Replacement

    Maintenance: Electrical Power Antenna Replacement Looking at the project at hand, you’ll notice the antenna mast partially protruding from the fender. The mast got bent, and it would only go partially up and down. Bad power antenna mast. Looking at the project at hand, you’ll notice the antenna mast partially protruding from the fender. The mast may have gotten bent, or it will only go partially up and down.
  • Page 34 Maintenance: Electrical 4. Next remove the fender well bolts. There are five 10 mm bolts along the edge of the wheel well. One of five 10 mm bolts. 5. Now remove the three 13 mm bolts inset into the wheel well. One of three 13 mm bolts.
  • Page 35 Maintenance: Electrical 7. Now open the hood and unplug the power and antenna connectors. It’s a good idea to tape the antenna to the brace so it doesn’t try to fall. Use #732 for duct tape. 8. Remove the top nut and bezel from the antenna. Some people use needle nose pliers and position the tips into the slots on the nut.
  • Page 36 Maintenance: Electrical 10. Prop the inner fender well open with the block of wood so you’ll have some clearance. A good idea would be to tape the fender so you don’t scratch the paint while working. Using a block of wood to give a little room to work. 11.

  • Page 37: Rebuilding A Power Antenna

    Maintenance: Electrical Rebuilding A Power Antenna Source: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/169176-how-rebuild-power-antenna.html Much thanks to "N*Caddy" from Toronto, Canada for this guide In the last week I had problems with my power antenna (or power mast). At some point refused to retract. Please be aware; if your power antenna is stuck immediately disconnect the power harness from the relay mounted on the antenna.
  • Page 38 Maintenance: Electrical Power antenna parts. Here you can see the screw, clips and rivets holding the two halves of the motor assembly together. If the antenna was never serviced, from factory comes with rivets. You will need to drill the rivets out and replace with screws.
  • Page 39 Maintenance: Electrical Should you do exploratory surgery first, to prevent the wire from coming loose from the gear, leave attached the plastic piece shown removed below. Drill the rivets, pop the 3 clips and unscrew the one T10 screw not holding the previously mentioned plastic piece.
  • Page 40 Maintenance: Electrical SSHandbook...
  • Page 41 Maintenance: Electrical Here is the stator. The stator can be reused (just slide-it in place over the rotor). Note on one side the stator has a small round rubber glued, that side should be on the bottom. To slide the rotor in place squeeze the two locking switch actuators and lower shaft.
  • Page 42 Maintenance: Electrical Notice the notch called stopper, that notch can not be in the RED area. Can be positioned in ANY position around that green circle but better orient the wheel in the exact position as shown with minimum nylon wire on the wheel (notice the hook that is the end of the nylon wire, less than ¼...

  • Page 43: Reprogramming Key Fobs

    Maintenance: Electrical Reprogramming Key Fobs Procedure: 1. Reposition rear compartment trim to access the programming connector located at the left of the rear compartment (trunk), for sedans. It should be a two pin connector hanging there going to nothing. 2. WAGON: Remove right back body pillar finish panel to access programming connector. THIS IS THE WAGONS PIN LOCATION SKIP THIS IF YOU DONT HAVE A WAGON.
  • Page 44 Maintenance: Electrical 4. Press any key on either transmitter. › This step programs that particular transmitter to the receiver. The system will verify by performing the same lock/unlock, lock/unlock cycle. 5. The automatic door locking/unlocking function is automatically enabled for this transmitter. To leave it enabled, skip to step 6.

  • Page 45: Exhaust

    Maintenance: Exhaust Exhaust AIR Pump Disable GM TSB for Air Pump Disable - http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm Technical - Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) #01-06-04-011 Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) Condition: Cause:...
  • Page 46 Maintenance: Exhaust 1. Locate the relay center (1) and air cleaner box (2). 2. Remove the AIR hose and clamp (1) from the air cleaner box. 3. Insert the plug (2) into the air cleaner box AIR hose inlet (3). 4.
  • Page 47 Maintenance: Exhaust 5. Remove the cover (1) from the relay center (3). 6. Remove AIR pump relay (2) from the relay center (3). 7. Install the relay cover (1). 8. Install new emission label to radiator support (3). 9. Update vehicle calibration. (1995 4.3 L L99 Caprice, and 1996 vehicles) Parts Information Part Number...

  • Page 48: Egr Valve Replacement

    Maintenance: Exhaust Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Calibration Information The Calibrations are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations will be available from Techline starting February 2001, on the TIS 2000 version TIS 2.0/2001 data update or later. Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: Labor Operation Description...
  • Page 49 Maintenance: Exhaust Procedure: 1. The valve and solenoid are located on the back of the engine on the driver’s side. 2. It is held on by two bolts and connecting by hoses to the solenoid. The solenoid is connected by bracket to the engine that is secured a bolt.

  • Page 50: Fuel System

    Maintenance: Fuel System Fuel System Fuel Filter Change The fuel filter needs to be changed every 15-20,000 miles under extreme driving conditions. › Be sure to use either a LED work light or an explosion proof light. You don't want fuel to get on the bulb and possibly cause it to shatter.
  • Page 51 Maintenance: Fuel System 2. These are the tank strap mount bolts; they are 13mm and a pain to get back in place. Loosen and remove the nut, but leave the bolts in place for now. Take the cross strap nut off and push the tank strap out of the way.
  • Page 52 Maintenance: Fuel System 5. Now get under the car and disconnect the retainer for the fuel supply/return and evaporation lines. It’s directly above the rear end. Evaporation lines. 6. To fully remove the tank and then remove the fuel sender assembly. You will need to have a fuel line disconnect tool for this.
  • Page 53 Maintenance: Fuel System 8. Now you're ready to drop the tank and pull it out so you can work on it. Don’t forget to disconnect the wiring harness from the retainers on the body. Once the tank is out you should clean the area above it before removing the retaining ring for the fuel pump and sender assembly.

  • Page 54: Repairing The Fuel Ssender

    Maintenance: Fuel System Repairing the Fuel SSender Tools: Materials: Follow the procedures under “Fuel Pump Removal” but stop before removing the fuel pump from the tank. Before you remove the fuel sender assembly and before you do anything else, remove all the rust off the outside portion of your sending unit and paint it.
  • Page 55 Maintenance: Fuel System Look how heat-damaged the fuel pump wires were. See the insulation melted back? These got a little hot Procedure 1. Take the sending unit apart using a Torx bit. Under the cap is a spring, which may jump out if you aren’t careful.
  • Page 56 Maintenance: Fuel System 3. Start cleaning every contact but be delicate on the wiper. Using an eraser is a good idea. Just be firm enough to clean off the corrosion yet not bend or break the wiper. A clean wiper conducts current better and produces more accurate readings at the gauge.
  • Page 57 Maintenance: Fuel System 6. Clean where the spring mounts to the assembly. The spring is sandwiched between the assembly and the resistor cap. Spring mount. 7. Clean the corresponding resistor area with a pencil eraser. Be VERY gentle with the resistor. The wire isn't real strong so take your time.
  • Page 58 Maintenance: Fuel System 9. Once everything is clean, put it back together and check “EMPTY” with your ohmmeter. If yours is still reading more than zero ohms, it needs help. It may do this because the wiper never gets close enough to the spring to have no resistance in the circuit path.
  • Page 59 Maintenance: Fuel System 12. Now, begin bolting everything back together. Here's the finished product. 13. The next step is to install the new harness. Here are some more tricks. › DO NOT install the plastic connector bodies. Just solder them directly to the top of the bulkhead like this picture.

  • Page 60: New Sending Unit

    Maintenance: Fuel System 14. Okay the moment of truth. Check at the sender itself. Empty should read 0 Ohms, this one looks good Next you need to check the harness, which should read what the sender itself measured. Checking the harness. 15.
  • Page 61 Maintenance: Fuel System A nice side shot. A view of the wiper. SSHandbook...

  • Page 62: General Maintenance

    Maintenance: General Maintenance General Maintenance Air Filter Replacement The air filter is located on the driver side of the engine compartment. Remove the two screws holding the air box lid in place and pull up, push down on the backside, and out to lift the lid. Pull out the filter and reinstall a new one.
  • Page 63 Maintenance: General Maintenance Procedure: 1. Remove the 2 screws that hold the armrest to the door, then gently lift the back of the armrest up a small amount and pull out and remove it. Armrest screws 2. Remove the screw in the center of the door handle pocket (Behind the door handle).
  • Page 64 Maintenance: General Maintenance 4. Remove the Phillips screw in the door panel at the bottom of the back end of the door panel. Lower door panel screw. 5. Using a good door panel plug tool, locate the door panel plugs. The gently pull out in an area close to rear of the door panel, and pop out the 1st door panel plug with the tool.
  • Page 65 Maintenance: General Maintenance 6. Now gently remove the plastic door paper from the inner door and set it aside. Remove the window switch from the door panel itself, then temp hook the switch back up to the wire harness connector. Key in the “On”...
  • Page 66 Maintenance: General Maintenance 8. Once the two rivets have been drilled out of the track, get a roll of the "Blue Painters Tape" and by hand, lift the window up from the inside and outside of the door until it reaches the top, then tape the top of the window to the door frame to hold it up.
  • Page 67 Maintenance: General Maintenance 11. Repeat the process on the Front ball stud. This one is a bit harder, but can be accessed by "Carefully" lifting the regulator arm with the window switch toward the top of the door until you align the access hole in the picture below.
  • Page 68 Maintenance: General Maintenance 13. Now insert your slider track back into the rear hole in the door, insert the rear round slider into the track, then guide the track thru the door and onto the front slider. If needed, the track can be rotated to get both sliders onto it, but if you opened both crimped ends of the track, you won’t have to do this.
  • Page 69 Maintenance: General Maintenance 16. The rivets are kind of tough to get installed in the track, but you can get a hand riveter in both places in the door but you have to "slowly" adjust the window Up/Down to get the position just right to do it.

  • Page 70: Differential Oil Change

    Maintenance: General Maintenance 21. Get the door panel close to the door and then hook the electrical connector to the window switch back onto the switch. Carefully lift and tilt the top of the door pad window seal into the top door track, then install the pad back into the track, paying close attention that the door panel is fitted down in both ends of the door.

  • Page 71: Door Panel Removal

    Maintenance: General Maintenance Using the Fill hole Technique: Materials: Procedure: 1. Lift the car up on jack stands and chock the front wheels 2. Remove the fill hole cover and insert the siphon tube and remove all the old fluid. 3.

  • Page 72: Oil Change

    Maintenance: General Maintenance › For the small screws in the armrest, they tend to break through the gray vinyl. I used some stainless steel screws with a wide stainless finishing washer. It made a nice touch › The lock mechanism, be sure that it is aligned, locks and unlocks when you put it back on *The rear doors are essentially the same except you do not have power window switches except for one.

  • Page 73: Oxygen Sensor Replacement

    Maintenance: General Maintenance Oxygen Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor replacement is recommended around every 100,000 miles. Although it is okay to change them whenever you want and they may go bad anyway. They will cause bad gas mileage, sluggish performance and build up due to reading the wrong fuel/air mixture. You cannot “rejuvenate” an O2 sensor or “clean”...

  • Page 74: Transmission Fluid Change

    Maintenance: General Maintenance Transmission Fluid Change This is a fluid many people don’t remember to change. Rule of thumb is replacing fluid and filter around every 30,000 miles as per Shane Cobb “Dustman.” at Carolina Performance Transmission. Check the fluid while the car is running and at normal operating temperature. Make sure the fluid is pink/red and does not smell burnt.
  • Page 75 Modifications: Basic Mods down gently. Now insert the new filter into the same hole. 9. Placing the gasket on can be a pain because it likes to move around and probably is deformed from being in the box. Some people use little stems that hold it in place by the bolt holes or it will stay in place if you use a sealant.

  • Page 76: Modificationss

    ModificationSS...

  • Page 77: Basic Modifications

    Modifications: Basic Mods Basic Modifications Bow Tie Install Many people do not like the standard silver bow tie on the SS grill so many have chosen to go with a red one. You can buy the red bowtie a few websites or even form the dealer. Part numbers can be found in the part number section.

  • Page 78: Throttle Body Bypass

    Modifications: Basic Mods Throttle Body Bypass Here is the way most people suggest doing the Throttle-Body Bypass on a 94+ B-body LT1 & L99.(Instructions might be a little different on a '94, and the process might work on F-body and Corvette LT1) Tools: Materials: Now would be a good time to put in a...
  • Page 79 Modifications: Basic Mods no longer be coolant in it, so you should not have any problems. 3. Using the door panel remover, disconnect the rubber elbow (blue) from the throttle-body. 4. Get the two pairs of pliers. Use one to rotate the rubber hose (blue) and the other to rotate the clamp until you can see the ends of the spring clips holding the tube on the long metal pipe (green) that runs from the rear of the engine to the front between the valve cover and the intake manifold.

  • Page 80: Electrical

    Modifications: Electrical Electrical Antenna Switch This is a good idea if you still have the stock radio and you want to lower the antenna while listening to CD’s. You can put the switch in almost in location. Some people have mounted them in the coin holder, in the ashtray, or anywhere else, you can imagine.

  • Page 81: Pass Key Fault Disable

    Modifications: Electrical Pass Key Fault Disable Materials: Procedure: 1. Use a voltmeter to read the ohmage of the chip in your key. Do this by placing one lead on one side and the other lead on other side of the chip. 2.
  • Page 82 Modifications: Electrical Notes: › By chance, the car cranks but the LED stays on. It is because your ohms are slightly off. In other words, it is sensing that your key chip is losing its luster and that you need a new one but it’s going to crank anyways.

  • Page 83: Radio Wiring Chart

    Modifications: Electrical Radio Wiring Chart Metra 71-1858, wiring harness side. (Receptacle) Metra 70-1858, radio harness side. (Plug) 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 19 18 17 - - 17 18 19 20 Harness side pin out.
  • Page 84 Modifications: Electrical Procedure: 1. Remove the black bezel surrounding the instrument cluster by removing the two bolts at the top of it and pulling it back away from the dash. There are three clips at the bottom in the back and two guide posts. Be careful with the rubber ring that goes around the steering column as it is held on by some flimsy plastic rivets and cannot be reattached easily.

  • Page 85: Tail Light, Add Center Brake Light

    Modifications: Electrical Tail Light, Add Center Brake Light Tools: Parts: There are TWO basic ways to install the socket templates to fix the "focus" problem upon modification of the center parking light to a standard dual filament brake/turn signal light. One is quick and partially successful and one more time consuming and by far the best solution.
  • Page 86 Modifications: Electrical Best Procedure: 1. After removing the red lens filter and sticky adhesive, turn the bucket facing up and note that the center bucket area has a distinct line at the "transition" to the raised center section. Use this line as a guide while cutting out the indented portion.
  • Page 87 Modifications: Electrical 7. Take the Dremel and using a medium grade sanding barrel and lightly sand the inside to very edge of the transition line to get a smooth surface around the inside. Clean up all sanding dust and use rubbing alcohol to wipe it down.
  • Page 88 Modifications: Electrical 13. If you do not plan on installing reflective film(s), you will need to cover the inside area of the bucket in reflective type aluminum spray paint to cover the black adhesive. Once two or three "light coats" are sprayed over the inside, it will look and reflect light like the other two associated bulb reflectors sections.

  • Page 89: Tail Light, Lens Bucket Modification

    Modifications: Electrical Tail Light, Lens Bucket Modification A viable way to squeeze more light power out of the rear light system is to improve the reflective and focus properties of the lens reflector assembly (buckets). The red plastic lens can be separated from the bucket assembly by removing the red lens.

  • Page 90: Tail Light, Light Bulbs

    Modifications: Electrical Tail Light, Light Bulbs Light Measurements? Watts are not light. Watts are used to measure electrical power and in lighting systems is used in conjunction with a term called Efficacy. Efficacy = Lumens/Watts for a ratio of light output to electrical power input.
  • Page 91 Modifications: Electrical Approximate average CP upgrade in performance [Stock reflector bucket] 1 Brake filament from 2057 to #3496 is 30% 2 Parking filament from 2057 to #3496 is 50% [Modified reflector bucket] 1 Brake filament using #3496 is 'additional' 34% with most improvement in center lamp bucket output. 2 Park filament using #3496 is 'additional' 20% with most improvements in center lamp bucket output.

  • Page 92: Exhaust

    Modifications: Exhaust Exhaust Exhaust Science Demystified The fact is most cars are leaving horsepower on the table. We show you how to get it back. From the February, 2009 issue of Super Chevy Photography by Various Manufacturers All contributors: David Vizard For me the first really serious look at how to muffle a high performance race engine without losing a significant amount of power started in 1980 when I built a 4001b-ft, 404hp 350 to replace the very lame 158hp 305 in my California-spec Pontiac Trans Am.
  • Page 93 Modifications: Exhaust scavenge the combustion chamber during the exhaust/intake valve overlap period (angle 5 in Fig. 2). To understand the extent to which this can increase an engine's ability to breathe, let's consider the cylinder and chamber volumes of a typical high-performance 350 cubic-inch V-8.
  • Page 94 Modifications: Exhaust exhaust valve at and around TDC. Because this occurs during the overlap period, as much as 4-5 psi of this partial vacuum is communicated via the open intake valve to the intake port. Given these numbers you can see the exhaust system draws on the intake port as much as 500 percent harder than the piston going down the bore.
  • Page 95 Modifications: Exhaust applications, where mileage and performance when the nitrous is not in use is the most important, pipe size should not be changed to suit the nitrous. Headers -- Primary Pipe Lengths Misconceptions concerning exhaust pipe lengths are widespread. Take for instance the much-overworked phrase "equal-length headers."...
  • Page 96 Modifications: Exhaust Except for the most highly developed engines, many collectors I see at the track are too large in diameter and either too short, or of excessive length. For a motor peaking at around 6,000-8,500 rpm, a collector length of 10-20 inches is effective.
  • Page 97 Modifications: Exhaust size because engines are flow sensitive, not size sensitive. This being so, why should the same not apply to the selection of mufflers? The answer (and here I'd like muffler manufactures to please note) is that it should, as the engine's output is influenced minimally by size but dramatically by flow capability.
  • Page 98 Modifications: Exhaust very important part of building a high -performance system and we will look at these shortly to see the role they play. For now, let us look at some flow- oriented test results. In Fig. 7 you will see the results of tests run on a number of engines of various types.
  • Page 99 Modifications: Exhaust having varying degrees of access ease by the exhaust. Others are of the "glass pack" variety. These types represent opposite ends of a spectrum and have a substantially differing response to arriving pressure waves. When we dealt with collector length it was emphasized that it was, in most cases, more critical than the primary pipe lengths.
  • Page 100 Modifications: Exhaust provides this cross-sectional change. The tail pipe length exiting most glass pack installations is also of little consequence if a resonator box is used, but is of significant influence if not. Virtually all V-8 exhaust systems can be refined by the addition of a balance or X-pipe. These have two potential attributes: increased power and reduced noise.
  • Page 101 Modifications: Exhaust SOME HEAVY-DUTY QUOTES FROM ENGINE MASTERS WINNERS John Kaase: "I used a straight-through glass pack muffler design specifically because of the high-flow they can deliver. My dyno testing left no doubt as to how important collector length was and that a straight- through glass pack contributes to that length.

  • Page 102: Intake Alternatives

    Modifications: Intake Alternatives Intake Alternatives Before doing any of the following procedures, be sure of exactly what you want first. There are many options available but these are the cheapest. – Uses a chrome exhaust tip to replace First Base. –...
  • Page 103 Modifications: Intake Alternatives 3. Look at the air box; it's actually two pieces consisting of the square air box itself and a flat piece underneath that snaps down onto some tabs on top of the PCM. 4. Unsnap that flat piece and pull out the air box base. 5.

  • Page 104: Home Plate Removal

    Modifications: Intake Alternatives Home Plate Removal Tools: Elbow Options: › 1994 1LE F-car Duct 25147210 for unvented opti- spark › 1995 1LE F-car Duct 25147187 for vented opti- spark Home plate air baffle. Procedure: 1. Remove the two nuts on top of the home plate. 2.
  • Page 105 Modifications: Intake Alternatives Materials: Another example of the Sewer Pipe Mod. Most of the materials can be purchased at your local home improvement store, Home Depot, Lowe’s, ACE Hardware, etc. for about $8, with exception of the undercoating. The undercoating can be purchased at an auto parts store for about $2.

  • Page 106: Swiss Cheese Air Box

    Modifications: Intake Alternatives In this example, thick black undercoating spray was used. The look is almost factory. Mask off the ends to have a clean surface to clamp to when installed on the car. The undercoating also should protect against heat and be water resistant.

  • Page 107: Z28 Cluster Swap

    Modifications: Z28 Cluster Swap Z28 Cluster Swap The general purpose of this modification is to update the instrument cluster used in 94-95 Impala SS's, and 94-96 Caprice's. This modification is not easy, and requires extensive work and time to make it fit and look factory.
  • Page 108 Modifications: Z28 Cluster Swap 4. Optional, but suggested. Drop the steering column. This helps get the clusters in and out several times. 5. Next you’ll need to cut some of the dash supports away. See pictures. To do this work slowly and check often to be sure that you aren’t cutting too much away.
  • Page 109 Modifications: Z28 Cluster Swap 10. You may also need to create simple brackets once the trimming is finished. (Arrows) Brackets made from thin metal supports, like the ones used to support the rear of a radio, work nicely to fine tune mounting without removing factory connectors.
  • Page 110 eneral Information...

  • Page 111: General Information

    General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) ABITS (Opti-Spark) The purpose of this document is to provide very good diagnostic details with screen-shots, documenting each situation. Author takes NO CREDIT for the information provided, all that was done was to cull it down to detailed text and screen shots taken from the original video (http://tinyurl.com/6cfcpnr) ›...
  • Page 112 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The distributor shaft is driven by the camshaft. SSHandbook...
  • Page 113 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) A pin in the camshaft sprocket engages a slot in the distributor. This is known as Pin Drive is a more robust design than spline drive distributors. SSHandbook...
  • Page 114 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) A Pin Drive unit can be identified by the Forced Air Ventilation System SSHandbook...
  • Page 115 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Inside the ABITS there’s a rotor with a wide spark edge segment, making for a long life and reduced radio interferrence. SSHandbook...
  • Page 116 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Underneath the rotor and protection shield lie the heart of the ABITS. Bolted to the pickup assembly is optical sensor. The Optical sensor consists of two Photo LED diode pairs SSHandbook...
  • Page 117 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The Optical sensor is mounted so a two-track signal is between the LED and the Photo Diode The Signal disc is connected to the distributor shaft and turns with the camshaft. The PCM sends two 5Volt reference signals to the optical sensor as the signal disc turns the two rows of slots on the signal disc pass beteeen the LED photo diode pair this results in two pulsing signals.
  • Page 118 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The outer ring of the signal disc contains 360 slots, which provide 720 tiny edges for the PCM. This is known as the high resoultion signal. The inner ring of the disc has 8 slots, each of which have a leading edge 45 cam degrees away from the next slot.
  • Page 119 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) These leading edges mark TDC for each cylinder. The slots are different sizes, enabeling the PCM to identify specific cylinders. The PCM does this by counting the high resolution signal as the low resolution slots pass the optical sensor.
  • Page 120 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Using inputs from the low resolution signal Including ECT, MAP, KSs and battery voltage the PCM calculated coil dwell and spark advance. From a low resolution signal going high the PCM starts counting high resolution signals to the beginning of coil dwell and spark advance.
  • Page 121 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The PCM then generates an electronic spark timing, for the ignition control outout, for the ignition control driver module. The ignition control driver module turns on the primary current to the ignition coil when the ignition control voltage goes approximately 4Volts. When the PCM counts enough high resolution edges to reach the calculated spark advance it terminates the ignition control signal, and the ignition module turns off primary voltage to the coil.
  • Page 122 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) SSHandbook...
  • Page 123 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) While the Ignition control module is smaller than an HE distributor module, it is still important when installing a new module to This helps the module disappate heat. Without the grease the module can over heat and that can lead to failure. SSHandbook...
  • Page 124 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The ABITS distributor cap intruduces secondary towers on the distributor cap conductive traces connect to the spark plug by non radial paths using conductive ink. The ink traces are then encapsulated with epoxy. This routing allows 4 plugs wires on each side without causing crossfire problems. Proper ventilation is necessarry to prevent moisture buildup corrosive gasses formed by the high voltage arc.
  • Page 125 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Ozone is heavier than air so it settles on the bottom of the distributor. And when it forms noitrogen and moisture in the air it forms Nitric Acid. This can create conductive paths, and cause misfires and cross fires. The corrosive problem was solved when the vent holes were moved to the bottom of the ABITS.
  • Page 126 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The ventilation is further improved on the RoadMaster design with a forced ventilation system has a fresh air system and a vacuum line. The fresh air inlet runs from the distributor to the air inlet duct located just after the MAF sensor. By plugging into the line just after the MAF the clean filtered air is accounted for by the PCM and doesn’t affect fuel mixture.
  • Page 127 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Just up from the orifice tube is a check valve. The blue side of the orifice tube faces the intake manifold. Just up from the orifice tube is a check valve. The check valve does not allow air to reurn to the distriubutor. SSHandbook...
  • Page 128 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) An inoperative ventilation line is a cause for misfire. If the fresh air inlet line becomes pinched or plugged for any reason, it will draw vacuum on the distributor. As the vacuum is created inside the distributor, the dielectric properties inside will go down, and as that happens, spark that would normally travel from the center of the distributor cap find it much easier to go to the fastening screws on the rotor, which is a goes to GND, causing a misfire..
  • Page 129 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Other problems may result if the air inlet line is plugged. In some cases engine vacuum is strong engough to collaps the cap until it contacts the rotor. There’s enough vacuum to actually bend the distributor cap SSHandbook...
  • Page 130 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Any tips on checking the ventilation system? Yes, but first let’s start the car. 1. Unplug the air inlet of the distributor, and put your finger over it checking for a slight vacuum (Don’t forget to plug the hole in the snorkel at this time). Checking with a vacuum gauge (Mity-Vac or equivalent), Remove the air inlet from the snorkle and hook a vacuum gauge up tho the inlet line.
  • Page 131 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The harness is serviced as an assembly ONLY. Upper ventilation is essential to good ABITS operation. Fouled Plug vent systems may lead to: Fouled plugs & Misfires A misfire may be caused by a ventilation system problem. The causes of NO spark &...
  • Page 132 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) 16= Low Resolution If 720 high resolution signals are seen by the PCM without a low resolution signal) • (If the camshaft turns 1 complete revolution & the ABITS doesn’t provide high resolution signal for piston location, a code 16 is set. •...
  • Page 133 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) If PCM doesn’t get Hi-resolution signal for 9 consecutive low resolution signals. 1. An open or shorted or grounded high resolution wire or open terminal. 2. A failed optical sensor diode. 3. Failed PCM A code doesn’t set when both optical diodes fail, but then the engine won’t start either. SSHandbook...
  • Page 134 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) SSHandbook...
  • Page 135 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) In If an open exists in the ignition control circuit. • The PCM looks for voltages above 4.5 volts on the ignition control line. • When engine speed is below 1,500 RPM, a code 41 sets if there is an open in the ignition control line (or if the ignition control line is shorted to voltage that is higher than 4.5 Volts) Code 41 also sets if there is also an open terminal in the ignition control line.
  • Page 136 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) If the Ignition control line is grounded The PCM considers the control line grounded. (Less than if voltge is less than 4 volts) A code 42 is most likely caused by a grounded ignition control wire. But it could also be cause by a failed ignition driver module, or a failed PCM.
  • Page 137 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) It provides an organized approach to engine diagosis Check for voltage with an ST-125 (25K to fire this is an excellent test when checking for a misfire The ignition system may be providing enough voltage to run the engine but not enough to fire the spark plugs under heavy load).
  • Page 138 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) This check is the first in determining if the PCM is providing a signal to the ignition coil driver module. If the PCM Isn’t providing a signal to the ignition coil driver module, the problem exists between the distributor and the PCM.
  • Page 139 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) The light should illuminate, and if it doesn’t there isn’t any power going to the optical sensor. The remaining test checks the various circuits individually. To see if the proper signals are being sent and received from both the distributor and PCM. If the light illuminated in the last test check for continuity between distributor connector D and Ground.
  • Page 140 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Voltage should be about 5 Volts. Repeat the measurement at distributor connector “B” (Checking the high resolution signal). Voltage should also be about 5 volts. In this way the ignition system check chart thoroughly tests each component of the ignition system. Many ignition system failures are intermittent in their early stages.
  • Page 141 General Information: ABITS (Opti-spark) Misfires are also due to a spark plug or secondary wire that is leaking voltage. If the engine misfires only under a load, mist the wires with a vegetable sprayer. Spark escaping from the secondary circuit can usually be seen under these conditions.

  • Page 142: Part Numbers

    General Information: Part Numbers Part Numbers Here is a list of part numbers some may find useful while doing routine maintenance on their LT1's. REMEMBER, these numbers are for reference, so VERIFY them before placing an order. 2503679 1 BAR MAP SENSOR 12343958 12-DISC CD CHANGER ONLY USED WITH CASSETTE PLAYER.
  • Page 143 General Information: Part Numbers 26018944 AXLE - 3.23 RELUCTOR B-BODY 26029418 AXLE - 3.42 GEARS FACTORY RING & PINION 26033578 AXLE - 3.42 GEARS PINION SEAL 26018945 AXLE - 3.42 RELUCTOR B-BODY 26018946 AXLE - 3.73 RELUCTOR B-BODY 26014585 AXLE - 4.10 GEARS MOTIVE GM MOT- 26016309 AXLE - 4.10 GEARS RING &...
  • Page 144 18039372 BRAKE - FRONT ROTOR (R) DURASTOP HP 18A1031 18027999 BRAKE - FRONT ROTOR DURASTOP #18A399 18021344 BRAKE - FRONT ROTOR IMPALA SS ACD 177-753 18021049 BRAKE - FRONT ROTOR NON-IMPALA SS ACD 177-754 18021515 BRAKE - PADS EMERGENCY BRAKE...
  • Page 145 General Information: Part Numbers 10260084 COIN HOLDER LEFT OF STEERING WHEEL EAG-CRS5700B3D CONNECTING RODS - STROKER EAGLE 5.7" 650G 12495071 CONNECTING RODS GM STOCK 5.7" - SET OF 8 22555614 CONSOLE HINGE 12531192 CONSOLE LID 10282773 CONSOLE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY 10271069 CONSOLE SHIFTER PLATE TOP COVER - 96 15956547 CONTROL ARM - BUMP STOP NEW S10 ZQ8 DESIGN...
  • Page 146 CYLINDER HEAD STOCK LT4-COMPLETE 11-235-4103 CYLINDER HEAD STUDS ARP 10248200 DASH PAD (GRAY) 10268239 DASH PLATE CAPRICE SS 10250947 DASH PLATE IMPALA SS 24210915 DEEP TRANSMISSION PAN--NO DRAIN PLUG 12344998 DETAIL KIT IN A CASE WITH BOWTIE LOGO 12346290 DEXCOOL GALLONS 10474278...
  • Page 147 General Information: Part Numbers 17113381 EGR - VALVE F-BODY 12337972 EGR & EGR BLOCK-OFF PLATE GASKET AC #219-21 12129481 ELECTRICAL RECALL PARTS BUSBAR CAVITY 12146182 ELECTRICAL RECALL PARTS BUSBARCAVITY 12146183 ELECTRICAL RECALL PARTS CENTER STUD 11516161 ELECTRICAL RECALL PARTS NUT&STUD ASSEMBLY 12161130 ELECTRICAL RECALL PARTS STUD ASSEMBLY 12344614...
  • Page 148 General Information: Part Numbers 12522388 FENDER LINER LEFT FRONT 12522387 FENDER LINER RIGHT FRONT 12501860 FENDER RIGHT FRONT 14088765 FLYWHEEL 25121978 FUEL - FILTER 25121293 FUEL - FILTER AC #GF578 17124248 FUEL - INJECTOR 93-96 17113544 FUEL - INJECTOR O-RING SEAL KIT AC #217-1379 12048089 FUEL - LINE RETAINERS ON SIDE OF T/B 12371178...
  • Page 149 General Information: Part Numbers 10161998 HEADLIGHT - OPENING FILLER RIGHT 6294068 HEADLIGHT - TERMINAL EXPORT T84 CAPSULE 10279131 HEADLINER 52469251 HEATER CORE 10256544 HEATER CORE HOSE IN/OUT ASSEMBLY SEO GREEN 10164972 HEATER DISTRIBUTOR REAR FLOOR DUCTS 10164975 HEATER OUTLET LH REAR FLOOR DUCTS 10164974 HEATER OUTLET RH REAR FLOOR DUCTS 20030401...
  • Page 150 General Information: Part Numbers 12499735 KEYLESS ENTRY RECEIVER 15725423 KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER 94-95 16245100 KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER 96-02 16214671 KNOCK MODULE - LT1 CORVETTE 16217700 KNOCK MODULE - LT1 F-BODY OBD-I 16214661 KNOCK MODULE - LT1 F-BODY OBD-II 16214681 KNOCK MODULE - LT4 CORVETTE 16188309 KNOCK MODULE 94/95 SS 16214691...
  • Page 151 General Information: Part Numbers 12495492 LT4 - VALVE RETAINER SET OF 16 12551483 LT4 - VALVE SPRING 12495494 LT4 - VALVE SPRING MAX .525" LIFT - SET OF 16 24503856 LT4 - VALVE STEM KEY PACK OF 10 12337955 LUG NUTS SET OF 5 12529241 MAF SENSOR - EXTENSION CABLE 16137039...
  • Page 152 General Information: Part Numbers 12554955 OIL - FILL CAP LT4 - MOBIL 1 10229162 OIL - FILL CAP STEEL VALVE COVERS 12558300 OIL - FILL CAP VALVE COVER MAGNESIUM 10108694 OIL - FILL CAP VETT PLASTIC VALVE COVER 10236268 OIL - FILL STICKER LT4 - MOBIL 1 25322836 OIL - FILTER AC #PF52 - ULTRAGUARD GOLD 12551589...
  • Page 153 SIDE SCRIPT CAPRICE SS - BLACK 10267039 SIDE SCRIPT CAPRICE SS - DCM 10267038 SIDE SCRIPT CAPRICE SS - DGGM 10248742 SIDE SCRIPT IMPALA SS BLACK 10262809 SIDE SCRIPT IMPALA SS DCM 10262808 SIDE SCRIPT IMPALA SS DGGM 25166821 SPARK PLUG...
  • Page 154 General Information: Part Numbers 22076526 SPRINGS 1995 REAR - 27.0 N/MM RX 22132375 SPRINGS 1995 REAR - STOCK 22078017 SPRINGS HIGHEST LOAD RATE-95 FRONT 10465143 STARTER 10465293 STARTER 10455709 STARTER--GEAR REDUCTION, LIGHTWEIGHT, FROM 92-96 LT1 CORVETTE 26001594 STEERING - CONNECTION SEAL PACK OF 10 11509363 STEERING - COOLER BOLT 2091638...
  • Page 155 General Information: Part Numbers 10105379 THROTTLE BODY - GASKET 48MM 17113178 THROTTLE BODY - GASKET KIT COMPLETE 17113074 THROTTLE BODY - GASKETS TOP & BOT - AC #40-743 17113099 THROTTLE BODY - IAC VALVE 94-95 - AC #217-429 17113188 THROTTLE BODY - IAC VALVE 96 - AC #217-433 17106682 THROTTLE BODY - TPS SENSOR 93 W/SCREWS 17106680...
  • Page 156 General Information: Part Numbers 5976558 TURN SIGNAL RIGHT FRONT 10220597 USE OVERDRIVE DURING… STICKER 12564852 VALVE - EXHAUST SEAL LT4 10212810 VALVE - INTAKE SEAL LT4 460483 VALVE - OIL SEAL LT1 INTAKE & EXHAUST 10212808 VALVE - SPRING CAP LT4 10212809 VALVE - SPRING SHIM LT4 - PACK OF 10 274288...
  • Page 157 General Information: Part Numbers 10242039 WOOD GRAIN DOOR BEZEL INSERT (RR) 10256065 WOOD GRAIN LOWER DASH PLATE 10240921 WOOD GRAIN SWITCH PANEL (DRIVER) 10240920 WOOD GRAIN SWITCH PANEL (PASS) 10237292 ZZ502 BLOCK (4-BOLT MBC) 12371171 ZZ502 CRATE MOTOR - UNASSEMBLED 502HP 12371204 ZZ502 ENGINE LONG BLOCK KIT 12496962...

  • Page 158: Specifications & Dimensions

    General Information: Specifications & Dimensions Specifications & Dimensions Exterior Dimensions Sedan Wagon Impala SS Wheelbase 115.9 115.9 115.9 Length (overall) 214.1 217.3 214.1 Width (overall) 77.5 79.6 77.5 Height (overall) 55.7 60.9 54.7 Tread - Front 61.8 62.1 62.3 Tread - Rear 62.3...

  • Page 159: Torque Specifications

    Torque Specifications Fastener Application Torque Value Wrench Size Thread/Pitch/Length (if appl.) Accelerator Cable Bracket Bolt 106 lb. in. 10mm M6 x 1 x 12 Camshaft Retainer Bolt 105 lb. in. T30 Torx 1/4"-20 x 1/2" Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 18 lb. ft. 1/2"...

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