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Ender 5 Plus R1 Enclosure Kit
Installation Manual 2.0
April 2022
Copyright 2021 3DUPfitters LLC
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Summary of Contents for 3DUpFitters Ender 5 Plus R1 Enclosure Kit

  • Page 1 ¯ Ender 5 Plus R1 Enclosure Kit Installation Manual 2.0 April 2022 Copyright 2021 3DUPfitters LLC...
  • Page 2 We forgot to put something on this page. Copyright 2021 3DUPfitters LLC...
  • Page 3: Before You Start

    You Really Do Want to Read the Directions Hey, we get it. You just got your new enclosure kit and want to start using it as fast as possible. How hard can assembling a few plastic panels possibly be? It’s not really that hard, assuming you’re following the directions, but try to use brute force and you’ll end up working your way through your vocabulary of swear words.
  • Page 4 Don’t Panic If You See This!
 
 If you can’t see through the plastic, please don’t panic! What you’re seeing is just the plastic or paper protective covering. When plastic sheets are manufactured they are covered by either a paper (brown colored) or plastic (white) covering to protect against scratches.
  • Page 5 Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But Were Afraid to Ask Screw Tool Needed Usage Relative Size 30-50mm Attach fan/filter, attach large Hex Cap 3mm Hex Wrench front latch mounts Head 12mm Hex 3mm Hex Wrench Connectors, hinges Cap Head 16mm Hex Knobs, small latch mounts on 3mm Hex Wrench...
  • Page 6 Identify Panels Before you assemble the kit, layout all of the panels and identify which panel corresponds to the front, left, right, back, and top. Although the panels are labeled, it’s easy to get them mixed up once the covering is removed, and rarely a panel can be mislabeled.
  • Page 7 PANEL PICTURE HEIGHT WIDTH LEFT 31” 28.5” BACK 31” 29.22” 28.8” 29.2” Copyright 2021 3DUPfitters LLC...
  • Page 8: The Front Panel

    Assemble Panels The front panels are made from thicker 1/4" acrylic to provide more structural rigidity where needed: the door. Do not try to bend the 1/4” acrylic! The remaining panels are all 1/8”. 1. The Front Panel
 Top Left Top Right Bottom Left Bottom Right...
  • Page 9 screws. See the photos below. The top of the connector should be flush with the acrylic top. 
 There are also smaller connectors at the top and right sides when viewed from the front. The front should look like the picture to the right.
 
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  • Page 10: Left Side Panel

    Attach the doorknob by first inserting the square M4 nut into the slot. Use a 16mm cap head screw to attach the door. Now that the latches are mounted, it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate comes with a squishy adhesive covering the exact size of the plate.
  • Page 11: Back Panel

    3. Back Panel The back of the enclosure will be a little more complicated since it contains a door. Start by attaching the back panel to the front and left-side panels. The four corner connectors are mirror images of the front. The large hole is either for the fan, the option of an air filter (purchased separately), or completely covered up by printing a cover on Thingiverse.
  • Page 12: Top Panel

    4. Top Panel Use access through the doors to attach the top of the enclosure using M4 12mm screws. 5. Right Panel The right panel is a plain simple affair by this point. Just make sure to locate the bottom of the panel, which is the only side without a hole.
  • Page 13: Temperature Gauge

    7. Sealing Gaps Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to make sure that each panel is held tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount of play that allows you to make minor adjustments for the perfect fit. 1.
  • Page 14 9. Managing Enclosure Temperatures There's not much to a 3D printer enclosure. Although ours look fancy, functionally, they're not much different from putting a cardboard box over the printers since both designs are passively heated by the beds. How complicated can they be? This section will explain how they work and how to manage the temperatures to get quality prints while protecting your lungs.
  • Page 15 Passively heated enclosures depend entirely on the room temperature as a starting point. If you're trying to print ABS in an unheated garage in the winter, the temperature inside the enclosure will never get hot enough. The bed heater has only enough energy to increase temps from the baseline.
  • Page 16 that let out all of the volatile organic compounds coming off the hot end? The key is the negative pressure combined with the particles' minimal and light. As you can see, the fan keeps the air flowing in and the harmful particles floating into the vent or filter.
  • Page 17: Tips And Tricks

    Higher Temperature = Less Cold Air Pro Tip: measure your current temperatures before attempting to make any changes. We get support calls saying "my enclosure is too hot" or "too cold,” but they didn't measure the temperature. Without measurements, it's impossible to tell if a printing problem is temperature-related or not.

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