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The laser cutting process leaves a slight discoloration or "burn" on the laser cut edges of the parts. The builder
can if desired sand the edges lightly to remove this. If a light colored covering (like white) is used, the "burn"
marks will show through the covering if they're not removed.
Most parts will fall easily out of the laser cut sheets. If a part does not fall out, do not force it. Use a hobby
knife to trim along the balsa "tabs" that hold the part in until the part is freed.
The ribs, formers and small misc. parts are identified with engraved numbers. Major subgroups that are
grouped on a sheet together do not have individual engraved numbers on them. It is advisable to leave the
parts in the sheets until they're needed to make identification easier.
LoLo
A sporty parkflyer with an Old Timer flair!
Designed by: Tres Wright
Kitted by: Park Scale Models
http://www.ParkScaleModels.com/
Assembly Instructions
General Information
Page 1 of 16
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Summary of Contents for Park Scale Models LoLo
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Page 1: Assembly Instructions
LoLo A sporty parkflyer with an Old Timer flair! Designed by: Tres Wright Kitted by: Park Scale Models http://www.ParkScaleModels.com/ Assembly Instructions General Information The laser cutting process leaves a slight discoloration or “burn” on the laser cut edges of the parts. The builder can if desired sand the edges lightly to remove this. -
Page 2: Tools And Supplies
Where the instructions call for pinning parts, do not pin through the balsa. Place pins on either side of the parts to hold them in place. Abbreviations used in the instructions: Laser Cut Trailing Edge Leading Edge Tools and Supplies The following basic items will be required to complete this kit: Thin and thick C/A glue Sandpaper... - Page 3 Construction Steps ***See addendum at the end of the instructions for changes to the assembly of the wing and the brushless motor mount. Follow instructions except when modified by addendum.*** Remove all ribs, trailing edges (TE), leading edges (LE) and spar material from the laser cut (LC) sheets.
- Page 4 Now build the right wing half. Note that the parts for each wing half are identical, take care not to build two of the same side wing halves! Insert ribs R2 through R6 onto the wing spar and trailing edge. Insert the leading edge into the slots at the front of the ribs.
- Page 5 The wing is now complete. There are two holes in the trailing edge and a hole in the center of the leading edge for dowels. These will be installed later after the wing is covered. Build the horizontal stab and elevator: Remove all parts from the sheet labeled “Elevator/ Stab”.
- Page 6 Remove the rudder from the plan and sand all edges to a rounded profile. The rudder will be hinged to the vertical stabilizer pieces by taping it into place after the parts are covered. In order to achieve proper surface movement, the mating edges must be sanded to a bevel shape as shown on the drawing (refer to the Control Surface Detail).
- Page 7 Build the right fuselage side (note that the parts for each side are identical, take care to build opposite sides!): Glue the upper fuselage section to the lower section. The parts notch together. Glue the upper doubler section to the lower section. The parts notch together. Glue the doubler to the inside section of the fuselage, make sure all sides are aligned properly.
- Page 8 Insert former F6 into place; check fuselage alignment and glue into place. Install tail support M3 on top of fuselage sides (in notches) and flush with the sides and glue. Install the rear stringer support M4 on the top of the fuselage near the tail in the location shown on the plan (the rear of M4 aligns with the front of M3).
- Page 9 Cut 2 stringers for the bottom of the fuselage (running front to back from F4 to the tip of the tail) from the 1/8” x 1/8” material and glue into place. Glue these stringers to the fuselage sides in between the formers for added support. There should be a gap between the stringers at the tip of the tail, this is needed to clear the vertical stabilizer which will be installed after covering.
- Page 10 Glue former F2A to the rear of former F2 (the front of F2 has the word “front” laser cut into it). Line up the slots leaving a 1/16” space between the halves of F2A for the landing gear wire to pass through.
- Page 11 do not glue the sleeves where they pass through the fuselage slots in the rear as it can cause control binding. Covering the Airframe *The airframe is now ready to cover! SoLite (otherwise known as Nelson LiteFilm) is recommended because it is lightweight and it doesn’t require much heat to shrink it tight. However, practically any covering can be used with added weight being the only concern.
- Page 12 Cover and hinge the tail parts: Cover the rudder, vertical stab pieces, elevator and horizontal stab. Examine how the tail pieces all fit together into the fuselage and do not cover the slot and tab areas as these will be glued together when the tail is installed.
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Page 13: Final Assembly
Landing gear installation (optional): LoLo flies nicely with no landing gear at all, but with the landing gear LoLo does beautiful rise- off-ground launches, touch-and-goes and pavement landings. Without the landing gear the airframe is more streamlined and as a result the plane thermals better. - Page 14 Installing servos and hooking up controls: First hook up the servos to the receiver and power it up to center the servo arms. The rudder servo goes on the left, the elevator servo on the right. The servos must be located as shown on the plan to ensure that the control wires make a straight run from the servo arms all the way to the tail through the sleeves.
- Page 15 Final controls setup: LoLo does not need extreme throws to fly well. I personally prefer 5/8” throw each way on rudder and elevator both, with no expo. LoLo is nicely aerobatic on these throws, but still easily controlled. I would suggest that initially you set those throws for high rates and set the low rates at 75% of that.
- Page 16 We hope you enjoy your LoLo! Last revised: 01-04-07 Page 16 of 16...