CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ..............WHAT TO DO WHEN .................... THREADING OF MACHINE .................. SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER ..................TOP COVER ..................BASE PLATE..................BED COVER ..................BELT COVER ..................FREE ARM COVER ................FRONT COVER ..................REAR PANEL ..................MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..................
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. SKIPPING 1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY. STITCHES PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. CHANGE THENEEDLE. 3. INCORRECTLY THREADED RETHREAD.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 CONDITION HOW TO FIX CAUSE REFERENCE STARTWITH MEDIUMSPEED. 3. BREAKING 1, INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS UPPER TOO FAST. THREAD 2. THREAD PATH IS USE THE PROPER THREAD INCORRECT. PATH. 3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL. REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. BACKLASH BETWEEN 6. NOISY SEE MECHANICAL P.27 OPERATION SHUTTLEHOOKGEARAND ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH LOWER SHAFTGEAR ISTOO (LOWER SHAFT GEAR)." GREAT. 2. LOWERSHAFT GEARIS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS. LOOSE. &INAPPROPRIATE BELT SEE MECHANICAL P.43 TENSION.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 THREADING OF MACHINE THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS. DOTTED LINES SHOW THE PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS AND IS THEN PULLED TIGHT. RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING HANDWHEEL...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVETHE SETSCREWS (B). TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF. TOP COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVE SETSCREWS (B) AND (C). TAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 SERVICE ACCESS BASE PLATE REMOVE THE FOUR SETSCREWS (A). REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (B). BED COVER REMOVE THE TWO SETSCREWS (D). REMOVE THE BED COVER (E). * WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SET THE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFT POSITION.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 SERVICE ACCESS BELT COVER BELT COVER PULL OUT THE STITCH SELECTOR. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A) AND REMOVE SETSCREW (B). PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF BELT COVER tN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW, AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF, AND THEN REMOVE THE BELT COVER.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER (oJ .-." _- " <_ OPEN THE FACE COVER. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), AND THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8). REMOVE SETSCREWS (A) AND (B). LOOSEN SETSCREWS (C) AND (D), THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (E). UNHOOK THE FRONT COVER FROM THE LATCH (F) OF THE REAR COVER.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 SERVICE ACCESS REAR PANEL (D) O,-° i- PRESSER FC_ T LEVER TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM CO VER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER REAR PANEL UNIT ""a= OPEN THE FACE COVER. REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT (SEE P.6), THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8) AND THE FRONT COVER (SEE P.9).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK: SET THE TENSION DIAL AT "4", AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. PASS THE THREAD (A) BETWEEN THE DISCS, AND DRAW THE THREAD (A) DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG. 1. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT, AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85. 1 6231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B). THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C) SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24"). * IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: (THE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING 2 (0.08") TO 3MM (0.12") ABOVE NEEDLE PLATE.) ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL AT" 0 ", AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT TURN THE HANDWHEEL BY HAND. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO THE SIDE AT THIS SE'I-FING. _SELECTED PATI'ERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6). LOOSEN SETSCREW (A). MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU. RETIGHTEN SETSCREW (A) SECURELY.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO" 0 "AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION. DROP THE FEED DOGS. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE, AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER, AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D). MOVE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER (E) IN EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B, AND A TO C, BECOME EQUAL. TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D) SECURELY.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 386. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT-- -- --, THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT STRETCH STITCH, AND THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTER AT _91. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE CAP (F). IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH (B) IS SHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A), TURN THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW (E) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C). IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH (B) IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT "4", AND RAISETHE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT, AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE (#68496) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. TURN THE HANDWHEEL, AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BED COVER. LOOSEN THE NUT ( A ) AND THE SETSCREW ( B ). TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW ( C ) IN THE DIRECTION OF ( D ) WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS LOW, OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS HIGH.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETrlNG: SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT c_, AND THE ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT "6.5." PREPARATION: REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSER FOOT, NEEDLE PLATE (A) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B). INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68497 (C) ONTO THE HOOK.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. LOOSEN THE HEXAGONALSOCKET SCREW ( M ) ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER ( L ). MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) UP OR DOWN, TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR (F) SO THAT THE FACE OF FINGER (G) HITS THE SIDE OF PIN ( H ), AND THE END OF PIN ( I ) TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE (K).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT c_, AND THE ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT "6.5." PREPARATION: REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSER FOOT, NEEDLE PLATE (A) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B). INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68497 ( C ) SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE GAUGE FITS INTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHU'I-I'LE TIMING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: 1. REMOVE THE BED COVER (SEE P.7). 2. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES THE LOWEST POSITION. 3. LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS (G) AND (H). 4.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT _ . REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). TURN THE HANDWHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION, THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TEST PIN (A) AND THE SHARP END (B) OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN +0.05 (0.002") AND - 0.10 MM (-0,004").
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH ( LOWER SHAFT GEAR ) TO CHECK: REMOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER. TURN THE HANDWHEEL SLOWLY TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE SHUFFLE HOOK (A) IS BETWEEN BOTH ENDS (B) OF THE FEED DOG. ROTATE THE HOOK RACE CLOCK3NISE AND COUNTER CLOCKWISE BY HAND, AND CHECK THE PLAY.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK: SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCH SELECTOR ....U STITCH LENGTH CONTROL .. BLUE ZONE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL .,... 6.5 A'I-I'ACH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT. SEW A BUTFONHOLE, AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF THE BUTTONHOLE.
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SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTFONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BED COVER. (SEE P.7) LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (A). IF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BUTFONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE, TURN THE RING (B) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C).
SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385, 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION TO CHECK: SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCH SELECTOR ... STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 6.5 TURN THE HANDWHEELTOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER POSITION. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO"0".
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE TOP COVER. (SEE P.6) TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE. LOOSEN SETSCREWS (A) AND (B). TIGHTEN SETSCREW (A) SLIGHTLY.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH SELECTOR TO _ , AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL TO "0." PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. CHECK IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8). SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT _, AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT" 0 ". PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD, TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (A).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385, 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BASIC NEEDLE POSITION * IF THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG AND IN STRAIGHT SEWING ARE NOT THE SAME, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8). SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIG ZAG, THEN SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN STRAIGHT SEWING.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (1) * A BUTTONHOLE THAT HAS BEEN SEWN WITH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WILL BE 3MM (0.12") LONGER THAN THE ACTUAL BU'I-rON, THIS LENGTH CAN BE ADJUSTED AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: LOWER THE FEED DOG AND ATTACH THE BH FOOT R, THEN LOWER THE PRESSER...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (2) * IF THE BAR TACK ON THE Bu'vrONHOLE OCCURS TOO EARLY, OR IF NO BAR TACK IS SEWN AT ALL, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8). (A) IF THE BARTACK IS SEWN TOO EARLY, TURN THE HEXAGONALSOCKET SCREW (E) IN DIRECTION (C).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION THE MACHINE WILL STOP AUTOMATICALLY WHEN BUTTONHOLE IS COMPLETED. IF THE MACHINE STOPS TOO EARLY OR TOO LATE, CORRECT IT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. LOOSEN THE SETSCREW (A).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE THREADER TO REPLACE: PRY OUT THE THREADER PLATE HOLDER (A) WITH A SCREWDRIVER WHILE PUSHING AND HOLDING THE THREADER KNOB DOWN. ALIGN THE GROOVE ON THE NEW THREADER PLATE HOLDER (A) WITH THE PIN (B) ON THE THREADER SHAFT.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385, 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT THE HEIGHT OF THE NEEDLE POINT SHOULD BE 10-14 MM ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATEWHEN THE MACHINE STOPS. IF NOT, CORRECT ITAS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: 1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE PAGE 6.) 2.
SEWING M ACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85. 1 6231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CIRCUIT BOARD B AND FUSE TO REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BOARD B 1. REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (SEE PAGE 7.). 2. REMOVE THE 3 SETSCREWS (A). REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOX COVER (B). 3.
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 REPLACEMENT OF TRANSFORMER TO REMOVE: 1. REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOARD COVER (SEE PAGE 39). 2. DISCONNECT THE TRANSFORMER CONNECTORS (A) FROM THE CIRCUIT BOARD B. 3. REMOVE THE 2 SETSCREWS (B) AND REMOVE THE TRNSFORMER (C).
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK: IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT MAY CAUSE THE BELT TO MAKE NOISE. A TOO TIGHT BELT TENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND WILL OVERLOAD THE MOTOR;...
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 16231400 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING, BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING THE MACHINES. OIL: USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B, C, D, E, F & G) INDICATED BY THE BLACK ARROWS.